binding – Snuggles Quilts

The Finishing Touch – Binding

You’ve done all the work… cutting fabric, piecing quilt blocks, joining those blocks for a quilt top, and, finally, quilting it. Now what’s left? The binding. Ugh. I both love and hate this part. I love it because it means my quilt is almost done. And I hate it, because to me … it’s boring! Maybe your opinion is different, but I just don’t like this part of the quilting process.

So, I’m doing this post with tips on binding so the task can be handled quickly and smoothly. My tips are how to do binding by the traditional method, machine stitching it to the front of the quilt and then hand stitching it down on the back. There are machine binding techniques out there where the whole thing is done by machine, but I have not tried those yet so I can’t offer any tips there. Let’s get started!

TIPS

There are a few things to decide before you bind your quilt top. These are what I call my “plan ahead” tips. Here they are:

TIP #1 – Color: If you plan for your binding when you are planning and cutting out the quilt project, you will be ahead of the game. At this time you can decide if you want your binding to fade into the background, by matching it with the outer border fabric of the quilt, or for it to work as a frame for the finished quilt top. Below are two of my quilts to show these choices.

In Town Square on the left, I chose to cut the binding from the same fabric as the outer border so it blends in and doesn’t draw attention from the quilt center. For Star Baby on the right, I chose the green binding that serves to “frame” the design of the quilts.

For my quilt, Crisscross Cabin Blooms below, I used the matching binding tip so the feature that people see when they look at this quilt is the appliqué in the border and are not distracted by the binding.

You can also use scrappy binding made from the leftover fabric from your project. It’s a fun way to use up the scraps and add some interest to your quilt. I’ve done this with several of my quilts including Star Dash below:

TIP #2 – Binding Type: The choices are single-fold binding or double-fold binding.

Single-fold binding consists of only a one layer of fabric pieced from strips, whether scrappy or not. The binding is laid right side down on the front of the quilt top, lined up with the raw edges, machine stitched and then turned to the back to hand stitch in place.

Double-fold binding is a wider strip, usually 2 1/4 to 2 1/2″ wide, that is folded over in half and pressed before attaching it to the front of the quilt. When it is turned to the back to be stitched, there are two layers of fabric over the edge of the quilt. Obviously, double-fold binding is more durable. Since it is, I usually use double-fold on large quilts and table runners that may get used more than a wall hanging.

In the photo below, the top strip is single-fold. The bottom is double-fold.

TIP #3 – Fabric Needs: Finally, how much fabric do you need for your binding? It’s easy to figure out with some simple math. Using the formula below, you will be able to figure how many strips you need which will help you calculate how much fabric you need.

Here’s the formula:

First figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation: 60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65. Round up to the next whole number, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
Now multiply the amount of the strips needed by the width of the strips. If I am making double-fold binding and use 2 1/4″ strips, here’s my formula: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I would use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

TIP #4 – Storing the Binding: I recommend that you cut and prepare your binding when cutting out the quilt project. That way, once the quilt has been sandwiched and quilted, the binding is ready.

Once the binding is made, here’s a few ideas on how to store it while you’re finishing the quilt. On the bottom left, I wrapped the binding onto an empty toilet paper tube and secured it. I used a pin but you can also use a rubber band. The photo on the right shows how I folded the binding and then secured it with a large clip. You can also secure this with a rubber band if you prefer.

Tips for Binding the Quilt Top

TIP #1: Prepare the Quilted Item. I recommend cutting away the excess batting and backing from the quilted quilt. Leave a scant 1/8″ (photos below) of the batting and backing. Since the binding is pinned to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as a guide, there will be batting and backing that extends out. I do this so when the binding is turned to the back, that scant 1/8″ serves to “stuff” the binding.

Also, to achieve a full binding, I like to cut my binding strips for double-fold binding 2 1/4″ instead of 2 1/2″. If your binding is too wide when you fold it over to the back it will be empty at the top of the fold and that can make binding look flat.

TIP #2: Tip for Attaching the Binding. I like to start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. (left photo, below) I pin one side at a time for stitching. When I reach the corner while pinning, I measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. So when stitching this side, I stop stitching when I get to the pin. (right photo, below) This makes it easier to fold and turn the binding to start attaching it to the other side. It also helps to achieve a nice mitered corner when the binding is turned.

TIP #3: Binding Stitching. For double-fold binding, when stitching the first side, I start stitching about 1/2″ to 1″ from the beginning. (see photo below) This leaves a little “pocket” so I can tuck in the end of the binding when I get all the way around the quilt. Like I said above, I stop at the pin that marks 1/4″ from the edge to help make a nice mitered corner as I turn the binding to continue onto the next side. For single-fold binding, you can start stitching right at the beginning of the binding since you will not need to tuck the end.

TIP #4: Hand Stitching to the Back. I secure the binding in place with hair clips! I found that these worked great and we had a ton of them that my daughter abandoned at home when she went off to college (great re-cycling tip here). They’ve worked so well that quilting notion companies are now selling these as binding clips based on the hair clip design.

Here’s how I make the mitered corners when turning my binding. (photos below) When I get to the corner, I match up and pin where the two sides of the binding meet as shown in the first photo. Then I stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges. I then stitch up the diagonal “fold” created. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front.

That’s it for my favorite tips for binding your quilt. If you’re a beginner, I hope this helps you with your binding skills. If you are experienced, perhaps this is a little refresher. I’m happy to help either way! I did a mini video tutorial on binding a quilt for you visual learners. Hopefully my camera work isn’t too bad.

That’s it for this week. Feel free to ask any questions below. If you know of any tutorials on machine stitching binding on front and back, feel free to share in the comments in case other readers want to try it.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Quilt Binding – Tips and a Tutorial

Now that I have shared my favorite quilting tips with you last week, let’s move onto something more specific: binding. Binding is not a task I like, but it is of course necessary to finish my quilts. Whether you like to bind or not, hopefully my post will give you some tips when it’s time for you to bind your quilt.

The tips I will share are for stitching it to the front of the quilt top by machine and hand stitching it to the back. If you are looking for a fully machine attached binding, I would do an internet search for quilters who have tutorials on that. Someday I am going to try the full machine method, but since I myself have not done that yet, I don’t want to pretend to be an expert. So let’s get started!

TIPS

Plan Ahead

In Constellations, I chose the same color for the binding as the outer border. That way the focus is on the fun scrappy inner border instead of the binding. For Sun Catcher, I chose to have a contrasting binding that matched the color of the black print element of the blocks. This to me makes a frame for the entire quilt.

TIP #2 – Binding Type: The choices are single-fold binding or double-fold binding.

The top strip is single-fold. The bottom is double-fold.

Here’s the formula:

First figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation: 60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65. Round up to the next whole number, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
Now multiply the amount of the strips needed by the width of the strips. If I am making double-fold binding and use 2 1/4″ strips, here’s my formula: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I would use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

So once the binding is made, here’s a few ideas on how to store it while you’re finishing the quilt. On the bottom left, I wrapped the binding onto an empty toilet paper tube and secured it. I used a pin but you can also use a rubber band. The photo on the right shows how I folded the binding and then secured it with a large clip. You can also secure this with a rubber band if you prefer.

Tips for Binding the Quilt Top

TIP #2: Tip for Attaching the Binding. I like to start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. (left photo, below) I pin one side at a time for stitching. When I reach the corner while pinning, I measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. So when stitching this side, I know when I’m 1/4″ from the edge when I get to the pin. (right photo, below) This makes it easier to fold and turn the binding to start attaching it to the other side. It also helps to achieve a nice mitered corner when the binding is turned.

Those are my favorite tips on binding from choosing the color, the type, and figuring the amount of fabric to steps on attaching it. Below you will find my tutorial video on binding. This covers making the binding and attaching it.

That’s it for this week. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a few things whether you are a beginner or an experienced quilter.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

When the Quilting is Done

You have pieced the quilt and it’s been quilted, whether by hand or machine, so now what’s next? It’s time to think of the finishes. Binding, labeling, and a hanging sleeve. These are some things that tend to be afterthoughts when making your quilt, but you should include these in planning the project. These are all important parts of the quilt even if that’s not what someone pays attention to when they see it. I’ll cover these things in this week’s post and give you tips on adding them to your quilt. Let’s go!

Labeling

I confess… I’m guilty of skipping this step at times, especially if I am keeping the quilt for myself. But here’s why I think you should always label your quilts. So many quilts I look at in books say “quilt maker unknown”. I wonder who made the quilt? Who was it for? What was the occasion? You do not want that to happen to the quilts you make. They are part of your family history.

I inherited a few family quilts that did not have any labels on them. Luckily, I was able to get some information from a family member, who has since passed, and made labels for them. Now anyone in the family who inherits the quilt from me will know who made these quilts and the approximate date they were made. That’s great information to have.

In the years since I acquired those quilts, I have begun to label my quilts more. The labels can be as simple as your name and the date the quilt was made or it can be a detailed description.

Here’s one of my simple labels:

I used a pen made for fabric to write the quilt information directly on the backing. This is the easiest method. Be sure not to press hard with the pen so the ink bleeds to the front. And be sure you are using a pen that is safe for fabric.

I’ve also made labels that are more involved, like this label for my daughter’s high school graduation quilt using printable fabric:

I included her name, year she graduated and the activities she was involved in. If you don’t want to do that, you can perhaps include words to a poem or write your own tribute to the receiver of the quilt. You can find these fabric labels, that run through your home printer, sold at most quilt shops.

You can also just attach a fabric piece to the back of the quilt and then write on it with the fabric pen instead of using your printer. Here’s a tip to make those labels even more securely attached: sew it into the binding on two of the sides! Here is one I did:

Above left photo shows how the label, pinned in place on the lower corner of the quilt, is secured on the back as you machine stitch the binding on the front. The next photo shows the two sides secured by the binding so now all you have to do is hand stitch the other two sides and you’re done! You can do this with any piece of scrap fabric and make it into a label.

Hanging Sleeves

Adding a hanging sleeve (sometimes called a rod pocket) to the back of a wall hanging or larger quilt is the best way to easily display it. The sleeve also serves to hang the quilt smoothly and helps to avoid stressing any one side of the quilt. Once the sleeve is there, you can use about any item to hang your quilt like curtain rods, wire quilt hangers, and even yardsticks! Here’s some I have hanging:

The hanging sleeve can be partially attached like the label, by sewing one side of it while you attach the binding to the from of the quilt.

All you need to start is to cut a 2 1/2″ strip of fabric about 1 or 2″ shorter than the width of your quilt and hem it 1/4″ on each end.

Lay the prepared strip, right side up, on the back of the quilt aligning it with the top edge and pin in place (photo on left). Then proceed to pin and stitch the binding to the front. The top of the sleeve will be stitched to the back at the same time (center photo). Finally, turn under the bottom raw edge, pin and hand stitch (photo on right). Easy, right?

Binding

The final finish! By the time quilters get to the binding they usually are just ready to be done and may not put too much thought into it. Actually I confess I sometimes feel that way too. I just want to be finished and get the quilt gifted or start using it. But, here’s a few things to consider: the color, the type, and how much fabric you need.

Color: when considering the color of the binding, consider whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. The binding can act as a frame for your quilt if you want it to. Here’s an example of that:

Now for this next quilt, I kept the binding color the same as the quilt top background so your eye is drawn to the appliqué instead.

Type: Now you need to consider the type of binding for your quilt: single-fold or double-fold. Single-fold binding is made up of strips, usually 1 1/2″ wide, and attached to the quilt top in a single layer. Double-fold binding is made up of strips at least 2 1/4″ wide and is pressed in half before it is attached to the quilt top (see photo below). I will use single-fold binding on things like table runners and wall hangings. I use double-fold binding on larger quilts because it tends to be sturdier for a quilt that will be handled more.

Fabric Needs: How do you figure out how much binding you need for a quilt top? Here’s some handy steps:

Figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation: 60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65. I always round up, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
Multiply the strip amount by the size of the strips needed. If I am making double-fold binding, I use 2 1/4″ strips so: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

Some Final Tips for binding:

Tip #1: Cut away the excess batting and backing from the quilted quilt before attaching the binding. However when you are cutting away the excess, leave a scant 1/8″.

This helps you to achieve a “full” binding. This little bit serves to stuff the binding as you turn it to the back for stitching.

Tip #2: Start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. Pin one side at a time for stitching. Once you get to the corner on the first side you have pinned, measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. This is a step you need to do before you turn the corner with your binding and continue onto the next side.

Tip #3: When stitching this side, start stitching and stop at the pin that marks 1/4″ from the edge. Doing this helps when making the mitered corner as you turn the binding to continue onto the next side. If you are using double-fold binding, don’t start stitching right at the top of the binding. You want to leave a little “pocket” to slip the end of the binding in once you are done.

Tip #4: Hand stitching the binding to the back is easier with these handy clips. They’re actually the hair clips my daughter used to use when she was in high school. These types of clips are now sold in many quilt shops for this use.

Tip #5: How to get a nice mitered corner when hand stitching the binding is something that seems to elude many quilters. Here’s how I do it.

When I get to the corner, I pin the two sides of the binding as shown in the photo on the left. Then I hand stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges and stitch up the diagonal “seam” created (center photo). I will then feed my needle back down that seam in the fabric and start stitching the next side. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front! With practice, your corners will start to look like this!

As a bonus, here’s my binding video tutorial covering how to make double-fold binding and the steps to attach it to the quilt top.

I hope this was a helpful refresher for you experience quilters and a great learning experience for the beginners among us. Share your comments and questions below. I will choose a winner among the commenters to receive a copy of my newest pattern: Star Dash.

The drawing will be on Monday, March 13th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Julie!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Binding – The Perfect Finish!

Hi everyone! In this post, I am going to cover my favorite binding tips and share my binding tutorial video. I also have some tips for figuring how much binding you need. Binding is not my favorite thing to do, but I know it has to be done if I want to use the quilt! So let’s go….

Tip#1 – What Kind of Binding?

The first thing I do when I am ready to bind the quilt top is to decide which type of binding I want: single-fold or double-fold.

Single-fold binding is a binding that is one layer of fabric that is laid face down on the front of the quilt top, lined up with the raw edges, machine stitched and then turned to the back to hand stitch in place. Double-fold binding is a wider strip that is folded over before attaching it to the front of the quilt. when it is turned to the back to be stitched, there are two layers of fabric on the edge of the quilt. Obviously, double-fold binding is more durable. Here are the different bindings:

I like to use single-fold binding on quilts that will not get a lot of use like wall hangings and decorative table runners. If a quilt will be handled a lot, I like to use double-fold binding for more durability.

Tip#2 – Choose the Color

The color is important. Do you want the binding to “disappear” or do you want it to act as a frame for the quilt? If I have a busy border, especially one with appliqué, I like to match the binding color to the fabric in the border so the viewer’s eye is drawn to my appliqué. Here’s an example:

The background fabric of the border on the above quilt is black so I made the binding black to make it appear invisible. If I have a quilt that has no appliqué and just has a pieced or plain border, I will choose a color that compliments the blocks in the quilt and acts as a frame. For this quilt, I chose a dark blue binding as a final “frame”.

Tip#3 – How to Figure Amount of Binding Needed

Instead of guessing how much fabric you need for binding, here is the formula I use to figure out how many strips I need to cut to make the right length. You can use this formula for both single-fold and double-fold binding. I assume 40″ width of fabric for my formula to account for the varying widths of fabric you find on the market. So if your fabric width is wider, you can adjust the formula or you will have some binding left over.

Figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation: 60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips I need. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65. I always round up, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
Multiply the strip amount by the size of the strips needed. If I am making double-fold binding, I use 2 1/4″ strips so: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

Not too hard!

Finally – How to Make and Attach Double-fold Binding

Since it’s not so easy to describe how to make this type of binding with just words and photos, I decided to make a tutorial video showing the steps. Hopefully viewing this video will help you learn to make double-fold binding or give you a refresher!

So, that is all for now. Next week, I will be on vacation but I will be posting a blog post running some of my favorite mini tutorial videos so you won’t miss me!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Finishing Tips and Techniques

First of all, thanks to everyone that visited my Facebook page and took part in the virtual Great Wisconsin Quilt Show this past weekend. I still have my tutorial videos up on my Facebook Page if you’d like to look at them. One of the videos is a tour of a virtual quilt booth showcasing all my new patterns. Just scroll through my timeline to see the videos.

Last week we covered storing quilts. This week I will talk about some finishing tips once the quilt it pieced and quilted. Things like rod pockets, labels and preparing binding to name a few. There is also time to enter the drawing for my quilt pattern Rail Fence Blooms! So let’s get started on this week’s topic.

Tip #1 – Rod Pockets or Hanging Sleeves

Adding a rod pocket or a hanging sleeve to the back of a wall hanging is the best way to easily display it. I think the sleeve also helps hang the quilt smoothly and helps to avoid stressing any one side of the quilt. Once the sleeve is there, you can use about any item to hang your quilt like curtain rods, wire quilt hangers and even yardsticks!

How do I make these rod pockets or hanging sleeves you ask? Here are some simple steps. I think the best way to put a sleeve on a quilt is to do it at the same time as when you attach the binding like I did on this quilt below:

Step 1: Cut a strip of fabric 2 1/2″ wide and 2″ shorter than the width of the wall hanging. This quilt is 24″ wide, so I cut the strip 2 1/2 x 22″.

Then, hem the short ends of the strip by folding in about 1/4″ on each side (towards the wrong side of the fabric) and stitching.

Step 2: Lay the strip on the back of the quilted item aligning it with the top edge and pin in place. So, when you attach the binding to the front, the top of the sleeve will be stitched to the back.

Step 3: Turn under the bottom edge of the strip and pin in place so you can hand stitch this while hand stitching your binding to the back.

Tip #2 – Label the Quilt!

This is something that is often neglected. You don’t want your quilt to be one of those “maker unknown” quilts in the future, do you? Also, adding a label is a good way to personalize the quilt for the recipient.

The label can also be attached partly when attaching the binding. I like doing this because it adds a little extra security to the label. Here is an example of a flat fabric label attached on two sides while binding is attached:

I’ve also labeled quilts by writing with a fabric safe pen directly on the back. This is something you can do when you have a light fabric backing. Be sure not to press too hard so your writing does not bleed through to the front.

I’ve also used fabric labels that are run through my ink jet printer to personalize them even more. I have used these to write poems to the recipient, list high school accomplishments, gather signatures of friends and even reprint birth announcements to add to the back of the quilt.

Even if you just use the label for the date and your name, make a label!

Tip #3 – Binding

The final touch! Often quilters rush this part of the quilt because they just want to be done with the quilt. I like to put thought into my binding by considering it “the frame” for my piece of art. So here’s a few things to consider.

Color:

The color you choose for the binding depends on whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. Like I said above, I consider the binding as a frame for my design and want it to help the design to stand out. Here’s an example of that:

I used a dark binding because I liked how it accentuated the applique but did not detract from the design in the center of the quilt.

I wanted to keep the binding on this quilt the same color as the background. I generally do this on quilts with a dark background. Although I did add a little “pizzazz” by choosing a black fabric with a bit more larger print than the background. You can also choose to use the same fabric as the background fabric for your binding to have it completely disappear.

Finally, to use up fabric, consider a scrappy binding. Cut strips from all the leftover color prints used in the quilt top and make your binding from that! This is something I like to do mostly on table runners and wall hangings.

This is a great way to use up all the scraps generated when you cut out the project!

Binding Type:

The first way is by cutting strips the width you want, I usually use 2 1/4″ strips, and then folding them over and pressing:

Then you align the raw edge of the the binding with the raw edge of the quilt top on the front and stitch down. To finish, turn it to the back and stitch by hand.

Here’s an alternative way to make double-fold binding. Fold both sides of the strip in to meet in the center. Then there are no raw edges to your binding. Some quilters like this because they feel it’s more secure. It’s a personal choice. You can make this binding by hand or by using a binding tool.

And then you would attach it like this on the front side of the quilt with the bottom fold of the strip lining up with the raw edges of the quilt top:

Random Tips

Use a walking foot to attach the binding if your machine does not have a dual feed option. You will be stitching through a lot of layers and you want them all feed and to move smoothly as you are attaching the binding.
Use old hair clips to secure your folded over binding as you stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. I knew I’d find a good use for these left-over hair clips once my daughter stopped using them!

Use a blind stitch to attach your binding and use a color of thread that either matches the color of your binding or is a neutral thread that will blend in with any color.

So that’s it for this week. Leave a comment below to enter the drawing for my quilt pattern, Rail Fence Blooms!

The drawing will be on Monday, September 21st. ***We have a winner! Congrats, Brenda in Iowa!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Binding Tips for Busy Quilters

Happy Thanksgiving to my US readers! For this short week I wanted to cover some binding tips. Some you may know and some you may not. Binding is the finishing touch on your quilt so don’t rush through it. Choose the right binding to make your quilt sing!

Tip #1 – Color

The color you choose for the binding depends on whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. Some quilters use binding for an additional frame for their design and want it to stand out. Here’s an example of that:

I used a dark binding because I liked how it accentuated the applique but did not detract from the design in the center of the quilt.

Tip #2 – Binding Type

What type of binding I use for a quilt project is based on the usage the quilt will get. For wall hangings and decorative table runners, I will use single-fold binding. For large quilts and quilt items that may be used more, I use double-fold binding. Did you know there are 2 ways you can make double-fold binding? The first way is by cutting strips the width you want, I usually use 2 1/4″ strips (you’ll see why below) then folding them over and pressing:

So here’s the alternative way to make double-fold binding. Fold both sides of the strip in to meet in the center. Then there are no raw edges to your binding. Some quilters like this because they feel it’s secure. It’s a personal choice. You can make this binding by hand or by using a binding tool.

And then you would attach it like this on the front side of the quilt with the bottom fold of the strip lining up with the raw edges of the quilt top:

Tip #3 – Full Binding

To have a nice full binding, I like to leave a little batting and backing (about 1/8″) when trimming away the excess batting and backing from the quilted top. I then attach the binding to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as my guide. Also, having your double-fold binding strips cut at 2 1/4 or 2 1/8″ wide, instead of 2 1/2″ wide, helps to make it full too. If your binding is too wide, when you fold it over to the back, it will be empty at the top of the fold and make it look flat.

This guarantees that when I stitch the binding to the top, I will be catching all 3 layers of the quilt sandwich. When I’m ready to turn the binding to the back to stitch it down, I then trim the batting and backing even with the quilt top edge.

Random Tips

Use a walking foot to attach the binding if your machine does not have a dual feed option. You will be stitching through a lot of layers and you want them all feed and to move smoothly as you are attaching the binding.
Use old hair clips to secure your folded over binding as you stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. I knew I’d find a good use for these left-over hair clips once my daughter stopped using them!

Use a blind stitch to attach your binding and use a color of thread that either matches the color of your binding or is a neutral thread that will blend in with any color.

So, those are some of my tips! I keep forgetting to take photos of the corners when I attach the binding. I guess I’m in a hurry to get done! LOL! I want to show how to get the perfect mitered corner so I promise will get the photos the next time and show you that tip!

Leave a comment with your thoughts on binding. You may have a tip that some of us have not heard of. It’s always a great day when you learn something new!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Handy Tips When Finishing That Quilt!

Mid-August doldrums here …. it’s that time of the summer when you begin to notice signs of the coming fall. The gardens look a little less vibrant, the lawn not as green (especially here in north Iowa because we need rain!) and school is starting. I just sent my son back to his 2nd year of law school, so the house is quiet again…. a bit too quiet. I don’t think I’ll ever get used to the empty nest. At least I have Addie to keep me company!

She’s usually good for daily entertainment in the studio.

I have been working on finishing a stack of small quilts this week when it occurred to me I had some tips I could share. I’ve had a lingering cold this week, so the fact that my brain is working enough to come up with a blog post idea is exciting!

First tip – Hanging Sleeves:

For a wall hanging or larger quilts that needs a hanging sleeve, I will cut a 2 1/2″ strip of fabric, either the same as the binding fabric or the backing fabric. The strip should be about 1″ shorter than the width of the quilt you want to hang. For example, if the quilt is 24 1/2″ wide, I’ll cut the strip 2 1/2 x 23 1/2″.

Once the strip is cut, make a hem on each end of 1/4″ and stitch that in place:

Then, place the strip at the quilt’s top lining it up with the raw edges. Pin in place. Once that it done, stitch the binding on the front of the quilt. When you get to the top of the quilt, the top of the hanging sleeve strip on the back is stitched to the quilt top as you are attaching the binding to the front. Be careful that the strip is not folded up as you are stitching. This is what it looks like when you are done. As you can see, the top of the hanging sleeve is secured.

To finish, simply fold about 1/4″ under and hand stitch the bottom of the hanging sleeve.

Second Tip – Labels:

We all need to remember to label our quilts better. It’s good for family history or even for our own memory! If you take care of affixing the label while you are doing the binding, you won’t have to worry about it later. The steps are similar to the hanging sleeve tip. I usually press the two sides of the label that will not be sewn into the binding be for placing it on the back of the quilt. This will make it easier to stitch down those sides later.

Once you have the sides pressed, lay the label right side up on the back of the quilt aligning it with either the bottom left or right corner. Pin in place so you can move on to stitching the binding on to the front of the quilt. The two sides of the label that are aligned with the edges of the quilt will be stitched down when you stitch the binding. Like with the hanging sleeve, be careful not to catch the loose part of the label in your stitching.

As you can see in the above photo, the bottom and right side of the label are stitched down now. The next step is to hand stitch the top and left side of the label:

Now with a permanent fabric marker, I have plenty of space to write the name of the quilt, year made and any other information I would like. Instant documentation!

So there you have it. I hope these two little tips are useful to you for future projects!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

I Like Scraps …. Do You?

I love scraps because …. I always have a lot of them! I don’t think many quilters are actually without scraps. When I cut out a project, I usually end up with basket by the side of my cutting table looking like this:

Yeah, this mess … it’s one part wanting to get to sewing my project and 3 parts laziness. I really need to sort out the strips. I usually sort them into containers based on whether they are a color print or a tan print and if they are a full width of fabric (40″) strip or just a piece of a strip. Here’s one of the bags I use to contain my strips:

So what can you do with all these leftover strips? I like to design patterns with log cabin blocks.

And 1 1/2″ and 2 1/2″ strips are great to make a very scrappy log cabin quilt. I used mine to make a Courthouse Steps Log Cabin block (above). Of course you can also use them to make traditional Log Cabin blocks as well.

Another great use for leftover strips are pieced borders. Especially if you finish a project, have lots of fabric left over and you want to make it bigger. This example below is the piano key style strip border created by using 2 1/2″ strips.

Another option is to mix pieces cut from 2 1/2″ and 1 1/2″ strips to make a unique border.

Finally another use for my strips is to make scrappy binding. What a great way to use up the fabric from a project! And you do not have to buy additional fabric for a binding.

If it does not work to cut a leftover piece of fabric into strips, I separate those pieces by color and put them into bins to use in appliqué projects. Instead of having to cut into a larger piece of fabric for a small flower, I just dig into my appliqué bin of the appropriate color!
Here’s some of those bins:

Another way I put scraps to use is to use them to make test blocks. I make these when I am trying out color ideas for a block. Instead of cutting into “fresh” fabric, I dig through my scraps for colors I want to audition and make the block. I can even make two or three different variations. Once I have chosen the color combo I want, I can purchase the fabric and make the quilt with no worries. This is also a great idea because it familiarizes you with the pattern instructions before you tackle the whole project.

When you are done with the test blocks, you can add a few scrappy borders to it and have an instant mini quilt! They make great gifts! Here’s one I made a few years ago:

So do you want to try a scrap quilt and are not sure how to get started? Try a “planned” scrap quilt. Take a quilt pattern for a quilt made with one block make each block separately using different colors (but still coordinating). Another way to get scrappier is to do it while buying fabric. If a pattern calls for 1 yard of blue, consider buying 4 fat quarters in different blues or other colors in that color family. Do the same for the other colors in the pattern. You’ve instantly made it scrappier!

The key to enjoying scrap quilting is to let go and have fun! Buy smaller cuts of fabric in many colors from your local quilt shop instead of larger cuts of just one color. Once you build up a stash, it’s fun to go “shopping” there and experiment.

***Share with me your ideas on scraps! I’d love to hear from you. I’ll pick a winner from the comments to receive my scrappiest pattern, Scrappy North Stars!*** Winner will be chosen next week. ***We have a winner! Yvette Borden. Congrats!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Bind that Quilt!

Some people like to bind a quilt …. and some people don’t. Some people feel both ways! I like binding the quilt because it means my project is done and I can move on to the next. However, I am often impatient because there really isn’t too much creativity that goes into binding, unlike the quilt top.

Sometimes in the past I found that I was so anxious to get the quilt finished, I would just slap on any color binding that didn’t “offend” the quilt. Now, it’s different! I now think of binding as sort of the last “frame” for the quilts I make. There are several ways you can enhance your quilt with binding.

Color

One option is to have a scrappy binding, using several of the fabrics that were used in the quilt:

Or as another option, you can have a one color binding using your favorite color from the quilt. For example, if you have a red fabric in the blocks, you may want to call attention to that by putting on a red binding. It will appear that you are “pulling” that red out of the quilt for attention.

Another eye-catching option is binding with striped fabric. Cut binding strips on the bias from a fun stripe fabric for a cool design effect:

A final option I have used is a contrasting binding like using black fabric to frame a scrappy quilt. The black “outlines” my quilt!

Finally, if you are more interested in having your binding just fade into the background, choose a binding that is the same color or close to the same color as the outside border of your quilt.

What Size?

Do you use single-fold or double-fold binding? That is usually up to the quilter. But, here’s how I decide to use it. I use single fold binding on quilted projects that will be mostly decorative, like wall hangings, candle mats and table toppers. On quilted projects that may get more use like lap quilts and bed quilts, I will use a double-fold binding for more durability.

My single-fold binding is made from 1 1/2″ strips of fabric seamed together on the bias.

My double-fold binding is make from 2 1/4 to 2 1/2″ strips, seamed together on the bias and then pressed in half lengthwise.

Tip

So you know how it’s really hard to wrangle long strips of binding while you are attaching it to your quilt? Well, roll up your binding around a cardboard toilet paper roll and secure it with a large pin to hold in place! You can also just roll it up and secure it with a large binding clip. This keeps it under control!

Do you have any tips or ideas to share on binding? Leave me a comment and be entered in a drawing for a 3 pack of my newest patterns!

**We have a winner! Congrats, Beverly!**

So, what are you waiting for? Time to tackle that binding! Get to work!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

The Finishing Touch – Binding

Quilt Binding – Tips and a Tutorial

When the Quilting is Done

Binding – The Perfect Finish!

Finishing Tips and Techniques

Binding Tips for Busy Quilters

Handy Tips When Finishing That Quilt!

I Like Scraps …. Do You?

Bind that Quilt!

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2026 Block of the Month