I have always loved the look of a quilt with blocks set on point. Early in my quilting days, I was a bit afraid to tackle one of my own. Now, I do them often. Here’s a few of mine that I have designed:
Aren’t they unique? Setting a block on point can make a quilt look completely different! I have a few tips to help your on point quilt go together smoothly.
Calculating Setting Triangles
Unlike quilts made from blocks that are set normally, on point block quilts need what are called setting triangles. Setting triangles are cut from squares. There are side triangles and end triangles.
If you purchase a pattern for an on point quilt, the designer has already done the calculations and has provided you with the size pieces you need to cut. If you are creating your own on point quilt, you will need to figure out what size squares you need to have to make your setting triangles. You calculate the size of the square needed using the finished size of your block. The following are the formulas:
Side Triangles – Finished size of your block x 1.414, then add 1 1/4″ to that number. For example, if your finished block is 6″, here is how the formula works:
6″ x 1.414 = 8.48″ (round this up to the nearest 1/8″ to 8.5″)
8.5″ + 1 1/4″ = 9 3/4″ square needed.
This square is then cut diagonally twice for 4 triangles. For the above quilt, there are 12 side triangles, so you will need three 9 3/4″ squares.
End Triangles – Finished size of your block/(divided by) 1.414, then add 7/8″ to that number. Example:
6/1.414 = 4.243 (round this up to the nearest 1/8″ to 4.25
4.25 + 7/8 = 5 1/8″ square needed.
This square is then cut diagonally once for 2 triangles. You need 4 end triangles, so you will need two 5 1/8″ squares.Laying Out and Stitching Blocks
Unlike a quilt with straight set blocks, an on point quilt is assembled in diagonal rows. First, assemble the ends, then assemble the diagonal rows and then join the rows. The following diagrams and photos will demonstrate these steps.
Here is a diagram and a photo of how rows are laid out:
I always start from top left and work my way down until all the rows are assembled. The top left and bottom right will have a unique piecing method that I will show in the following photos. I call these the “end caps” since the block is on the end and is surrounded by two side triangles and one end triangle.
Step 1: Line up the 90° angle of the left setting triangle with the corner of the block and pin in place. there will be a small “tail” of the triangle overlapping the block.
Step 2: Stitch with a 1/4″ seam. Then repeat on the opposite side of the block with the other setting triangle. Press these sides open:
Step 3: Line up the end triangle with the center of the unit assembled above. When you flip it on top to pin in place, you can use a ruler to make sure the point of the end triangle is right in the center of the block.
Pin in place, stitch and press open. Once again, there will be overlapping “tails” from the end triangle:
Here’s what the end cap looks like all stitched and pressed. You can now trim off the “tails” if you want.
Step 4: Now that the end cap is finished, it’s time to join all the blocks and triangles into the diagonal rows. Notice all the “tails”.
Step 5: Now it’s time to join those rows into the quilt top! Once again, there will be overlapping “tails” from all the triangle points. Be sure to line up the seams of the blocks when joining your rows.
Here is the finished top. All ready for borders and quilting!
See? That wasn’t too hard! Now you can take any blocks and turn them into an on point quilt. Let me know if you have any questions. I’ll be happy to answer them if I can.