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The Joy of Appliqué

Hi Everyone! I am going to be traveling for the next few weeks for business and a little pleasure thrown in. I think it’s a good time to review my favorite tips and techniques for fabric hand appliqué. I know a lot of people are hesitant to try it because they think it’s too hard. But, if you start with a simple design with large pieces, it’s easy to pick up the skill. This will be a 3 part series.

Let’s get started with some of the basics.

What is Appliqué?

It’s from the French word appliquér meaning “to apply” or “to put on”. That’s what you are doing. You are applying a fabric motif to your quilt. Appliqué has been found on quilted items dating to the 9th century. But we’re going to talk about appliqué that is a bit more current.

Appliqué in the early17th to 19th centuries in American progressed from broderie perse style quilts, which are a medallion style quilt, to Baltimore Album style block quilts, with a different appliqué design in each block.

Appliqué in My Quilts

Sometimes I use appliqué as a unique way to dress up a quilt that I think needs just a little more and sometimes the appliqué is the “star” of the quilt. Here are two examples:

For Fan Dance on the left, I thought the quilt top needed a bit more, so I added the appliqué flowers in the borders to fill up the plain borders. For High Prairie Blooms on the right, the appliqué was planned as an integral part of the quilt design. Appliqué blocks were designed as an alternating block with the pieced churn dash star blocks.

Supplies You Will Needs

Now it’s time to get to the supplies you need for getting started on an appliqué project. Let’s start with my favorite supplies. Other hand-appliqué instructors may have different supply preferences. Feel free to try out all of the recommendations to see what works best for you.

Needles: These are an essential tool for hand appliqué. Finding the right needle for you is important. These are my favorite brand, John James Gold ‘n Glide:

These needles come in various lengths. The higher the number, the shorter the needle. I like size 9 because I feel it’s the right length for me. Test different size needles to see which length fits you best.  I’ve also found that this brand of needle glides easier through all types of fabric, including batiks. This is something you need to consider. If you have trouble getting your needle to go through the edge of your appliqué it could be because you are not using the right needle, that will make appliqué process more frustrating.

Also, change your needle often if you appliqué a lot. Needles will bend out of shape and also become dull with usage. A good rule of thumb is to use a new needle every time you start a new project. Another piece of advice is change your needle for every 10 hours of use, which could happen if you are working on a large project.

Threads: This is actually where a lot of designers have different advice. My favorite thread to use is a 100% silk-finished cotton thread. Here’s some of the threads I use:

I recommend matching your thread color as closely as possible to the color of the appliqué piece to help hide stitches. These threads, Mettler 50wt 100% silk-finished cotton, come in a large variety of colors and is my favorite brand.

Some stitchers like to use an array of neutral threads (right) from dark to light to stitch. They use darker neutrals on darker fabrics and lighter neutrals on lighter fabrics. Try it both ways to see what result you like best.

There are also appliquérs that recommend 100% silk thread because it is finer and the stitches are easier to hide. I have found it to be too thin for my liking, but give it a try and see if you like it.

Other Tools: Here are two other items I can’t live without. Roxanne’s Glue Baste-it and Sewline brand marking pencils.

This glue replaces the pins I used in the past to secure my appliqué pieces. I’ve been doing hand appliqué for over 30 years and have had many finger sticks from appliqué pins over those years.

As for the Sewline marking pencil, this is a mechanical type pencil with chalk lead. The lead comes in a variety of colors (white, pink, green, and yellow) so you can see the markings on all colors of fabric. It’s erasable and completely disappears with a bit of water on a Q-tip. The glue is also water soluble so the Q-tip trick will work to get rid of any glue residue that ends up on your background fabric.

Good Lighting: Finally, good lighting is essential when you are doing hand appliqué. If you want to keep your stitches as small as possible so they are almost invisible, you need to have good light to see and, in some cases, a magnifier on that light. Here’s my desk top light:

I also have a floor lamp by my TV chair if I decide to stitch while watching TV. That one also has a magnifier.

Other items like scissors (both for fabric and paper), for working with templates and appliqué pieces, and rulers, for positioning the pieces of your appliqué motif, come in handy.

Preparation

Now we move on to the preparation where I will talk about the templates for the design, using the templates and preparing the fabric appliqués for stitching. 

Templates: The first thing to learn about when beginning to appliqué is the templates: what they are and how to work with them. Templates are what you use to create the individual pieces of an appliqué motif.

I recommend copying the pages onto card stock and cutting out the templates to make them sturdier. That’s what I did with the templates on the right, below. If you don’t have a way to copy them directly to card stock, you can glue the paper page to a piece of card stock and then cut out the shapes.

This makes the templates more sturdy so when you are tracing the shapes onto the fabric, the templates don’t lose their shape from repeated use. You can also store the reusable templates in the pattern bag with the pattern for when you want to make the project again.

Tracing onto Fabric: The next step is to trace your shapes onto the fabric designated for the appliqué piece, using the templates. For fabric appliqué, the templates are traced on the right side of the fabric. Most templates in patterns are ready to use at 100%, as they are in all my patterns, but be sure to check the templates if you are using another designer’s appliqué pattern to see if there is anything you need to do before using their templates.

Some patterns will tell you to also trace a template “reversed” which just means to flip it over and trace some that way. This usually happens with non-symmetrical shapes or shapes that are used both ways.

My example below shows the method I use. Trace around the template and leave at least 1/2″ between tracings if you are tracing several of the same shape on the same piece of fabric. For needle-turn appliqué, you need this space to cut out the shapes with enough fabric to turn under while stitching, as opposed to machine appliqué techniques that require no seam allowance for turn-under.

Preparing the Appliqué for Stitching: Next step after tracing is to cut out the shapes and prepare them for stitching to the quilt block or top.

Cut the shapes out a scant 1/4″ outside the drawn line. This creates the seam allowance that is turned under when stitching. Then, use your scissors to make clips into the seam allowance up to, but not over, the drawn line (last photo). 

The clips in the seam allowance make it easier to turn under the seam in sections to help keep the original shape of the appliqué piece. The curvier an area of the appliqué piece, the closer together your clips should be and there should be more clips than you would have on a straight side.

That’s all for the supplies and prep work to start a fabric appliqué project. Next week I will cover motif layout. Here’s a mini video tutorial that covers some of the things I talked about here.

Leave a comment below with your tips or some questions. I will collect these over the next 3 weeks and enter you into a drawing for my newest pattern (it’s not out yet!) Starfire:

There will also be a pack of needles and a mini Roxanne’s glue along with the pattern. The drawing will be on Monday, March 30th after the appliqué series is done, so you  have 3 weeks to enter. ***We have a winner! Congrats, Donna Logan!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Hand Appliqué Tutorial – Part 1

Hi! Welcome back! I’m glad you’ve decided to go on this needle-turn hand appliqué journey. Whether you are a beginner or experienced, I hope the instructions and tips I provide are the spark you need to create a beautiful appliqué quilt! 

Like I said last in last week’s post, this will be a 3 part series and there are some mini video tutorials that I will post each week that support the information I provide. I also said we would be working on a fun block design that you can use at the end to make a pillow, small table topper, or make more of the blocks and make a larger quilt. Here’s the block we will be making:

I created a class handout that gives basic instructions and includes the templates for this block. Click here for the instructions: Bloom Block. So, let’s get started!

Supplies and Preparation

I do all my fabric appliqué by hand so that’s what I am going to cover in this tutorial. However, many of my tips are helpful if you decide to do machine appliqué. The templates definitely can be used for either hand or machine appliqué. If you are interested in learning machine appliqué, do a Google search or a search on YouTube because there are many accomplished instructors for this method.

On to supplies… these are my favorite supplies. Other hand-appliqué instructors may have other preferences. Feel free to try all of the recommendations out to see what fits best for you.

Needles: These are an essential tool for hand appliqué. Finding the right needle for you is important. These are my favorite brand, John James Gold ‘n Glide:

These needles come in various lengths. The higher the number, the shorter the needle. I like size 9 because I feel it’s the right length for me. Test different size needles to see which length fits you best.  I’ve also found that this brand of needle glides easier through all types of fabric, including batiks. This is something you need to consider. If you have trouble getting your needle to go through the edge of your appliqué because you are not using a good needle, that will make appliqué process more frustrating.

Also, change your needle often if you appliqué a lot. Needles will bend out of shape and also become dull with usage. A good rule of thumb is to use a new needle every time you start a new project. Another piece of advice is change your needle for every 10 hours of use, which could happen if you are working on a large project.

Threads: This is actually where a lot of designers have different advice. My favorite thread to use is a 100% cotton thread. Here’s some of the threads I use:

I like Mettler brand 50 wt, 100% cotton with a silk finish. The silk finish helps it to glide through the fabric easier and there are a lot of different colors if you like to match your threads to the color of each appliqué piece. Some people doing appliqué prefer to use silk thread but I find those to be too thin for my liking. We’ll talk about color matching in a later post.

Other Tools: Here are two other items I can’t live without. Roxanne’s Glue Baste-it and Sewline brand marking pencils.

I love this glue because it replaced the pins I needed to secure my appliqué pieces. I’ve been doing hand appliqué for almost 30 years and have had many finger sticks from appliqué pins over those years. As for the Sewline marking pencil, this is a mechanical type pencil with chalk lead. The lead comes in a variety of colors (white, pink, green, and yellow) so the markings show up on all colors of fabric. It’s erasable and completely disappears with a bit of water on a Q-tip. The glue is also water soluble so the Q-tip trick will work to get rid of any glue residue that ends up on your background fabric.

Good Lighting: Finally, good lighting is essential when you are doing hand appliqué. If you want to keep your stitches as small as possible so they are almost invisible, you need to have good light to see and, in some cases, a magnifier on that light. I have a desk top light and a floor light, for when I am sewing in my TV chair.

Other items like scissors (both for fabric and paper) for working with templates and appliqué pieces and rulers for positioning appliqués come in handy.

Let’s Begin!

Templates: The first thing to learn about when beginning to appliqué is the templates: what they are and how to work with them. Templates are what you use to create the individual pieces of an appliqué motif.

Some patterns may come with already prepared, die-cut templates but most patterns will have the templates printed on the pattern pages (left photo, below) for you. These are some of the templates from the Bloom Block pattern we will be working on.

I recommend copying the pages onto card stock and cutting out the templates to make them sturdier. That’s what I did with the templates on the right, below. I you don’t have a way to copy them directly to card stock, you can glue the paper page to a piece of card stock and then cut out the shapes.

This makes the templates more sturdy so when you are tracing the shapes onto the fabric, the templates don’t lose their shape from repeated use. You can also store the reusable templates in the pattern bag with the pattern for when you want to make the project again.

Tracing: The next step is to trace your shapes onto the fabric designated for the appliqué piece, using the templates. For needle-turn appliqué, the templates are traced on the right side of the fabric. Most templates are usually ready to use and at 100% , as they are in all my patterns, but be sure to check the other appliqué patterns you decide to do to make sure those templates are.

Some patterns will tell you to also trace a template “reversed” which just means to flip it over and trace some that way. This usually happens with non-symmetrical shapes or shapes that are used both ways.

My example below shows the method I use. Trace around the template and leave at least 1/2″ between tracings if you are tracing several of the same shape on the same piece of fabric. For needle-turn appliqué, you need this space to cut out the shapes with enough fabric to turn under while stitching, as opposed to machine appliqué technique that requires no seam allowance for turn-under.

Preparing the Appliqué for Stitching: Next step after tracing is to cut out the shapes and prepare them for stitching to the quilt block or top.

Cut the shapes out a scant 1/4″ outside the drawn line. This creates the seam allowance that is turned under when stitching. Then, use your scissors to make clips into the seam allowance up to, but not over, the drawn line (last photo). 

The clips in the seam allowance make it easier to turn under the seam in sections to help keep the original shape of the appliqué piece. The curvier an area of the appliqué piece, the closer together your clips should be and there should be more clips than you would have on a straight side.

That’s it for this week! Your homework is to follow the steps in this blog post so you are ready for next week when we work on preparing the background and laying out the motif. We’ll also do some stitching.

Meanwhile, here is the mini video tutorial covering what I talked about today.

Leave a comment or ask a question below and you will be entered into a drawing for my appliqué gift pack!

The drawing will be on Monday, August 19th.***We have a winner! Congrats, Karen Addleman!***

See you next week for the second installment!

Happy Quilting, 
Deanne

Wool Appliqué Mini Class – Part 1

Welcome to the beginning of my wool appliqué mini class! I hope this class will inspire you to start a wool appliqué project if you are a beginner. And if you are an experienced stitcher, maybe you’ll pick up a few tips. This 3-part series is based on the class I teach when I teach wool appliqué in workshops. I thought it would be fun to share with a wider audience.

My wool appliqué may be different from the one you are familiar with because, as I mentioned last week, I do mine on a fabric background instead of wool. Some of my tips might not apply to those of you who do your wool appliqué onto other types of fabrics. Now that I’ve finished introducing the series, let’s get started!

Where to Begin

This week’s post will cover the basics from preparing templates and the background fabric to actually using the templates. I will also share some of my favorite tools and tips along with my mini video tutorials to demonstrate some of the things I talk about.

After collecting the fabric and wool required for your projects, the place to start with any wool appliqué pattern is the template page or pages that will be used to create the appliqué motif. Like I talked about last week, if you plan to use the pattern multiple times it’s best not to cut the templates out. To create reusable templates, I like to make a copy of the template page onto card stock and then cut them out using a scissors (designated for paper only of course!).

If you do not have a printer that also copies or do not have access to a copier, trace the templates onto plain paper and glue that paper to a piece of card stock. This reinforces the templates like this so I can use them multiple times without them losing their shape. You can also use other kinds of materials to reinforce your templates. Here are some of my templates:

My templates are marked with how many of each of the shapes are needed and from what color wool to cut them from. If  your pattern does not have them pre-marked like mine, it’s a good idea to write this information on your reinforced templates. Easy storage for your templates after use is in a bag attached to the pattern or, if they are small enough, slipped into the bag with the pattern. 

Once your templates are prepared and ready to use, it’s time to trace the templates onto fusible web. I use Heat n’ Bond Feather Lite for my fusible. Test out different brands of fusible if you like to see which one you like the best.

I like this Feather Lite version of Heat n’ Bond because it’s very light and I have not noticed it adding any bulk to my appliqué pieces or making them more difficult to stitch.

Trace the templates onto the fusible using a regular or mechanical pencil. Make sure to trace onto the paper side of the fusible web. If you have a template that is not symmetrical, you need to reverse that template before tracing since the fusible side of the shape is the side that will be face down on your background. For this example, I want the handle of the flower pot below to face to the left on the project so, the template is flipped with the handle facing to the right for tracing onto the fusible. 

Read your pattern carefully before tracing. Most patterns today include templates that are at 100% (no enlarging needed) and already reversed for use. However, you may run across a pattern where you have to enlarge the template on a copier or reverse it before use. 

When tracing the shapes, make sure to leave enough space to cut them out outside the drawn lines by a bit. (left photo, below) I don’t like to cut the fusible shapes out right on the line because I use that line later when cutting the wool shapes out after fusing. If you have several shapes that are traced from the same piece of wool, you can trace them closer together and cut them out in a group. (right photo, below) Then follow the lines to cut out the individual pieces after fusing to the wool, like the leaves below. It’s a good idea to do this because wool is expensive and you don’t want to waste it!

Here are all the template shapes for my project traced onto the fusible, cut out and ready to fuse to the  pieces of wool designated in the pattern:

Preparing the Background

Now that you have all the templates traced and cut from the fusible, it’s time to get your background fabric prepared. Here are the steps:

Step 1:  Like I talked about in my tip post last week, I like to reinforce the edges of the fabric with Fray Check. This is an optional step that you can skip if you like. I do it to prevent the edges of the background from fraying into the seam allowance from all the handling while stitching.

Step 2: Next, define your stitching space. I like to measure in 1/2″ from all sides and draw a line. The space inside those lines is where the design will be laid out and stitched. If your background is cut bigger and will be trimmed down after stitching, measure in 3/4″ in on all sides. 

By defining the space ahead of time, you won’t accidentally stitch some of your design into the seam allowance where it will be cut off when you sew the blocks together. I keep the design 1/4″ away from the drawn line as well to be safe.

Step 3: Finally, I like to draw lines or make fold lines in the background to act as a guide for laying out my appliqué motif.

If you don’t want to fold and do creases, use a ruler and a fabric marking pencil and lightly draw those quadrant lines. I also placed a “dot” in the center of the block as a point of reference.

Here’s my mini video series on wool appliqué that covers some of the things I talked about in this post for those of you who are more visual learners like me.

 

Leave a comment or ask questions below and I will enter you into a drawing for my kit, Sew with Friends. This kit includes the pattern and wool, you provide your own fabric. 

The drawing will be on Monday, May 6th after the third post in this series. So you have a lot of time to enter. Good Luck and see you next week!We have a winner! Congrats, Karen H.!

Happy Stitching!
Deanne

Wool Appliqué for the Beginner – Part 1

Welcome to wool appliqué class! As you can see by a lot of the patterns I sell in my shop, I love to design and make wool appliqué quilts. Some stitchers do their wool appliqué on wool backgrounds, but I do my wool appliqué on plain and pieced fabric backgrounds. That’s why I want to do this 3 part series so I can share my tips for my style of wool appliqué. So let’s get started.

The Beginning Steps

This week, we cover the basics from preparing templates and the background fabric to actually using the templates. I will also share some of my favorite tools and tips along with my mini video tutorials to demonstrate some of the things I talk about.

After collecting the fabric and wool required for your projects, the place to start with any wool appliqué pattern is the template page or pages that will be used to create the appliqué motif. If you plan to use the pattern multiple times, it’s best not to cut the templates out. To create reusable templates, I like to make a copy of the template page onto card stock and then cut them out using a scissors (designated for paper only of course!).

If you do not have a printer that also copies or do not have access to a copier, trace the templates onto plain paper and glue that paper to a piece of card stock. I like reinforcing the templates like this so I can use them multiple times without them losing their shape. You can also use other kinds of materials to reinforce your templates. Here are some of my templates:

Cut the templates from the card stock using a scissors meant to cut paper. My templates are marked with how many of each the shapes are needed and from what color wool. If  your pattern does not have them pre-marked like mine, it’s a good idea to write this information on your reinforced templates. Easy storage for your templates after use is in a bag attached to the pattern or, if they are small enough, slipped into the bag with the pattern. 

Once your templates are prepared and ready to use, it’s time to trace the templates onto fusible web. I use Heat n’ Bond Feather Lite for my fusible. Test out different brands of fusible if you like to see which one you like the best.

I like this Feather Lite version of Heat n’ Bond because it’s very light and I have not noticed it adding any bulk to my appliqué pieces or making them more difficult to stitch.

Trace the templates onto the fusible using a regular or mechanical pencil. Make sure to trace onto the paper side of the fusible web. If you have a template that are not symmetrical, you need to reverse that template before tracing since the fusible side of the shape is the side that will be face down on your background. For this example, I want the handle of the flower pot below to face to the left on the project so, the template is flipped with the handle facing to the right for tracing onto the fusible. 

Read your pattern carefully before tracing. Most patterns today include templates that are at 100% and already reversed for use. However, you may run across a pattern where you have to enlarge the template on a copier or reverse it before use. 

When tracing the shapes, make sure to leave enough space to cut them out outside the drawn lines by a bit. (left photo, below) I don’t like to cut the fusible shapes out right on the line because I use that line later when cutting the wool shapes out after fusing. If you have several shapes that are traced from the same piece of wool, you can trace them closer together and cut them out in a group. (right photo, below) Then follow the lines to cut out the individual pieces, like the leaves below. It’s a good idea to do this because wool is expensive and you don’t want to waste it!

Here are all the template shapes for my project traced onto the fusible, cut out and ready to fuse to the  pieces of wool designated in the pattern:

Preparing the Background

Now that you have all the templates traced and cut from the fusible, it’s time to get your background fabric prepared. Here are the steps:

Step 1:  I like to reinforce the edges of the block with Fray Check. This is an optional step that you can skip if you like. I do it to prevent the edges of the background from fraying into the seam allowance from all the handling while stitching.

Step 2: Next, define your stitching space. I like to measure in 1/2″ from all sides and draw a line. The space inside those lines is where the design will be laid out and stitched.

By defining the space ahead of time, you won’t accidently stitch some of your design into the seam allowance where it will be cut off when you sew the blocks together. I do 1/2″ on all sides so it keeps the design 1/4″ away from the seam allowance.

Step 3: Finally, I like to draw lines or make fold lines in the background to act as a guide for laying out my appliqué motif.

If you don’t want to fold and do creases, use a ruler and a fabric marking pencil and lightly draw those quadrant lines. I also placed a “dot” in the center of the block as a point of reference.

My mini video series on wool appliqué that covers some of the things I talked about in this post appears at the end of this post for those of you who are more visual learners like me.

That is all for this week and part 1 of wool appliqué tips for beginners. Leave me a comment or ask me questions below and be entered into a drawing for two of my newest mini wool appliqué patterns, Snugg-let Winter Friends and Snugg-let Sew with Friends.

The drawing will be at the end of this series on Monday, November 13th. So, you have 3 weeks to enter! **We have a winner! Congrats, Diana DeWitt!**

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

 

Wool Appliqué Made Easy! – Part 1

Hi! Over the next 3 weeks I will be sharing my wool appliqué series. I will be traveling for a few weeks, so I thought this would be a good time to do a review of this fun technique. You can bet I will have several wool appliqué projects with me to keep me stitching!

This week, we cover the basics from preparing templates and the background fabric to actually using the templates. I will also share some of my favorite tools and tips along with my mini video tutorials to demonstrate some of the things I talk about. Please still comment and ask questions. I will be checking in on my blog daily and answering questions. Let’s get started!

The First Steps

When you open up a wool appliqué pattern, there will be a template page or pages of templates that will be used to create the appliqué motif. If you plan to use the pattern multiple times, it’s best not to cut the templates out. To create reusable templates, I like to make a copy of the template page onto cardstock and then cut them out using a scissors (designated for paper only of course!).

If you do not have a printer that also copies or do not have access to a copier, trace the templates onto plain paper and glue that paper to a piece of card stock. I like reinforcing the templates like this so I can use them multiple times without them losing their shape. You can also use other kinds of materials to reinforce your templates.

Here are card stock templates that are ready to use:

Cut the templates from the card stock using the paper scissors. My templates are marked with how many of each the shapes are needed and from what color wool. If  your pattern does not have them pre-marked like mine, it’s a good idea to write this information on your reinforced templates. Easy storage for your templates after use is in a bag attached to the pattern or, if they are small enough, slipped into the bag with the pattern. 

What do you do once you have the templates prepared? Time to use them to trace your appliqué  shapes onto fusible web. My favorite brand is Heat n’ Bond Feather Lite.

It’s the right weight and I have not noticed it adding any stiffness to the wool or any difficulty stitching through it. Feel free to experiment with the assortment of fusibles on the market to see which one you like best.

Trace the templates onto the fusible using your regular or mechanical pencil. Make sure to trace onto the paper side of the fusible web. If you have any templates that are not symmetrical, you need to reverse that template before tracing since the fusible will be fused onto the back side of the wool. For this example, I want the handle of the flower pot below to face to the left on the project so, the template is flipped for tracing.

Many patterns today will print the templates in the pattern at 100% and all ready reversed for your use. Just make sure to read the pattern and look at the photo of the quilt sample to make sure you are tracing your templates correctly.

When tracing the shapes, make sure to leave enough space to cut them out outside the drawn lines by a bit. I don’t like to cut the fusible shapes out right on the line because I use the line later when cutting the wool pieces out. 

The photo on the left shows how close you can trace templates. If you have templates, like the leaves on the right, that are all from the same color wool, you can cut them out of the fusible as a group and fuse them that way. Then follow the lines to cut out the individual leaves. It’s a good idea to do this because wool is expensive and you don’t want to waste it!

Here are photos of all my templates traced onto the fusible, cut out outside the lines and ready to use:

Preparing the Background

Now that you have all the templates traced and cut from the fusible, it’s time to get your background fabric prepared. Here are the steps:

Step 1:  I like to reinforce the edges of the block with Fray Check. This is an optional step that you can skip if you like. I do it to prevent the edges of the background from fraying into the seam allowance from all the handling while stitching.

Step 2: Next, define your stitching space. I like to measure in 1/2″ from all sides and draw a line. The space inside those lines is where the design will be laid out and stitched.

By defining the space ahead of time, you won’t accidently stitch some of your design into the seam allowance where it will be cut off when you sew the blocks together. I do 1/2″ on all sides so it keeps the design 1/4″ away from the seam allowance.

Step 3: Finally, I like to draw lines or make fold lines in the background to act as a guide for laying out my appliqué motif.

If you don’t want to fold and do creases, use a ruler and a fabric marking pencil and lightly draw those quadrant lines. I also placed a “dot” in the center of the block as a point of reference.

Here’s part 1 of my mini video series on wool appliqué that covers some of the things I talked about in this post. 

That’s it for part 1. Come back next Monday, September 26th for part 2! Leave comments or ask questions below and you will be entered into a drawing for my Pumpkin Patch Wool kit. This kit includes the pattern and the wool, you supply your favorite fabric.

The drawing will be on Monday, October 10th.***We have a winner! Congrats, Carol!***

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne