Change Your Perspective… On Point Settings

When quilters get ready to join blocks into a quilt top, the most common setting is a straight block row setting, whether the blocks are stitched together or there is sashing added. What if you wanted to change your perspective, namely, how the block and quilt are viewed? Then it’s time to challenge yourself and piece your quilt blocks on point. That’s what I will be covering this week. Let’s get started.

The Blocks

I like to choose blocks that look one way when set straight and look completely different when set on-point. Here’s an example with a block I am currently working with:

When set straight, the block is looks like a standard log cabin block with a star unit set in. When it is rotated so it will fit into an on-point setting, the star is a bit more of the focal point. I call this block rising star.

Here’s another block I have worked with in the past:

The “diamond” element in the center of this star block turns into a square when the block is turned on-point. 

This is not to say you can’t use basic blocks on-point, but I think it’s fun to bring out a different look when changing the setting.

On-Point Examples I have Made

The following are a few of the quilts I have made with on-point settings to show the different ways you can set these. First up is Constellations:

These blocks are set on point with no other blocks separating them. There’s also no sashing.

This next quilt has two different blocks, both on-point. I often do this to create a secondary design. In Butterfly Garden, I mixed the pieced butterfly blocks with half-square triangle square blocks to create a stripe design that shows up on the completed quilt.

Finally, I made a quilt with blocks on-point with a sashing in between to create a the stars between the block rows. Here’s Star Trail:

On-Point Setting Steps

So now on to the “how to” of creating an on-point set quilt. The shared element in on-point set quilts is setting triangles. Those are the side triangles and corner triangles that makes your on-point block quilt square or rectangular. The other difference an on-point quilt has from straight block set quilts is that the rows are assembled on the diagonal.

Setting Triangles

Setting triangles are cut from squares. There are side triangles and end triangles. Below is a diagram that shows these setting triangles and where they go on a quilt top:

When I write my patterns for on-point set quilt tops, I do the calculations for these triangles for you and tell you what size squares you need to cut them from. However, if you are making a pattern with a straight setting but decide you want to do an on point setting, you will need the formulas to do those calculations yourself. So here they are:

Side Triangles –  You take the finished size of your piece quilt block x 1.414, then add 1 1/4″ to that number. For example, if the finished size of your block is 6″, here is how the formula works:

6″ x 1.414 = 8.48″ (round this up to the nearest 1/8″ to 8.5″)
8.5″ + 1 1/4″ = 9 3/4″ square needed.

This square is then cut diagonally twice for 4 quarter-square triangles. For the above quilt in the diagram, there are 12 side triangles, so you will need three 9 3/4″ squares:

End Triangles –  You take the finished size of your block/(divided by) 1.414, then add 7/8″ to that number. Example:

6/1.414 = 4.243 (round this up to the nearest 1/8″ to 4.25)
4.25 + 7/8 = 5 1/8″ square needed.

 This square is then cut diagonally once for 2 half-square triangles. You only need 4 end triangles, so you will need two 5 1/8″ squares:

Block Lay Out and Stitching

Now that you have the setting triangles cut, it’s time to lay out the blocks and the triangles so the quilt top can be stitched together. A large floor space or design wall comes in handy here. Here’s a diagram on laying out the blocks and triangles:

If you look at the top part of the diagram above, you will see how you lay out the blocks and the setting triangles. The bottom part of the diagram shows rows stitch together on the diagonal instead of in straight across rows or columns.

I generally start from top left and work my way down until all the diagonal rows are assembled. The top left and bottom right will have a unique piecing method that I will show in the following photos. I call these the “end caps”, since the block is on the end and is surrounded by two side triangles and one end triangle.

Follow these next steps to successfully piece this section of the quilt top.

Step 1: Line up the 90° angle of the left setting triangle with the corner of the quilt block and pin in place. there will be a small “tail” of the triangle overlapping the block (last photo below).

Step 2: Stitch with a 1/4″ seam. Then repeat on the opposite side of the quilt block with the other setting triangle. Press these sides open:

Step 3: Line up the end triangle with the center of the unit assembled above. When you flip it on top to pin in place, you can use a ruler to make sure the point of the end triangle is right in the center of the quilt block.

Pin in place, stitch and press open. Once again, there will be overlapping “tails” from the end triangle:

Here’s what the end cap looks like all stitched and pressed. You can now trim off the “tails” if you want.

Step 4: Now that the end caps are finished, it’s time to join all the blocks and triangles into the diagonal rows. The blocks will be joined just like in regular quilt tops then add the triangles to the ends of the rows. Notice all the “tails”.

Step 5: Now it’s time to join those rows into the quilt top!  Once again, there will be overlapping “tails” from all the triangle points. Be sure to line up the seams of the blocks when joining your rows.

Lining up the seams is a very important step to make sure your quilt top is not “wonky” when you are done piecing it. I start by pinning the seams to line up the quilt blocks in the rows and move out from there, carefully pin the setting triangles. Like when piecing the rows, there will be tails overlapping.

Here is the finished top:

That’s it! Recently, I made a video tutorial on piecing an on-point quilt including the steps I presented above. I think this will help those of you who like to see something demonstrated rather than just reading about it.

Let me know what you think in the comments or if you have any questions. I will enter you into a drawing for my pattern, Star Trail (shown above). The drawing will be on Monday, September 22nd. **We have a winner! Congrats, Mary W!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne