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When the Quilting is Done

You have pieced the quilt and it’s been quilted, whether by hand or machine, so now what’s next? It’s time to think of the finishes. Binding, labeling, and a hanging sleeve. These are some things that tend to be afterthoughts when making your quilt, but you should include these in planning the project. These are all important parts of the quilt even if that’s not what someone pays attention to when they see it. I’ll cover these things in this week’s post and give you tips on adding them to your quilt. Let’s go!

Labeling

I confess… I’m guilty of skipping this step at times, especially if I am keeping the quilt for myself. But here’s why I think you should always label your quilts. So many quilts I look at in books say “quilt maker unknown”. I wonder who made the quilt? Who was it for? What was the occasion? You do not want that to happen to the quilts you make. They are part of your family history.

I inherited a few family quilts that did not have any labels on them. Luckily, I was able to get some information from a family member, who has since passed, and made labels for them. Now anyone in the family who inherits the quilt from me will know who made these quilts and the approximate date they were made. That’s great information to have.

In the years since I acquired those quilts, I have begun to label my quilts more. The labels can be as simple as your name and the date the quilt was made or it can be a detailed description.

Here’s one of my simple labels:

I used a pen made for fabric to write the quilt information directly on the backing. This is the easiest method. Be sure not to press hard with the pen so the ink bleeds to the front. And be sure you are using a pen that is safe for fabric.

I’ve also made labels that are more involved, like this label for my daughter’s high school graduation quilt using printable fabric:

I included her name, year she graduated and the activities she was involved in. If you don’t want to do that, you can perhaps include words to a poem or write your own tribute to the receiver of the quilt. You can find these fabric labels, that run through your home printer, sold at most quilt shops.

You can also just attach a fabric piece to the back of the quilt and then write on it with the fabric pen instead of using your printer. Here’s a tip to make those labels even more securely attached: sew it into the binding on two of the sides! Here is one I did:

Above left photo shows how the label, pinned in place on the lower corner of the quilt, is secured on the back as you machine stitch the binding on the front. The next photo shows the two sides secured by the binding so now all you have to do is hand stitch the other two sides and you’re done! You can do this with any piece of scrap fabric and make it into a label.

Hanging Sleeves

Adding a hanging sleeve (sometimes called a rod pocket) to the back of a wall hanging or larger quilt is the best way to easily display it. The sleeve also serves to hang the quilt smoothly and helps to avoid stressing any one side of the quilt. Once the sleeve is there, you can use about any item to hang your quilt like curtain rods, wire quilt hangers, and even yardsticks! Here’s some I have hanging:

The hanging sleeve can be partially attached like the label, by sewing one side of it while you attach the binding to the from of the quilt.

All you need to start is to cut a 2 1/2″ strip of fabric about 1 or 2″ shorter than the width of your quilt and hem it 1/4″ on each end. 

Lay the prepared strip, right side up, on the back of the quilt aligning it with the top edge and pin in place (photo on left). Then proceed to pin and stitch the binding to the front. The top of the sleeve will be stitched to the back at the same time (center photo). Finally, turn under the bottom raw edge, pin and hand stitch (photo on right). Easy, right?

Binding

The final finish! By the time quilters get to the binding they usually are just ready to be done and may not put too much thought into it. Actually I confess I sometimes feel that way too. I just want to be finished and get the quilt gifted or start using it. But, here’s a few things to consider: the color, the type, and how much fabric you need.

Color: when considering the color of the binding, consider whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. The binding can act as a frame for your quilt if you want it to. Here’s an example of that:

Now for this next quilt, I kept the binding color the same as the quilt top background so your eye is drawn to the appliqué instead.

Type: Now you need to consider the type of binding for your quilt: single-fold or double-fold. Single-fold binding is made up of strips, usually 1 1/2″ wide, and attached to the quilt top in a single layer. Double-fold binding is made up of strips at least 2 1/4″ wide and is pressed in half before it is attached to the quilt top (see photo below). I will use single-fold binding on things like table runners and wall hangings. I use double-fold binding on larger quilts because it tends to be sturdier for a quilt that will be handled more.

Fabric Needs: How do you figure out how much binding you need for a quilt top? Here’s some handy steps:

  1. Figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation:   60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
  2. Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
  3. Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65.  I always round up, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
  4. Multiply the strip amount by the size of the strips needed. If I am making double-fold binding, I use 2 1/4″ strips so: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

Some Final Tips for binding:

Tip #1: Cut away the excess batting and backing from the quilted quilt before attaching the binding. However when you are cutting away the excess, leave a scant 1/8″.

This helps you to achieve a “full” binding. This little bit serves to stuff the binding as you turn it to the back for stitching.

Tip #2: Start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. Pin one side at a time for stitching. Once you get to the corner on the first side you have pinned, measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. This is a step you need to do before you turn the corner with your binding and continue onto the next side.

Tip #3: When stitching this side, start stitching and stop at the pin that marks 1/4″ from the edge. Doing this helps when making the mitered corner as you turn the binding to continue onto the next side. If you are using double-fold binding, don’t start stitching right at the top of the binding. You want to leave a little “pocket” to slip the end of the binding in once you are done. 

Tip #4: Hand stitching the binding to the back is easier with these handy clips. They’re actually the hair clips my daughter used to use when she was in high school. These types of clips are now sold in many quilt shops for this use.

Tip #5: How to get a nice mitered corner when hand stitching the binding is something that seems to elude many quilters. Here’s how I do it.

When I get to the corner, I pin the two sides of the binding as shown in the photo on the left. Then I hand stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges and stitch up the diagonal “seam” created (center photo). I will then feed my needle back down that seam in the fabric and start stitching the next side. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front! With practice, your corners will start to look like this!

As a bonus, here’s my binding video tutorial covering how to make double-fold binding and the steps to attach it to the quilt top.

I hope this was a helpful refresher for you experience quilters and a great learning experience for the beginners among us. Share your comments and questions below. I will choose a winner among the commenters to receive a copy of my newest pattern: Star Dash.

The drawing will be on Monday, March 13th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Julie!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Binding the Quilt – Final Touch!

I have a confession. Binding the quilt is one of my least favorite tasks in quilting. I think it’s because I am so excited that my quilt is done and I want to get binding out of the way as fast as possible. Besides the label, binding is the final touch to your quilt. It actually is something that shouldn’t be an afterthought since is acts as a frame for your creation. I am going to cover my favorite binding tips and share my binding tutorial video. I also have some tips for figuring how much binding you need. Let’s get started!

Tip#1 – What Kind of Binding?

The first thing I do when I am ready to bind the quilt top is to decide which type of binding I want: single-fold or double-fold.

Single-fold binding is a binding that is only a one layer of fabric pieced from strips. The binding laid face down on the front of the quilt top, lined up with the raw edges, machine stitched and then turned to the back to hand stitch in place (photo below).

Double-fold binding is made from wider cut strips that are pieced together and pressed in half before attaching it to the front of the quilt. when it is turned to the back to be stitched, there are two layers of fabric on the edge of the quilt. Obviously, double-fold binding is more durable.

Tip#2 – Choose the Color

The color is an important consideration too. Do you want the binding to “disappear” or do you want it to act as a frame for the quilt? Sometimes if I have a busy border, especially one with appliqué, I like to match the binding color to the fabric in the border so the viewer’s eye is drawn to my appliqué. Here’s an example:

The background fabric of the border on the above quilt is black so I made the binding black to make it appear invisible. However, on this other appliqué quilt below, I used a darker binding to create a frame for the quilt:

On a quilt that has no appliqué and just has a pieced or plain border, I usually like to choose a color that compliments the blocks in the quilt and acts as a frame. For this quilt below, I chose a dark blue binding as a final “frame”.

I have also matched the binding to the background fabric of the pieced border so the border stands out (photo below).

Tip#3 – How to Figure Amount of Binding Needed

Instead of guessing how much fabric you need for binding, here is the formula I use to figure out how many strips I need to cut to make it the right length. You can use this formula for both single-fold and double-fold binding. I like to assume 40″ width of fabric for my formula to account for the varying widths of fabrics. If your fabric width is wider, you can adjust the formula or you will just have some binding left over.

  1. Figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation:   60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
  2. Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used when turning the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
  3. Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips are needed. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65.  I always round up, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
  4. Multiply the strip amount by the size of the strips needed. If I am making double-fold binding, I use 2 1/4″ strips so: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

Tip#4 – Preparing the Quilt for Binding

Cut away the excess batting and backing from the quilted quilt. However when you are cutting away the excess backing and batting from the quilted project, leave a scant 1/8″ (photos below). Since the binding is pinned to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as a guide, when the binding is turned to the back that scant 1/8″ serves to “stuff” the binding. Achieving a full binding is another reason why I cut my binding strips for double-fold binding 2 1/4″ instead of 2 1/2″. If your binding is too wide’ when you fold it over to the back it will be empty at the top of the fold and that can make binding look flat.

Tip #5 – Attaching the Binding

Start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. Pin one side at a time for stitching. Once you get to the corner on the first side you have pinned, measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. This is a step you need to do before you turn the corner with your binding and continue onto the next side.

When stitching this side, start stitching and stop at the pin that marks 1/4″ from the edge. Doing this helps when making the mitered corner as you turn the binding to continue onto the next side. If you are using double-fold binding, don’t start stitching right at the top of the binding. You want to leave a little “pocket” to slip in the end of the binding once you are done. 

The photo above shows I started stitching about 1/2″ below the binding opening.

In the video tutorial below, I demonstrate stitching the first side to the 1/4″ mark and then how to turn the corner with the binding to start stitching the second side. It’s easier to watch me do it than for me to try to explain it in writing. That demo starts at about the 14 minute mark of the video.

Final Tip – Hand Stitching the Binding to the Back

I turn the binding to the back and secure it with hair clips I stole from my daughter once she quit using them. Addie likes to watch this step…

And how about that mitered corner? Here’s a few photos on stitching that corner. When I get to the corner, I pin the two sides of the binding as shown in the first photo. Then I stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges. I then stitch up the diagonal “fold” created. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front!

Video Tutorial

Since it’s a little hard to describe how to make binding, especially double-fold, and attach it, I made this video tutorial on this very subject. Hopefully viewing this video will help you learn to make double-fold binding or give you a refresher!

That’s it for this week! I hope these tips I shared on binding make it less of a chore and more a step you look forward to. Leave a comment or ask questions in the comments below and you will be entered into a drawing for my new pattern, Sunset Sky.

The drawing will be on Monday, April 25th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Kailah Eglington!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Binding Tips to Help You Finish that Quilt!

Let’s talk about binding. It’s the last thing, along with the label, that you will do to finish the quilt. You want that binding to compliment the quilt, not detract from it. Think of the binding as the final “frame”. In this post, I will talk about how to choose the color for your binding, what type of binding to use and how you make that binding. Finally, I’ll talk about attaching it to the quilt. I also have a brand new tutorial that I did describing how to make binding and how to attach it to your quilt. Let’s get started!

Binding Color – How to Choose

How do I choose my binding color? It depends on whether I want it to stand out or to fade into the background. Some quilters use binding for an additional frame for their design and want it to stand out. Here’s an example of that:

I used a dark color binding on this quilt because I liked how it frames the whole quilt like a picture. On this next quilt, I wanted to keep the binding the same color as the background because I wanted the quilt and the applique to be the star.

I think if I had used a contrasting binding, it would have competed with the quilt and might have detracted from the applique and design. Sometimes I add a little “pizzazz” to matching binding by choosing a fabric with a bit more larger print than the background. However, on this quilt I chose to use the same fabric as the background fabric to have it completely disappear.

Finally, you can also have a bit of fun by using scrappy binding. Save leftover scraps of all the color prints you are using in the quilt top and cut binding strips from an assortment.

This is a playful option I like to use on scrap quilts, especially fun table runners or wall hangings.

Single-fold or Double-fold?

You next decision is single-fold or double-fold binding. Also, whether you will cut the strips on the bias or straight. I use straight strips on square and rectangular quilt tops and bias strips if my quilt top has scallops or curved edges. You can use bias binding on all your quilt tops if you want, just remember that fabric cut on the bias has more stretch, which is good for curved edges but might not be the best for straight sides. 

Single-fold Binding: Single-fold binding is single strips of fabric, usually joined by a bias seam, stitched to the front of the quilt top and then turned to the back and stitched down to “close” the quilt sandwich. I use 1 1/2″ strips. I like to use this type of binding on wall hangings, table runners and other small projects. It’s less bulky for small projects. 

Double-fold Binding: My double-fold binding is made from  2 1/4 or 2 1/2″ strips, seamed together on the bias and then pressed in half lengthwise for a double thickness. I like to use this type of bindings on lap size or larger quilts. Mostly because those quilts tend to get handled more and I think double-fold binding is more durable.

Bonus Tip: When I am working with a long strip of binding for a big quilt, I like to keep it under control by winding it around a left-over toilet paper roll and securing it with a large pin or secured with a large binder clip. Then as I am pinning and stitching the binding to the quilt top, I just unwind the amount I need as I go and the rest does not end up as a tangled mess!

Binding the Quilt Top

Step #1: Now it’s time to prepare the freshly quilted quilt for binding. Here’s a few optional tips on achieving a nice, full binding:

Tip #1: When you are cutting away the excess backing and batting from the quilted project, leave a scant 1/8″. Once I do that, I then pin the binding to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as my guide.

Tip #2: Having your double-fold binding strips cut at 2 1/4 or 2 1/8″ wide, instead of 2 1/2″ wide, helps to make it fuller. If your binding is too wide, when you fold it over to the back, it will be empty at the top of the fold and that can make binding look flat.

Step #2: Time to pin the binding to the quilt top. Start pinning on a straight edge at least 6″ from a corner. Pin one side at a time for stitching. Once you get to the corner on the first side you have pinned, measure 1/4″ up from the edge of the quilt top and pin the binding there. This is a step you need to do before you turn the corner with your binding and continue onto the next side.

Once you are done pinning one side, it’s time to go to the sewing machine. If you are using double-fold binding, don’t start stitching right at the top of the binding. You want to leave a little “pocket” to slip in the end of the binding once you are done.

Below is a link to my tutorial video that walks you though all the steps I talked about above including joining the strips to make the binding. It’s a bit longer than some of my other tutorials because binding has lots of steps. But, I think it’s very helpful!

The final step in binding the quilt top is stitching it to the back. I turn the binding to the back and secure it with hairclips I stole from my daughter once she quit using them.

And how about that mitered corner? Here’s a few photos on stitching that corner. When I get to the corner, I pin the two sides of the binding as shown in the first photo. Then I stitch up to that corner catching both folded edges. I then stitch up the diagonal “fold” created. As you can see in the last photo, it makes a perfect mitered corner on the front!

Well, that’s it for this week. I hope what I shared on binding was helpful. Please ask questions in the comments if you have any. Leave a comment and you will be in a drawing for this nice set of binding clips, so you don’t have to scavenge for hair clips around the house!

The drawing will be on Monday, March 15th. ***We have a winner! Congrats, Norma J!***

Happy quilting & binding!
Deanne

Binding Tips for Busy Quilters

Happy Thanksgiving to my US readers! For this short week I wanted to cover some binding tips. Some you may know and some you may not. Binding is the finishing touch on your quilt so don’t rush through it. Choose the right binding to make your quilt sing!

Tip #1 – Color

The color you choose for the binding depends on whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. Some quilters use binding for an additional frame for their design and want it to stand out. Here’s an example of that:

I used a dark binding because I liked how it accentuated the applique but did not detract from the design in the center of the quilt.

Next:

I wanted to keep the binding on this quilt the same color as the background. I generally do this on quilts with a dark background. Although I did add a little “pizzazz” by choosing a black fabric with a bit more larger print than the background. You can also choose to use the same fabric as the background fabric for your binding to have it completely disappear.

Finally, to use up fabric, consider a scrappy binding. Cut strips from all the leftover color prints used in the quilt top and make your binding from that! This is something I like to do mostly on table runners and wall hangings.

Tip #2 –  Binding Type

What type of binding I use for a quilt project is based on the usage the quilt will get. For wall hangings and decorative table runners, I will use single-fold binding. For large quilts and quilt items that may be used more, I use double-fold binding. Did you know there are 2 ways you can make double-fold binding? The first way is by cutting strips the width you want, I usually use 2 1/4″ strips (you’ll see why below) then folding them over and pressing:

So here’s the alternative way to make double-fold binding. Fold both sides of the strip in to meet in the center. Then there are no raw edges to your binding. Some quilters like this because they feel it’s secure. It’s a personal choice. You can make this binding by hand or by using a binding tool.

And then you would attach it like this on the front side of the quilt with the bottom fold of the strip lining up with the raw edges of the quilt top:

Tip #3 – Full Binding

To have a nice full binding, I like to leave a little batting and backing (about 1/8″) when trimming away the excess batting and backing from the quilted top. I then attach the binding to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as my guide. Also, having your double-fold binding strips cut at 2 1/4 or 2 1/8″ wide, instead of 2 1/2″ wide, helps to make it full too. If your binding is too wide, when you fold it over to the back, it will be empty at the top of the fold and make it look flat.

This guarantees that when I stitch the binding to the top, I will be catching all 3 layers of the quilt sandwich. When I’m ready to turn the binding to the back to stitch it down, I then trim the batting and backing even with the quilt top edge. 

Random Tips

  • Use a walking foot to attach the binding if your machine does not have a dual feed option. You will be stitching through a lot of layers and you want them all feed and to move smoothly as you are attaching the binding.
  • Use old hair clips to secure your folded over binding as you stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. I knew I’d find a good use for these left-over hair clips once my daughter stopped using them!
  • Use a blind stitch to attach your binding and use a color of thread that either matches the color of your binding or is a neutral thread that will blend in with any color.

So, those are some of my tips! I keep forgetting to take photos of the corners when I attach the binding. I guess I’m in a hurry to get done! LOL! I want to show how to get the perfect mitered corner so I promise will get the photos the next time and show you that tip!

Leave a comment with your thoughts on binding. You may have a tip that some of us have not heard of. It’s always a great day when you learn something new!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Binding – The Perfect Finish!

So you’re done with your quilt and it’s time to do the binding. To some quilters, the binding is an afterthought … they just want to get the quilt done. But I like to treat the binding another “frame” for the quilt, just like borders. So here’s some of my tips that I use when choosing a binding for a quilt.

Single-fold or Double-fold?

Single-fold binding is just as it is described. It’s single strips of fabric, usually joined by a bias seam, stitched to the front of the quilt top and then turned to the back and stitched down to “close” the quilt sandwich. I use 1 1/2″ strips. I like to use this type of binding on wall hangings, table runners and other small projects. It’s less bulky for small projects.

My double-fold binding is made from  2 1/4 or 2 1/2″ strips, seamed together on the bias and then pressed in half lengthwise for a double thickness. I like to use this type of bindings on lap size or larger quilts. Mostly because those quilts tend to get handled more and I think double-fold binding is more durable.

Tip: When I am working with a long strip of binding for a big quilt, I like to keep it under control by winding it around a left-over toilet paper roll and securing it with a large pin. Then as I am pinning and stitching the binding to the quilt top, I just unwind the amount I need as I go!

Another option is folding up the binding and securing it with a large binder clip.

Necessity is the mother of invention!

Binding Color

Since I think of my binding as another frame for my quilt, the color is important. Do I want to notice the binding or do I just want it to fade into the background? If I want it to be another frame for the finished quilt, I will choose a contrasting color for the binding like below:

See how the dark binding frames the edges?

Sometimes, I want the binding to blend in with the edges of the quilt. To do that, I choose a color that is not in contrast with the quilt top. Most of the time, I choose the fabric of the background or last border of the quilt.

Finally, if I really want to have fun, I’ll do a scrappy binding made from the leftover fabrics used in the quilt top.

Other Random Tips

So here are a few other random tips. To secure the binding while you are stitching it to the back, use hair clips! Once my daughter moved on from using these in her hair, we had an abundance of these clips. Literally all over the house. They are great for holding the turned over binding in place!

Recycle and re-use!

To have a nice full binding, I like to leave a little batting and backing (about 1/8″) when trimming away the excess batting and backing from the quilted top. I then attached the binding to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as my guide.

After the binding is attached to the top, I will them trim off the excess batting and backing. By doing this, it is guaranteed that all the three layers are sandwiched in the binding to make it full, as opposed to trimming the other two layers even with the top before stitching the binding to the top and risking over trimming.

So, that’s all I have to share on bindings at this time. Let me know if you have an interesting tip for binding. Leave a comment below and you will be entered into a drawing for a free Twilight Desert quilt pattern!

The drawing will be on Tuesday, April 16th. ***We have a winner! Congrats ChristieB!***

Until next time….

Happy Quilting!
Deanne