Snuggles Quilts

Snuggles Quilts

MENU

Piecing Tips for Bias Seams – Part 2

Last week I covered fabric grains: lengthwise, crosswise and bias. I also covered bias seams when making units from the stitch & flip technique, like flying geese. This week I am covering another very familiar unit, the half-square triangle (HST) square. I cover the basic technique of making two at a time to making multiples. Let’s get started.

Making Half-Square Triangle (HST) Squares

Let’s start with the most basic, common method that makes two HSTs at a time and uses two squares cut 7/8″ larger than the finished measurement (the measurement without seam allowance) of your HST. For example, for a 2″ HST, you would cut each of the squares 2 7/8″.

Next, draw a line diagonally on the wrong side of one of the squares, place the squares right sides together and then sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line.

Then, you cut the unit apart on the drawn line and press the two parts open for two HSTs!

Lots of Half-square Triangle Squares!

On no! I know you’ve shuddered at quilts that have a lot of these types of block units. Making them two at a time, like above, will take a long time. Because of that, you may shy away from making a quilt like my Village Square quilt.

If you want to make a quilt pattern like mine with a lot of scrappy HSTs, the technique of making multiple HSTs at once is a skill you want to learn. There is a way to make four HSTs at a time or even eight at a time.

Four HSTs at a Time: To start, you need to know the size of the HST you want to end up with to know what size to cut your fabric pieces for this technique.

If you need your HSTs to measure 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ (that includes the seam allowance), you divide that number by .64 and then round up to the nearest whole number. Here’s how that formula looks in action:

2 1/2 ÷ .64 = 3.906  – that number is then round that up to 4″

So, you will cut two squares each 4 x 4″ from the two different color fabrics you want for your HSTs. (first photo below), lay the two squares, right sides together, on top of each other and then stitch with a 1/4″ seam around the outside (last photo).

Since my thread doesn’t show too well on the above photo (finger is pointing to the seam), here’s a drawing of what it should look like:

The final step is to cut the unit apart as shown below and then press open the resulting units for four HSTs.

Since the size of the squares used here are rounded up to make these HSTs, they may need trimming to measure the size needed for the pattern you are making. Be sure to lay the 45 degree line of the ruler you are using for trimming on the diagonal seam for accuracy. 

Eight HSTs at a Time: If the quilt pattern you are making has a large amount of HSTs made from the same color combinations, then the eight at a time method will be more efficient for you. Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST square you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST squares that measure 1 1/2 x  1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

 1 1/2″ x 2″ = 3″

3″ + 1 3/4″ = 4 3/4″

So, you need two squares each 4 3/4 x 4 3/4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares (photo on the left below) and then place your squares right sides together like in the four HSTs at a time instructions above. Pin the unit and sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of each drawn lines (photo on right below).

Cut the unit apart into 4 squares and then cut each square apart on the drawn diagonal line. Once all the pieces are cut apart, then press open for your eight HSTs.

Now you can trim those HSTs to the size you need. Repeat as often as needed to get as many HSTs as you want using a variety of color prints to end up with enough scrappy HSTs to make a quilt like my Village Square.

Blocks Made from Stitch & Flip and HSTs

Here’s some blocks that combine stitch & flip units from last week and the HSTs from this week. Hopefully the tips shared last week and this week make it easier to make these.

That’s all for this week. Leave a comment or ask a question below and I will enter you into the drawing for my pattern, Sun Catcher:

The drawing will be on Monday, January 26th. Good luck! ***We have a winner! Congrats, Judy Kimber!***

Happy Quilting,
Deanne

2024 Block of the Week – Block 2

Welcome back! I hope you enjoyed making block 1 of this sew along and that my tips were helpful in doing that. This week, I will share tips on making half-square triangle squares so they measure accurately and also show how to make multiples if you have a project that requires a lot of those units. So let’s get started on block 2!

Block of the Week

Here is block 2:

The name of this block is Jacob’s Ladder. It’s another traditional block like the one I presented last week. Click here for the instructions: 2024 BOW Block 2.

The history of this block has it’s basis in the Bible. The pattern was first discussed in 1915 by Marie Webster in her book, Quilts: Their Story and How to Make Them. At that time in our quilting history, biblical names were a popular source for quilt blocks. Even though it was featured in this book in 1915, the block pattern itself pre-dates the Revolutionary War, making it one of the oldest traditional blocks.

This block is on a 16-patch grid if you were to layout each 3 1/2″ unit separately while piecing the block. My piecing instructions will be a little bit easier. 

Some fun with this block: flip the outer HSTs inward and you get an interesting “churn dash” look:

And this is another block where you can play with colors and make it scrappy:

It will take a little creative cutting of the scraps but if you keep four colors for the HSTs, it will work.

Tip of the Week

Now it’s time for the tip of the week. I’ll first cover making HSTs where you get two at a time. I’ll focus on getting the correct size there. Then I’ll move onto multiples.

  • Classic Method – Two at a Time

For this method, you start with 2 squares of fabric of different colors. For this block, one is a color print and one is a tan print. The finished HSTs for this block are 3 1/2″ so start with squares that are 3 7/8″ (you can round up to 4″ if you want). Here’s the steps:

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one of the squares and then place that square and the other one right sides together with the one with the drawn line on top so you can see it while stitching.

Next, stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line. The first photo below shows the stitched unit. Using the scant 1/4″ distance guarantees your squares will not be too small when you press them open because you can always trim them.  The next photo shows the unit cut apart on the drawn line. You will then have two units. 

Do not press them open yet. We will actually trim them before pressing. The great thing about that is you are only having to make two trimming cuts instead of have to trim all four sides individually! I use this ruler:

Once you trim and press the units open, you have two HSTs. If you do not have a Quilt in a Day Triangle Square-up ruler like the one above, then you will need to press open your HSTs prior to trimming. Place the 45 degree line of your ruler on the diagonal seam to trim evenly.

  • Multiple HSTs

Here is a method to make 8 HSTs at once. I use this method when I have a project that requires a large amount of HSTs.

This method uses 2 squares like above, however they need to be twice the size as your finished square + 1 3/4″. For example, if you want 2″ finished HSTs, your starting squares need to be 5 3/4″ ( 2 x 2 = 4″ plus 1 3/4″).

Draw a diagonal line both ways on the wrong side of one of the squares and then lay your squares right sides together one on top of each other just like in the method above. Then stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of those drawn lines (right photo below).

Once the stitching is done, cut the square apart as shown (first two photos below). Then cut the smaller squares apart on the diagonal line.

Now you can trim each of these with the ruler shown above, press open and you have 8 HSTs!

So that’s it for the tips this week. I hope you enjoy making block 2! Leave a comment or ask a question below and I will enter you into a drawing for this lovely stack of fat quarters.

The drawing will be the week after the sew along ends.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

So Many Small Pieces! Tips for Piecing Shortcuts

This week I will share with you two of my favorite piecing shortcuts. These are techniques that can help you to get some projects done quicker than you thought you could. Sometimes you look at a pattern and say “there are too many small pieces!” and decide not to make it. Well, I think these piecing shortcuts will help to change your mind. Let’s go!

Lots of Tiny Squares!

Here is a quilt of mine, Seaside Cottage, that looks like I just sat by a box of 1 1/2″ squares and kept sewing… and sewing…. and sewing.

Well, that’s not the case! Any time you see a quilt with a lot of nine-patch blocks (like above), four-patch blocks and even rail fence blocks … the secret ingredient is: strip sets!

Strip sets are made from joining two or more long strips on their lengthwise sides. You can use width of fabric strips (40-44″ long) if you need a lot of pieces cut for your project, but I prefer to cut those in half to 20-22″ long. It’s easier for your strip sets to distort if you are using longer strips.

I make my strip sets with a scant 1/4″ seam to make sure they measure accurately when done. My tip for using a scant 1/4″ for piecing these is after each strip is added, press the strip set open, measure and trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips (left photo).

Instead of lining up the edge of my strip unit for stitching with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move it a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo).

Once those strips are stitched together I want it to measure 2 1/2″ wide. To do this, I press the set, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it to 2 1/2″. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam for even trimming. Then I add the next strip in the same manner.

Once that last strip is added to the set and the new seam is pressed open, I place the 1 1/4″ line of the ruler on the new seam and trim. The strip set will now measure 3 1/2″.

Tip for stitching more than one strip: when you stitch strips together, alternate your sewing direction. That helps limit distortion of the strips and the strip set.

After you have your strip sets made, then you sub-cut them into the pieces you need. For example, the photos below show sub-cutting a two-strip strip set that is used to make four-patch blocks.

You can use strip sets to make a lot of different blocks like these:

Lots of Half-square Triangle Squares!

On no! I know you’ve shuddered at quilts that have a lot of these types of block units. For beginners, the short-cut term for these is: HST squares. If you’ve seen patterns that states you need X amount of HSTs … they’re talking about half-square triangle squares.

You may shy away from my Village Square quilt for this reason.

If you want to make a quilt pattern like mine with a lot of scrappy HSTs, the technique of making multiple HSTs at once is a skill you want to learn. There is a way to make four HSTs at a time or even eight at a time!

Four HSTs at a Time: To start, you need to know the size of the HST you want to end up with to know what size to cut your fabric pieces for this technique.

If you need your HSTs to measure 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ (that includes the seam allowance), you divide that number by .64 and then round up to the nearest whole number. Here’s how that formula looks in action:

2 1/2 ÷ .64 = 3.906  – that number is then round that up to 4″

So, you will cut two squares each 4 x 4″ from the two different color fabrics you want for your HSTs. (first photo below), lay the two squares, right sides together, on top of each other and then stitch with a 1/4″ seam around the outside (last photo).

Sorry my thread doesn’t show too well on the above photo (finger is pointing to the seam) Here’s a drawing of what it should look like:

The final step is to cut the unit apart as shown below and then press open the resulting units for four HSTs.

Since the size of the squares used here are rounded up to make these HSTs, they may need trimming to measure the size needed for the pattern you are making. Be sure to lay the 45 degree line of the ruler you are using for trimming on the diagonal seam for accuracy. 

Eight HSTs at a Time: If the quilt pattern you are making has a large amount of HSTs made from the same color combinations, then the eight at a time method will be more efficient for you. Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST square you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST squares that measure 1 1/2 x  1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

 1 1/2″ x 2″ = 3″

3″ + 1 3/4″ = 4 3/4″

So, you need two squares each 4 3/4 x 4 3/4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares (photo on the left below) and then place your squares right sides together like in the four HSTs at a time instructions above. Pin the unit and sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of each drawn lines (photo on right below).

Cut the unit apart into 4 squares and then cut each square apart on the drawn diagonal line. Once all the pieces are cut apart, then press open for your eight HSTs!

Now you can trim those HSTs to the size you need. Repeat as often as needed to get as many HSTs as you want using a variety of color prints to end up with a fantastic scrappy quilt.

So that’s a synopsis of my two favorite shortcuts. What kind of shortcuts have you used? Share in the comments and I will choose one of you to win my pattern, Village Square. You can then practice multiple HSTs!

The drawing will be on Monday, February 12th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Lynn!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

My Favorite Piecing Shortcuts

Last week I covered all types of shortcuts in hand stitching and machine piecing. So how do piecing shortcuts apply to actual block and quilt making? I have chosen to talk about two of my favorite piecing shortcuts: multiple half-square triangle (HST) squares and strip sets. By using these shortcuts, I’ve been able to make blocks and quilts, that would otherwise take a lot of time, more quickly. So let’s get started!

Multiple HST Squares

First off if you don’t already know, HST is the acronym for half-square triangle. I like using that acronym because it’s a lot easier than typing out half-square triangles every time. LOL! The best thing about making multiple HSTs is getting a lot done in a few easy steps, which is great when you have a lot these units to make for a quilt. You can make four at a time or eight at a time depending on how many of the same color combinations you need.

Four HSTs at a Time: Determine the size of the HST you want (including seam allowance), divide that number by .64. Round up to the nearest 1/8″.  Then cut 2 squares of different colors that size. For example, for 2 1/2″ HSTs:

       2 1/2″ / .64 = 3.906, round up to 4″

Step 1: Lay the two squares right sides together matching up raw edges so they are completely one on top of the other. Pin in place.

Step 2: Sew 1/4″ around all 4 sides of the square unit.

Step 3: Cut the sewn square diagonally as shown and then press open each section for 4 HSTs.

Since the size of the squares used here are rounded up to make these HSTs, they may need trimming to measure the size needed for the pattern you are making. Be sure to lay the 45 degree line of the ruler you are using for trimming on the diagonal seam for accuracy. 

Here’s a trimming shortcut I like: I have a ruler called the Quilt in a Day Triangle Square-up Ruler. This allows you to trim up the HSTs before pressing them open. So, you only need to trim 2 sides instead of 4 sides.

Eight HSTs at a Time: If the quilt pattern you are making has a large amount of HSTs made from the same color combinations, then the eight at a time method will be more efficient for you.

Step 1: Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST square you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST square that measures 1 1/2 x  1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

                1 1/2″ x 2″ = 3″

                3″ + 1 3/4″ = 4 3/4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares (photo on the right below).

Step 2: Place the squares right sides together with the square with the drawn lines on top so they are visible. Pin. Sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of each drawn lines.

Step 3: Cut the unit apart into 4 squares and then cut each square on the drawn diagonal line.

Once you press them all open, you have eight HSTs of the same color scheme.

Just like you did with the four at a time HSTs, these may need to be trimmed down to the size needed for your pattern.

Strip Sets

Strip sets are a shortcut often used when making blocks like a four-patch, nine-patch or rail fence. You can also use these to make the units for a piano key border. Strip sets are made from joining two or more long strips on their lengthwise sides. You can use width of fabric strips (40-44″ long) if you need a lot of pieces cut for your project, but I prefer to cut those in half to 20-22″ long. It’s easier for your strip sets to distort if you are using longer strips.

I like to make strip sets with a scant 1/4″ seam that helps my strip sets to measure accurately. When using a scant 1/4″ for piecing these sets, each time a strip is added, press and trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips (left photo).

Instead of lining up the edge of my strip unit for stitching with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move it a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo). Once those strips are stitched together, the strip set should measure 2 1/2″ wide. To achieve this I press the set, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it to 2 1/2″. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam to be centered for trimming.

Now I can add on the next strip with a scant 1/4″ seam, press and trim. Lay the 1 1/4″ line of the ruler on the new seam and trim. When finished, the strip set measures the 3 1/2″ width as required.

Some more tips when working with strip sets:

Tip #1: Always pin the strips you are joining so the remain aligned while stitching.

Tip #2: When stitching strips together, do not pull on them or push them through the machine. Just gently guide them along. Doing otherwise can distort your seam.

Tip #3: Make sure to press and not iron when pressing the strip set open.  If you iron along the seam instead of pressing, you run the risk of stretching the fabric, the seam or both. This will result in a distorted strip set that is difficult to cut into segments.

Tip #4: Finally, if you are joining more than two strips together, alternate which end you start at when stitching. This also helps to limit distortion of the whole strip set. The diagram below shows what I am talking about:

So that all for this week. Leave a comment or ask a question below and be entered into a drawing for my pattern, Seaside Cottage:

This pattern will give you a lot of strip set practice for all those nine-patch blocks! The drawing will be on Tuesday, September 12th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Mary Wise!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Accuracy in Quilting

Last week I gave some tips on fabric buying and cutting. Continuing on to the next logical step, it’s time to piece the units that will eventually create the blocks and the quilt. We talked about accuracy when cutting out the pieces for your quilt project, but you also need to carry that accuracy over to piecing.  This ensures your units and blocks will measure the size required by the pattern to complete your quilt successfully. That’s the topic for this week. Let’s get started!

1/4″ Seam

Everything starts there. Sewing with a 1/4″ seam is required for most, if not all, quilt patterns. If a pattern requires a different width seam, it will note it. So, if there is no notation on width of seam to use, assume it’s always 1/4″. The reason for this is that when pieces are cut out, they are cut with a 1/4 seam allowance figured in. 

This is why you will see descriptions like this in a pattern: 

Your block will measure 12 1/2 x 12 1/2″. The finished size is 12 x 12″.

The finished size is the size the block will be once it is pieced into a quilt.

My number one tips for achieving a 1/4″ seam is to start with a 1/4″ foot and always sew a practice seam before beginning a projects. Here’s my 1/4″ foot:

And here is one of my practice seams I stitched and measured.

If you do not have a 1/4″ foot, you can use the throat plate on your machine as a guide. The mark is usually fairly small (see my photo below) but you can make it more noticable by adding a strip of painter’s tape to extend it a bit.

I used the tape measure to help me place the tape. Once you complete this step, sew another practice seam to make sure you have an accurate 1/4″ seam.

Scant 1/4″ Seam

You’ve seen this in patterns, but what does that mean and why do you want to use that? A scant 1/4″ seam is when you sew a seam with a width that is just a hair UNDER 1/4″.  I use this seam when I am piecing half-square triangles together … making half-square triangle squares (HSTs) the old fashioned way and when I am piecing strips for strips sets. These are two unit types that can be trimmed down to the size needed after piecing.

The scant 1/4″ works even if you are chain stitching the pre-cut squares for HSTs.  Here’s an example:

In the photo on the left, you can see I placed the drawn line on the square aligned with the right edge of the 1/4″ foot. A scant 1/4″ is shown in the photo on the right. I moved the square a hair to the left so the drawn line was under the right side of the 1/4″ foot. This will give me a seam just a hair under 1/4″. That’s a scant!

And then it’s on to trimming with one of my favorite tools: the Quilt in a Day Triangle Square-up ruler.

Now for using the scant 1/4″ for strip sets. When using a scant 1/4″for piecing these sets, each time you add a strip press and trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips.

Once again, instead of lining up the edge of my unit to be pieced with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move it a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo). Once those strips are stitched, the strip set should measure 2 1/2″ wide. To achieve this I press the set, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it to 2 1/2″. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam to be centered for trimming.

Now I add on the next strip with a scant 1/4″ seam, press and then trim. Lay the 1 1/4″ line of the ruler on the new seam and trim. When finished, the strip set measures the 3 1/2″ width as required.

More Piecing Accuracy Tips

Tip #1: Another piecing accuracy tip to go with the seam size is to ALWAYS pin the pieces you are joining. Even if it’s just a short seam.

I confess that I can be in a hurry and skip pinning, but that’s when you get units that don’t measure accurately when you are done. If the pieces you are joining are not pinned, the top or bottom piece can shift while you are stitching the seam and then the unit will not measure correctly.

Tip #2: Measure units as you go. It’s easier to un-sew smaller units instead of an entire block when you realize it doesn’t measure correctly. For example, if I am making several flying geese units for a block and they need to measure 2 x 3 1/2″ each so the block comes out the correct size, I measure the geese units (like below) as I complete them. That way, when I am ready to piece the block, I know all the units measure accurately. That, along with accurate 1/4″ seams guarantee my blocks will be the right size!

So that’s it for this week! Share your comments and questions below and I will enter you into a drawing for my pattern, String Star Runners.

This pattern will give you a lot of practice on accurate piecing, especially piecing strip sets. The drawing will be on Monday, February 20th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Suzy!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2022 Block of the Week – Block 2

Welcome back to the 2022 Block of the Week! If you are just joining the fun, you can go to this link: Welcome to the Block of the Week! to start at the beginning. We are now on to block 2 of this BOW. 

2022 BOW Block 2 – Lady of the Lake

This week’s block has a lot of half-square triangle squares in it, so you’ll get a lot of practice with those. After I show you the block, I will cover some tips on making half-square triangle squares. These units are also referred to as HSTs so if you see that in a pattern, you’ll know what it is. So, here is the block:

The instructions to make this block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 2. This block is thought to be named after an 1810 poem by Sir Walter Scott. Men and women who traveled west in the 19th century were great fans of his poetry and the poem by this name. So, to pay tribute, this patchwork block was named for the poem and first published in the 1820s.

Because this block has a lot of units and a lot of seams, precise and accurate 1/4″ stitching is important for it to measure correctly. Below, I’ll talk about different ways to make HSTs and the importance of measuring all your units before piecing them into a block.

Tip of the Week – Half-Square Triangle (HSTs) Squares

Common Method:

There are a lot of different methods to make HSTs. The first I will cover is one step up from the traditional method of joining two triangles. This common method (as I call it) will give you two HSTs at a time.

For this method, start with 2 squares that measure 7/8″ larger than the finished size of your HST unit. Finished size refers to the size of the unit minus the seam allowance (how it measures when it is stitched into a block). For example, if your HST finished size is 2″, then you need to cut your squares 2 7/8 x 2 7/8″. Then when you make the HST, it will measure 2 1/2″ with the seam allowances and 2″ finished.

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one of the squares, then lay the two squares right sides together and stitch 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line. It’s important to have an accurate 1/4″ or a scant (just under). If your seam is too large, your HST will come out too small. Cut the unit apart on the drawn line:

Press open the two halves and you have two HSTs. 

If you need to, you can trim your HSTs to measure the correct size. Just make sure to lay the ruler’s 45 degree line on the diagonal seam.

There’s a cool tool that allows you to trim the HSTs before you press them open. Then you only have to make two cuts instead of four. It’s call the Triangle Square Up Ruler by Quilt in a Day.

You simply choose the size your unit should measure (with seam allowance) and line up that line on the ruler with the seam on your unit. Trim the two sides, press open and you have your HST!

Alternate Methods

Method 1 – Makes 4 HSTs:

Determine the size of your HST you want (including seam allowance), divide that number by .64. Round up to the nearest 1/8″.  Then cut 2 squares of different colors that size. For example, for 2 1/2″ HSTs:

       2 1/2″ / .64 = 3.906, round up to 4″

Lay the two squares right sides together matching up raw edges so they are completely one on top of the other. Pin in place. Sew 1/4″ around all 4 sides of the square unit (see my finger pointing in last photo).

Cut the sewn square diagonally as shown and then press open each section for 4 HSTs.

Method 2 – Makes 8 HSTs:

This method is great when you have a scrap quilt that has lots and lots of HSTs.

Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST that measures 1 1/2 x 1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

                1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ = 2 1/4″

                2 1/4″ + 1 3/4″ = 4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares. Place the squares right sides together with the square with the drawn lines on top so they are visible. Pin. Sew a 1/4″ on each side of each drawn line.

Cut the unit apart evenly into 4 squares and then cut each square on the diagonal line.

Press open and you have 8 HSTs!

So those are a few of the different ways you can make HSTs. It’s fun to try new methods once in a while. Enjoy making block 2! 

Remember, comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2021 Block of the Week – Block 2

Hi! Welcome back to my 2021 Block of the Week series. If you missed week 1 you can find the first post here. This week’s block is just as fun and scrappy as last week’s. I will once again review the block and then cover some quilting techniques that will help you complete the block. Since this week’s block has a lot of half-square triangle (HST) squares, I will cover how to make HSTs the traditional way and how to make them in multiples. Once again, have fun rummaging through your stash of scraps to put together your favorite combination of colors! Like last week, there will be a drawing from the comments for a prize and you will be entered into the grand prize drawing at the end. Sorry, drawing is open only for US residents. Let’s get started!

Block #2 – Double X

For the instructions to make this block, find the pattern here: 2021 BOW Block 2.

Now onto this week’s quilting technique tips that I hope will help you to complete this block or just provide a refresher for those of you who are experienced quilters.

Making HSTs – Traditional Methods

There are two traditional methods to make half-square triangle (HST) squares. The oldest is to cut two different fabric squares in half, then stitch together two of the triangles with a bias seam.

I stitch the two pieces using a “scant” 1/4″ seam. I like to use a scant 1/4″ because then I can trim the square to size. We’ll get to the trimming after I finish going over these two methods.

This next method is the quicker way to get two HST squares from two separate pieces of fabric. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one of the squares, lay them right sides together, stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of the line and then cut the unit apart.

Now to the trimming. There’s two ways to do that too. The first way is to press open the stitched units, then trim all 4 sides by laying the ruler’s 45 degree line on the diagonal seam. In the first photo below, I show the measurement of the seam showing the scant 1/4″.

The second way to trim these squares is to trim them while they are still not pressed open by using the Quilt in a Day ruler that is part of my grand prize give-away. You lay the line marked with the square size on the seam and trim the excess. Using this ruler means you only have to make two trimming cuts instead of four like above. Then you press open the unit for an HST square!

Multiple HSTs

This is a great method to use when you have to make a lot of HST squares of the same color and you’d like to make more than two at once. This method gives you eight HST squares at once!

Start with 2 squares that are 2 times the size of the HST you are making plus 1 3/4″. For this block, my HSTs needed to be 1 1/2″. So, 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 = 2 1/4 then 2 1/4 + 1 3/4 = 4″. Once you have your squares cut to size, draw diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares as shown. Lay the 2 squares right sides together, keeping the square with the drawn lines on top.

Now, stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn lines. Like in the traditional method, I use a scant 1/4″ seam because I then have the option to trim the HSTs if needed. If you make them too small …. no way to make them grow!

Once you have the squares stitched this way, use a ruler to cut this unit into four quadrants, and then cut the quadrants apart. Use one of the trimming and pressing methods above for eight HST squares!

So, that’s it for Block #2 and this week’s quilt technique tutorial! Leave me a comment on this blog to be entered in a drawing for my quilt pattern, Village Square, where you will get a lot of practice with one of these HST square methods. There’s 384 HST squares in this quilt!

The drawing for this pattern will be on Monday, April 26th. Have fun making block #2! **We have a winner! Congrats, June Kempston!**

Happy Quilting
Deanne

Piecing Techniques – Bias Seams

Hi! This week, I decided to talk about bias seams, specifically when making  half-square triangle (HST) squares and flying geese. Learning to make these units will open up a whole range of quilt blocks if you are a beginner. Whether you are new to quilting or a seasoned sewer, it’s always a great time for tips on making these units.

Straight seams and Bias Seams

If you are new to quilting, you have probably worked mostly with straight seams and not seams on the bias. To start, I’ll explain what the bias of fabric is. Bias of the fabric is at a 45 degree angle from the selvages of a piece of fabric.

On the bias fabric is the least stable and there is more stretch. That’s why it’s important to stitch your HST or flying geese units correctly the first time so you do not have to do any “unsewing”. If you have to pick out a seam on the bias, there is more of a chance that you will distort and stretch the fabric, ruining the piece. Not to say you can not ever pick out one of these seams, you just need to be super, super careful because it’s on the bias.

Here is the simplest explanation of the two types of seams. A straight seam is right there in the description: straight. Putting two units together and sewing straight on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. For example, two squares stitched together:

A bias seam is when you join two pieces of fabric matching the bias cut sides:

Making Half-Square Triangle (HST) Squares

So now that you know the difference between straight seams and bias seams, lets make some HSTs!

The most common method makes two HSTs at a time and uses two squares cut 7/8″ larger than the finished measurement (the measurement without seam allowance) of your HST. For example, for a 2″ HST, you would cut each of the squares 2 7/8″.

Next, draw a line diagonally on the wrong side of one of the squares, place the squares right sides together and then sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line.

Then, you cut the unit apart on the drawn line and press the two parts open for two HSTs!

Making Flying Geese

Flying geese are another unit that has you sewing a bias seam. The most common method is using a rectangle and two squares. For example, for a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ flying geese unit, you start with a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ rectangle and two 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ squares.

To start,  draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the squares. Lay a square face down on the rectangle, stitch on the line and then trim the excess seam allowance. Press open.

Repeat the step on the other side of the rectangle for a finished flying geese unit.

Blocks to Make

Now that you know how to make these units, here’s some simple blocks to make for a quilt project.

Using flying geese in blocks:

Using HSTs in blocks:

Here’s some blocks where I have combined flying geese and HST units:

And those are just a few of the examples. There are many, many more combinations that will make stunning blocks.

So, that’s it for this week. If you are a beginner, I hope you learned something. If you are an experienced quilter, I hope you weren’t too bored. LOL! Next week, I plan on covering ways to make multiples of the HSTs and flying geese units so you can make a lot at once. Leave a comment and be entered into a drawing for my quilt pattern Posey Patch. 

You’ll get a lot of HST practice making this quilt! The drawing will be on Monday, October 5th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Linda Dunton!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Stitching Hacks to Keep You Quilting!

There are many stitching tips and hacks that I have shared over the years and hope they have helped you enjoy quilting more. It never hurts to review some of these! Here’s some of my favorites:

Tip #1 – Always use a 1/4″ seam!

You can not piece and enjoy quilting without an accurate 1/4″ seam. The best way to accomplish that is to use a 1/4″ foot on your machine.

To use the foot, line up the edge of piece you want to stitch with the right edge of the foot. However, don’t just assume that it’s a perfect 1/4″. Needle position and thickness of thread can effect the width of your seam. The best thing to do is test it. Sew a seam and then get your ruler out to measure.

If it measures correctly, your ready to sew to your heart’s content! If it doesn’t, sew a few more practice seams on scrap fabric moving the fabric a bit left or right depending on if your seam was too wide or not wide enough. Once you know where you should like up your fabric for piecing, you can mark it on your machine using a strip of painters tape as a guide.

Tip #2 – Another way to make half-square triangle (HST) squares!

Yes! There’s another way to make multiple HSTs. I covered the way to make 8 at a time in this blog post: Piecing Techniques – Half-square Triangle Squares. Now here’s a way to make four at a time if you want more variety in colors or if you don’t need quite so many HSTs. Start with two different color squares that are 1 1/2″ larger than the size HST you want. For example, if you want 2 1/2″ HSTs, you need to start with two 4″ squares. Place those squares right sides together and stitch 1/4″ in on all 4 sides.

Now, cut the sewn square diagonally in both directions as shown in the photos below.

Now press them open for four half-square triangle squares!

Tip #3 – We all have to do it… the dreaded unsewing!

So I know you probably don’t like stitch ripping or “unsewing” as we quilters like to say. Here’s a tip to help that go more smoothly and also save you from shredding precious fabric in the process. What I do is cut a stitch every 4 or 5 stitches in the middle of the seam and then gently pull apart the pieces.

The seam comes apart fairly easy and then all you have to do is finish the cutting the threads on each end of the unit.

It’s also important to be gentle when ripping seams out so the fabric is not stretched. Especially when you are ripping out seams on the bias.

Tip #4  – Measure block units for smooth piecing!

Finally, one of the most important tips I can give you is to measure block units as you go to make sure your block fits together smoothly and measures correctly when you are done. For example, an evening star block that is made up of a large center square, four flying geese units and 4 smaller squares could come our wonky if you do not measure your geese units when you are done.

Most patterns will tell you how each unit should measure when you are finished piecing it. Use this to verify your units measure correctly. That way, your blocks will always come out the correct size. It’s better to measure units as you go than having to rip the entire block apart… wouldn’t you agree?

Well, that’s all for now. Share in the comments tips you use or if there’s anything you’d like me to cover in an upcoming post. I’m always up for suggestions!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Half-Square Triangles Tips

Many quilt patterns, including my patterns, use half-square triangle square units to create the design. Do not be intimidated by these! Half-square triangle squares, or as quilters call them, HSTs, are really not that hard and come out accurately every time if you follow my tips.

Here’s one of my patterns that uses quite a few HSTs:

Posey Patch above even has two different sizes!

So here are some of my tips for making HSTs.

Tip #1: For most projects, I use the method of making HSTs that uses 2 squares, one color print and one tan print. In this example I’m using squares the size I need to make HSTs that measure 2 1/2″ . That would be squares either 2  7/8″ x 2  7/8″ OR, if you don’t mind wasting a tiny bit of fabric, you can start with squares that measure 3″ x 3″ to ensure you end up with squares the correct size after trimming.

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the tan print square:

Then place the tan print and the color print squares right sides together with the tan print square on top so the drawn line is visible.

Tip #2: Now comes the time to stitch. I like to stitch with a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line, especially if I am using squares cut with a 7/8″ measurement:

Using the scant 1/4″ distance guarantees your squares will not be too small when you press them open because you can always trim them.

Tip #3: Now we come to the trimming. Cut the above unit apart on the drawn line. You will have two units. Do not press them open yet. We will actually trim them before pressing. The great thing about that is you are only having to make two trimming cuts instead of have to trim all four sides individually!

Here’s the unit cut apart:

Then I use this awesome tool I like to use for the trimming. It’s called the Quilt in a Day® Triangle Square Up Ruler!

Here it is and how it works:

The numbers on the measurement lines are the size of the HST you want after it’s pressed open. Ours are going to be 2 1/2″ after trimming so we use the 2 1/2″ line on this ruler. First place the ruler on one of the units from above with the 2 1/2″ line on the stitch line:

Now you trim off the excess fabric on the two sides. Once you do this, you can press open the unit and here you are:

It’s that simple! Since each set of squares makes 2 HSTs, if you need 40 HSTs you need 20 squares of tan print and 20 squares of color print.

Earlier this year, I did a post on how to make 8 HSTs at a time! That would also come in handy for my Posey Patch quilt. Here’s how to do that:

Here is a method to make 8 HSTs at once. You use 2 squares like above, however they need to be twice the size as your finished square + 1 3/4″. For example, if you want 2″ finished HSTs, your starting squares need to be 5 3/4″ ( 2 x 2 = 4″ plus 1 3/4″).

Draw a diagonal line both ways on the wrong side of one of the squares and then lay your squares right sides together one on top of each other just like in the method above. Then stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of those drawn lines.

Once the stitching is done, cut the square apart as shown.

Next cut the smaller squares apart on the diagonal line:

Now you can trim each of these with the ruler shown above, press open and you have 8 HSTs!

So, I hope you found these tips helpful! Leave me a comment or ask a question and I will enter you in a drawing for my Posey Patch pattern! Drawing will be on Monday, December 9th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Rebecca!***