Welcome back! I hope you had fun making the first block in the 2026 BOW series. If you missed last week’s introductory post, you can find it here. All the patterns for these nine blocks will be free and I will share stitching tips and, sometimes, some historical information as we go.
Like I said last week, these blocks will give you the opportunity to play in your fabric stash. You can make one of each block or as many as you want. I will be making the blocks with a light background and a dark background for some fun. You can choose either or you can make both variations like me. So let’s get started on the second week of this sew along.
Block of the Week – Block 2
This block builds upon the star block from last week and adds in some more flying geese to make the radiating design. I call the block “star burst”. Here it is:

Find the free instructions for the block here: 2026 BOW Block 2.
Now here is the same block with a black background:

This block with the reds and greens would make a really striking Christmas quilt. Hmmm cool idea?
Tips for Making Flying Geese
Making these involves working with bias seams. They need to be handled with a bit more care, especially if you have to rip out seams. That’s why it’s good to sew these carefully so you do not have to do that.
This is one type of unit that is constructed using the stitch & flip technique. Here’s a simple review on how to make a flying geese unit along with photos. If you are new to quilting, this will help you make them for this block.
For my example, I am using 2 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ and a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ rectangle, the photos below show the steps:



The above photos show the first steps: Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the two squares. When you lay one of the squares face down on the rectangle, pin to keep the square from shifting. Once you sew along the line, the next steps (photos below) are very important:



On the left I am folding over the square, after stitching the seam, to make sure its edge matches up with the edge of the rectangle. The center photo shows that when I measure the unit, it still measures 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ (the measurement of the rectangle) . I can then trim off the excess fabric in the seam allowance (last photo). That is a key in stitch & flip units, always fold over and measure the unit after stitching before trimming off any excess fabric.
Repeat the above steps on the other side of the rectangle, and you will have a flying geese unit.
Keeping sharp points when joining geese units to other blocks or units depends on accurate seams allowance. Here is an example of what can happen to your points:

If you only have a few cut-off points in a large quilt, they may not be noticeable to anyone but you. But if it’s a smaller quilt, like a wall hanging or table runner, it may be easier to notice. So, here’s some tips to practice getting sharp, crisp points.
Tip #1: When you are joining a piece with points to a plain piece, stitch with them together with the unit with the points on top. This way you can make sure your stitching doesn’t cut off that point.

Tip #2: If you measure the seams as you go when you are piecing flying geese to make sure the top of the point is 1/4″ from the edge of the unit, it saves you from headaches later.

Tip #3: As you are stitching the piece with the point to another unit, watch the point to make sure the stitching line passes just above the point. This guarantees the point will not be cut off when you press open the unit.
See the photos below and where my pointer is and in the last two you will see how the finished seam passes above the point and how the point is not cut off when the unit is flipped over and pressed open (photo on right):




Tip #4: Finally, joining two points so they’re not cut off. First, when pinning the units together, you want to start by lining up the points of each unit and placing your first pin there.
Here are my steps (photos below illustrate): I lay the units right sides together and then pull the top unit down to get the point lined up with the point of the unit below. I slowly inch the top piece back, eyeing the points the whole time to make sure they stay lined up. Then start by pinning at that point before pinning the rest of the unit.




Then you simply follow the stitching tips from above to keep your seam line above the point. When the unit is pressed open, the points line up. The first two photos below show the seam passing over the point on both sides.



A Little Flying Geese History
The exact origin of this design is unknown, but it is thought that it emerged in the early 19th century as early quilt makers drew inspiration from the seasonal V-formation of migrating geese flying across the sky.
There is legend that it was a symbol used in Underground Railroad quilts. The quilts were said to be hung outside, on a clothesline, of a home serving as a station as a road map to the next station. Many modern quilt historians debate the accuracy of this and treat it more as folklore.
No matter the origin, flying geese are fun to make and it’s a versatile design that helps create interesting blocks.
That’s all for this week. Enjoy making the block (or blocks) and come back next week for block 3!
Happy Quilting,
Deanne



Dear Deanne, I just want you to know I love your news letter and everything that you do for quilters! I could not do these patterns that you share so kindly from your heart for free. I am 75 and living off SS and it means the world to me that I get to make your beautiful quilts/blocks. Thank you so very much from the bottom of my heart.
Oh thank you! I am so glad you are getting some enjoyment from making them.
You’ll have a nice quilt at the end.
I always struggle with flying geese. Thanks for the squaring advise!! I’ll give it a try and see if I can do better.
You’re welcome!
I am excited to see this quilt come to life. I found some reproduction fabric I am sure will work nicely.
Thank you for all of your hard work to inspire your readers.
You’re welcome! Enjoy making the blocks. 🙂
Beautiful block! Thanks
You’re welcome!