Quilt Binding – Tips and a Tutorial

Now that I have shared my favorite quilting tips with you last week, let’s move onto something more specific: binding. Binding is not a task I like, but it is of course necessary to finish my quilts. Whether you like to bind or not, hopefully my post will give you some tips when it’s time for you to bind your quilt.

The tips I will share are for stitching it to the front of the quilt top by machine and hand stitching it to the back. If you are looking for a fully machine attached binding, I would do an internet search for quilters who have tutorials on that. Someday I am going to try the full machine method, but since I myself have not done that yet, I don’t want to pretend to be an expert. So let’s get started!

TIPS

Plan Ahead

TIP #1 – Color: If you plan for your binding when you are planning and cutting out the quilt project, you will be ahead of the game. At this time you can decide if you want your binding to fade into the background, by matching it with the outer border fabric of the quilt, or for it to work as a frame for the finished quilt top. Below are two of my quilts to show these choices.

In Constellations, I chose the same color for the binding as the outer border. That way the focus is on the fun scrappy inner border instead of the binding. For Sun Catcher, I chose to have a contrasting binding that matched the color of the black print element of the blocks. This to me makes a frame for the entire quilt.

For my quilt, Crisscross Cabin Blooms below, I used the matching binding tip so the feature that people see when they look at this quilt is the appliqué in the border and are not distracted by the binding.

You can also use scrappy binding made from the leftover fabric from your project. It’s a fun way to use up the scraps and add some interest to your quilt. I’ve done this with several of my quilts including Star Dash below:

TIP #2 – Binding Type: The choices are single-fold binding or double-fold binding.

Single-fold binding consists of only a one layer of fabric pieced from strips, whether scrappy or not. The binding is laid right side down on the front of the quilt top, lined up with the raw edges, machine stitched and then turned to the back to hand stitch in place. 

Double-fold binding is a wider strip, usually 2 1/4 to 2 1/2″ wide, that is folded over in half and pressed before attaching it to the front of the quilt. When it is turned to the back to be stitched, there are two layers of fabric over the edge of the quilt. Obviously, double-fold binding is more durable. Since it is, I usually use double-fold on large quilts and table runners that may get used more than a wall hanging. 

The top strip is single-fold. The bottom is double-fold.  

TIP #3 – Fabric Needs: Finally, how much fabric do you need for your binding? It’s easy to figure out with some simple math. Using the formula below, you will be able to figure how many strips you need which will help you calculate how much fabric you need.

Here’s the formula:

1. First figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation:   60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
2. Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
3. Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65.  Round up to the next whole number, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
4. Now multiply the amount of the strips needed by the width of the strips. If I am making double-fold binding and use 2 1/4″ strips, here’s my formula: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I would use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

TIP #4 – Storing the Binding: I recommend that you cut and prepare your binding when cutting out the quilt project. That way, once the quilt has been sandwiched and quilted, the binding is ready.

So once the binding is made, here’s a few ideas on how to store it while you’re finishing the quilt. On the bottom left, I wrapped the binding onto an empty toilet paper tube and secured it. I used a pin but you can also use a rubber band. The photo on the right shows how I folded the binding and then secured it with a large clip. You can also secure this with a rubber band if you prefer.

Tips for Binding the Quilt Top

TIP #1: Prepare the Quilted Item. I recommend cutting away the excess batting and backing from the quilted quilt. Leave a scant 1/8″ (photos below) of the batting and backing. Since the binding is pinned to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as a guide, there will be batting and backing that extends out. I do this so when the binding is turned to the back, that scant 1/8″ serves to “stuff” the binding. 

Also, to achieve a full binding, I like to cut my binding strips for double-fold binding 2 1/4″ instead of 2 1/2″. If your binding is too wide when you fold it over to the back it will be empty at the top of the fold and that can make binding look flat.

TIP #2: Tip for Attaching the Binding. I like to start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. (left photo, below) I pin one side at a time for stitching. When I reach the corner while pinning, I measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. So when stitching this side, I know when I’m 1/4″ from the edge when I get to the pin. (right photo, below) This makes it easier to fold and turn the binding to start attaching it to the other side. It also helps to achieve a nice mitered corner when the binding is turned.

TIP #3: Binding Stitching. For double-fold binding, when stitching the first side, I start stitching about 1/2″ to 1″ from the beginning. (see photo below) This leaves a little “pocket” so I can tuck in the end of the binding when I get all the way around the quilt. Like I said above, I stop at the pin that marks 1/4″ from the edge to help make a nice mitered corner as I turn the binding to continue onto the next side. For single-fold binding, you can start stitching right at the beginning of the binding since you will not need to tuck the end.

TIP #4: Hand Stitching to the Back. I secure the binding in place with hair clips! I found that these worked great and we had a ton of them that my daughter abandoned at home when she went off to college. Great re-cycling tip here!

Here’s how I make the mitered corners when turning my binding. (photos below) When I get to the corner, I match up and pin where the two sides of the binding meet as shown in the first photo. Then I stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges. I then stitch up the diagonal “fold” created. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front.

Those are my favorite tips on binding from choosing the color, the type, and figuring the amount of fabric to steps on attaching it. Below you will find my tutorial video on binding. This covers making the binding and attaching it.

That’s it for this week. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a few things whether you are a beginner or an experienced quilter.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne