quilting tips – Page 9 – Snuggles Quilts

What is Stitch and Flip?

If you have been following me on Facebook or Instagram last week, you saw the blocks I have been working on for the last few weeks.

I made 36 of these! The block has 4 black pieces I call the spokes that are made with the stitch and flip method. It’s also referred to as folded corners. The key to success in making these units it to maintain the size and shape of the original piece you are adding the stitch and flip corners to.

You can do stitch and flip on anything that has a 90 degree angle like a square or a rectangle. I was working with black squares here so the following photos will show that.

I started with a 2 1/2″ black square and a tan 1 1/2″ square. Draw a line on the wrong side of the tan square as a guide for stitching:

Next, lay the small square face down and line up its edges with the edges of the bigger black square as shown. I like to pin it in place for stitching so the small square does not shift. Then I stitch on the line.

Now comes the important part. Do not cut off the excess fabric in the seam allowance yet. I like to finger press the small square open and measure the unit to make sure it still measures 2 1/2″.

It still measures correctly! So now I can trim off the excess fabric in the seam allowance and take the unit to the iron for pressing.

You can repeat this step as many times as needed. For my “spoke” I only have a stitch and flip corner on two sides. You can also do this on all for sides or only on opposite sides to make different types of units.

After I’ve measured the finger pressed unit above, I then trim the excess, press the unit and make a final measurement.

Finally, press these and other stitch and flip units carefully. Do not iron! These seams are on the bias and if you iron instead of pressing you can stretch the unit out of shape. Here’s my pressing mini video I did last year:

That’s all there is to it! My blog drawing continues through this week. Share your thoughts on stitch and flip or other interesting techniques in the comments below and be entered in the drawing for a copy of my book!

The drawing will be next Monday, January 27th. We have a winner! Congrats, Toni Anne Potter!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Organization Tips for the New Year

When the new year arrives, the cleaning and organizing bug seems to hit everyone. Something about a new year starting makes people want to start things in their life with a “clean slate”. Staying organized while quilting is a good thing too! I have some habits that I have developed and I thought I’d share them with you. I think these tips have helped me enjoy quilting more. Try some out and see if they do the same for you!

Tip #1

Make it a New Year’s resolution to organize your fabric stash. That way you can “shop” your stash when you are beginning a new project before heading to the quilt shop. Although, I really, really never turn down a trip to the quilt shop! I have come home with a piece fabric thinking it was “unique” only to find it in one of my bins. Organization should keep that from happening. I use 16 quart Sterilite tubs to store most of my fabric that are fat 1/4s, quarter yards and 1/2 yards. Larger pieces (yards and up) are folded and stored on shelves in a cupboard.

I label the front with the fabric size and color and then store those in the tub. These tubs are stack-able and fit well in closets and cupboards. I also use these tubs to store strips. I like to save 1 1/2 and 2 1/2″ strips because I use them so much in scrap quilting.

Tip #2

When cutting out a project, use painter’s tape or masking tape to label a stack of fabric. Most patterns, mine included, label the pieces you are cutting out with numbers or letters. That way they can refer to the pieces by that labeling in the pattern. Instead of repeating “2 1 /2″ purple print square” every time they use that piece, they can say “piece A”.

Tip #3

Storing a project you have cut out is another organizational tip that comes in handy. We all wish we could whip up that project as soon as its cut out… but we live in the real world! For smaller projects, I use the zipper pouches that sheet sets or shower curtains come in. I have saved many of them over the years and they come in really handy!

I also use them when I have picked out fabric for a project but have not had time to cut it out yet. It’s a great way to store the fabric I’ve chosen with the pattern. That way I won’t accidentally use the fabric for another project.

For larger projects, I use a container like below because it’s big enough to store finished blocks in it as I go.

You can find bins like these in your local craft store or stores like JoAnn Fabrics or Micheal’s craft stores.

Tip #4

To speed up piecing of a project, I use design boards that keep pieces of a block organized.

I made these design boards using 13 x 13″ pieces of cardboard covered with scrap batting. I secured it on the back with a glue stick. Make a stack of these and you use it like this:

Once you have a whole stack of these, you can carry them to your sewing machine and piece several blocks in one sitting. No stopping to layout the next block!

So there you have it. Some tips for being organized so you can have fun stitching your next project. Leave me a comment below with some of the things you do to keep yourself organized. You will be entered into a drawing for my book Blooming Patchwork!

The drawing will be on Monday, January 27th so you have two weeks to enter! We have a winner! Congrats, Toni Anne Potter!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Some Tips for Finishing up that Quilt!

Happy new year! Let’s start it out with some tips for finishing a quilt. From borders and labels to figuring yardage for binding, these tips will hopefully inspire you to tackle that stack of UFOs!

Tip#1

Do you have fabric left over after making your blocks and you want to make your quilt a little bigger? Consider using that leftover fabric to make a border! One of my favorites is a piano key border.

It’s simple but it’s colorful and adds a striking frame around your quilt. Other easy pieced borders are checkerboard style and just strips of all the colors used in the quilt.

Use your imagination and use up that fabric!

Tip #2

Labels are something that we should all add to the back of our quilts. Not only to write your name as the maker, but to record the special occasion that the quilt was made for, the receiver of the quilt and the date it was made. If you read some antique quilt books, you will see the phrase “maker unknown” in many of the captions. We don’t want that to happen to our quilts, do we?

On the subject of labels, I like to secure mine by placing two sides of the label on the edge of the quilt so when the binding is attached on the front, the label is also attached.

By doing this, you then only have to hand stitch two sides of the label to complete it. You can also do a folded piece of fabric for the label. This will create a little pocket in the back.

As you can see from the photos I folded a square of fabric into a triangle. The the two raw edge sides can be stitched down when the binding is attached to the front of the quilt. That makes the little “pocket” (where my finger is pointing in the last photo).

Tip #3

Finally, I’ve talked about binding in past blog posts, but one thing I have not covered is how to accurately figure how much yardage you need to make your quilt binding. Here’s how I do it:

Figure the perimeter of the quilt by adding up the length of all the sides. For example for a quilt that is 60 x 72″ here is the calculation: 60 + 60 + 72 + 72 = 264
Add 2″ to that measurement to account for the length of the binding used on the corners (I figure in 1/2″ per corner): 264 + 2 = 266
Then divide that measurement by the width of fabric to determine how many strips I need. I use 40″ for my usable width: 266/40 = 6.65. I always round up, so I need 7 strips for this quilt’s binding.
Multiply the strip amount by the size of the strips needed. If I am making double-fold binding, I use 2 1/4″ strips so: 7 x 2 1/4″ = 15 3/4″. I round up to the nearest common cut of fabric, so I will need 1/2 yard to make the binding for this quilt. If I was only doing single-fold binding, I use 1 1/2″ strips so: 7 x 1 1/2″ = 10 1/2, rounding up, I would use 1/3 yard of fabric here.

I hope these quick New Year’s tips are something that will motivate you to get those quilts done! It’s a new year and I will have lots of new stuff to share with you!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

More Quilting Tips…. the Sequel!

I hope you enjoyed my quilting tips last week that involved using unusual items in the sewing room. This week, I have some more of those to share to get you ready for quilting and sewing in the new year!

Tip #1

If you press seams open like me, use a cuticle stick to open the seam, without stretching it, so you can just drop the iron down for pressing.

This way, you are not moving the iron over the seam (ironing) which can stretch out the seam and distort your piece. Here’s a mini video tutorial I did on this subject:

Tip #2

Dispose of needles in an old pill bottle. You can mark the bottle “used needles” and dispose of it when it’s full.

You can also use the pill bottle for storing bobbins. Consider winding 4 or 5 bobbins with the thread you are using to piece a quilt and storing them in this bottle. When one runs out, you have a new one waiting!

Tip #3

Label pins with numbers using painter’s or wahsi tape. Use these to label rows as you are piecing a quilt. This is especially important if it’s a quilt where the design depends on the blocks and rows needing to be assembled in a specific order.

Placing the “1” pin in this block says it’s the first block in the first row. Keep the pin in this block after the row is assembled so you are reminded that it’s row #1 and needs to be stitched to row #2 and so on.

Tip #4

Use a scrap of batting to sweep threads off your sewing room floor. Works just as good as a Swiffer sweeper and you won’t get threads wrapped up in your vacuum cleaner head damaging your vacuum.

I actually just pushed around the scrap of batting with the end of a yard stick!

Tip #5

A belt hanger works really good to keep rulers organized if you have a small work space. You can hang it up in a closet when you are not sewing so they are out of the way.

Slip binder rings through the hole at the top of the ruler and then hang the ruler from the belt hanger. You can find these binder rings at any office supply store.

So there you have it! Some more fun ways to use unusual items in your sewing room. Comment below on things you use in your sewing room and you will be entered in the ongoing drawing for my pattern Seaside Cottage!

The drawing will be on Monday, January 6th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Lynne!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Quilting Tips – Sewing Room Uses for Household Items

I love to hunt around to see how other quilters utilize everyday household items in their sewing room. Some of them seem crazy, but when you try it, it actually works! I’ve also come up with some unusual uses on my own. As they say, necessity is the mother of invention! I’m sharing some of the ones I use the most here.

Tip #1

There is a lot of information about ergonomics while sewing to reduce back and neck strain. My sewing table does not allow my machine to be sunk in, so one of the tips I have employed is using door stops to elevate the back of my sewing machine to tip it forward. These door stops can be found at any hardware store.

I chose 1 1/2″ high ( at the highest point) door stops since I thought any higher would make the machine unstable. Simply slide them under your machine in the back to tilt it forward. Make sure everything is stable by trying to move the machine after inserting the stops. If the machine seems like it’s slipping, pull out the stops a bit so it is not tilted as much.

Notice it’s not a severe tilt, but it is enough to eliminate my need to bend too far forward to see how my fabric is feeding under the presser foot.

Tip #2

Use a mason/canning jar to hold a large spool of thread if your machine does not have a spindle for the large spools. Use the cover that comes with the canning jar to help keep the spool from jumping out of the jar while you’re stitching.

If your jar cover does not have a hole in it like mine, carefully punch a hole to feed the thread through. Be sure to smooth down any sharp edges with a metal file so those edges do not cut your thread. If you do not have a cover, you can fashion one from a piece of cardboard.

The cardboard “top” can be taped on two sides to hold it down while you’re stitching.

Tip #3

Use an extra long ball chain to make a necklace for your scissors!

Think of the convenience! You will never be searching for your scissors again when you are hand stitching or even as you are sitting at your machine. This type of chain can be found at your local craft store. There are a variety of lengths so you can find one that fits you perfectly.

Tip #4

Hold a piece of bright colored paper behind your sewing machine needle to help you to thread it if your machine does not have an automatic needle threader.

Notice in the above photo how you can barely make out the eye of the needle. And this is with the machine on and lights shining in the area! Now look what happens when you have a piece of colored paper behind the needle.

Now you can see the eye and easily thread the needle! I used a post-it note in a neon color. I keep the piece of paper in a drawer by my machine to use over and over.

Tip #5

Apply blue painter’s tape or washi tape to mark the line on your ruler if you are cutting a lot of strips of the same measurement. This will save you a bit of time and help with accuracy.

When you are done, simply peel away the tape. It leaves no residue on your ruler!

So those are my tips for this week. Tune in next week for some more fun tips and hacks! Comment below on some of the things you use in the sewing room that may not be conventional. You will be entered into a drawing for a my pattern Seaside Cottage!

The drawing entry will be over the next two weeks since it’s holiday time. You can enter this week or next. I will draw for the winner on Monday, January 6th in the new year! **We have a winner! Congrats, Lynne!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Half-Square Triangles Tips

Many quilt patterns, including my patterns, use half-square triangle square units to create the design. Do not be intimidated by these! Half-square triangle squares, or as quilters call them, HSTs, are really not that hard and come out accurately every time if you follow my tips.

Here’s one of my patterns that uses quite a few HSTs:

Posey Patch above even has two different sizes!

So here are some of my tips for making HSTs.

Tip #1: For most projects, I use the method of making HSTs that uses 2 squares, one color print and one tan print. In this example I’m using squares the size I need to make HSTs that measure 2 1/2″ . That would be squares either 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ OR, if you don’t mind wasting a tiny bit of fabric, you can start with squares that measure 3″ x 3″ to ensure you end up with squares the correct size after trimming.

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the tan print square:

Then place the tan print and the color print squares right sides together with the tan print square on top so the drawn line is visible.

Tip #2: Now comes the time to stitch. I like to stitch with a scant 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line, especially if I am using squares cut with a 7/8″ measurement:

Using the scant 1/4″ distance guarantees your squares will not be too small when you press them open because you can always trim them.

Tip #3: Now we come to the trimming. Cut the above unit apart on the drawn line. You will have two units. Do not press them open yet. We will actually trim them before pressing. The great thing about that is you are only having to make two trimming cuts instead of have to trim all four sides individually!

Here’s the unit cut apart:

Then I use this awesome tool I like to use for the trimming. It’s called the Quilt in a Day® Triangle Square Up Ruler!

Here it is and how it works:

The numbers on the measurement lines are the size of the HST you want after it’s pressed open. Ours are going to be 2 1/2″ after trimming so we use the 2 1/2″ line on this ruler. First place the ruler on one of the units from above with the 2 1/2″ line on the stitch line:

Now you trim off the excess fabric on the two sides. Once you do this, you can press open the unit and here you are:

It’s that simple! Since each set of squares makes 2 HSTs, if you need 40 HSTs you need 20 squares of tan print and 20 squares of color print.

Earlier this year, I did a post on how to make 8 HSTs at a time! That would also come in handy for my Posey Patch quilt. Here’s how to do that:

Here is a method to make 8 HSTs at once. You use 2 squares like above, however they need to be twice the size as your finished square + 1 3/4″. For example, if you want 2″ finished HSTs, your starting squares need to be 5 3/4″ ( 2 x 2 = 4″ plus 1 3/4″).

Draw a diagonal line both ways on the wrong side of one of the squares and then lay your squares right sides together one on top of each other just like in the method above. Then stitch a scant 1/4″ on each side of those drawn lines.

Once the stitching is done, cut the square apart as shown.

Next cut the smaller squares apart on the diagonal line:

Now you can trim each of these with the ruler shown above, press open and you have 8 HSTs!

So, I hope you found these tips helpful! Leave me a comment or ask a question and I will enter you in a drawing for my Posey Patch pattern! Drawing will be on Monday, December 9th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Rebecca!***

Binding Tips for Busy Quilters

Happy Thanksgiving to my US readers! For this short week I wanted to cover some binding tips. Some you may know and some you may not. Binding is the finishing touch on your quilt so don’t rush through it. Choose the right binding to make your quilt sing!

Tip #1 – Color

The color you choose for the binding depends on whether you want it to stand out or to fade into the background. Some quilters use binding for an additional frame for their design and want it to stand out. Here’s an example of that:

I used a dark binding because I liked how it accentuated the applique but did not detract from the design in the center of the quilt.

I wanted to keep the binding on this quilt the same color as the background. I generally do this on quilts with a dark background. Although I did add a little “pizzazz” by choosing a black fabric with a bit more larger print than the background. You can also choose to use the same fabric as the background fabric for your binding to have it completely disappear.

Finally, to use up fabric, consider a scrappy binding. Cut strips from all the leftover color prints used in the quilt top and make your binding from that! This is something I like to do mostly on table runners and wall hangings.

Tip #2 – Binding Type

What type of binding I use for a quilt project is based on the usage the quilt will get. For wall hangings and decorative table runners, I will use single-fold binding. For large quilts and quilt items that may be used more, I use double-fold binding. Did you know there are 2 ways you can make double-fold binding? The first way is by cutting strips the width you want, I usually use 2 1/4″ strips (you’ll see why below) then folding them over and pressing:

So here’s the alternative way to make double-fold binding. Fold both sides of the strip in to meet in the center. Then there are no raw edges to your binding. Some quilters like this because they feel it’s secure. It’s a personal choice. You can make this binding by hand or by using a binding tool.

And then you would attach it like this on the front side of the quilt with the bottom fold of the strip lining up with the raw edges of the quilt top:

Tip #3 – Full Binding

To have a nice full binding, I like to leave a little batting and backing (about 1/8″) when trimming away the excess batting and backing from the quilted top. I then attach the binding to the top of the quilt using the quilt top edge as my guide. Also, having your double-fold binding strips cut at 2 1/4 or 2 1/8″ wide, instead of 2 1/2″ wide, helps to make it full too. If your binding is too wide, when you fold it over to the back, it will be empty at the top of the fold and make it look flat.

This guarantees that when I stitch the binding to the top, I will be catching all 3 layers of the quilt sandwich. When I’m ready to turn the binding to the back to stitch it down, I then trim the batting and backing even with the quilt top edge.

Random Tips

Use a walking foot to attach the binding if your machine does not have a dual feed option. You will be stitching through a lot of layers and you want them all feed and to move smoothly as you are attaching the binding.
Use old hair clips to secure your folded over binding as you stitch the binding to the back of the quilt. I knew I’d find a good use for these left-over hair clips once my daughter stopped using them!

Use a blind stitch to attach your binding and use a color of thread that either matches the color of your binding or is a neutral thread that will blend in with any color.

So, those are some of my tips! I keep forgetting to take photos of the corners when I attach the binding. I guess I’m in a hurry to get done! LOL! I want to show how to get the perfect mitered corner so I promise will get the photos the next time and show you that tip!

Leave a comment with your thoughts on binding. You may have a tip that some of us have not heard of. It’s always a great day when you learn something new!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Sewing Tips – Crisp Points and Seam Alignment

Hi there! I chose these two stitching challenges because it’s something I’m asked about often. I hear “How do you keep your points from getting chopped off?” and “How do I align the seams when I’m piecing units or blocks together?” all the time! Getting both of these things as close to perfect as possible will make your blocks and your quilt that much more beautiful.

Tips for Crisp Points

This is one of the things that dogs a lot of quilters. I find that many times this is due to impatience (rushing through chain piecing) and not being being aware of where your points are in relation to the seam you are stitching. I’ll describe how I achieve crisp points in a series of photos.

Flip over a flying geese unit like shown below and you will see a point created in the seam allowance when the unit was made.

Paying attention to where this point is while you are stitching is an important key for getting crisp points. Notice I have pinned the pieces so they won’t shift. Now, as I am stitching I keep an eye on the point. I want to keep my stitching above it. Hopefully, if I made my geese unit correctly, the top of the point is 1/4″ from the edge of the unit.

I am using a pin to show you where the point is as I am stitching. In the photo below you can see my needle is going to pass the stitching above the point but still be an accurate 1/4″ seam (see where I am pointing with the pin). You want the stitching to stay above but not too far. If your stitching touches the very tippy top of the point, that is still OK.

Here is the finished seam with my point intact!

Turn the piece over and you will see that the point is not cut off!

Here’s the star block finished with nice crisp points.

If you slow down while you are piecing and pay attention to where your points are on the unit you are stitching, you will have nice crisp points every time.

Aligning Seams

Most designs in a traditional block or quilt depend on seams being lined up when you stitch them together. Here’s a photo of one of my recent patterns:

The Jacob’s Ladder block that makes up this table runner has a seam that needs to match up so the four-patch units in the block are aligned correctly and then when the blocks are pieced together, the middle seams of each block need to align. Here’s how I make sure seams align when piecing blocks together:

The two blocks on the left are the ones I am stitching together. I lay one on top of the other and then I peel back the top one so I can align the seams. I try to bend it back where the 1/4″ seam line will be to make sure they are aligned. Once I am satisfied, I will pin the unit there first so my alignment does not move when I pin other parts of the block. When I am done, the seams are matched perfectly on the front!

Hopefully these two brief tutorials will help you to achieve crisp points and aligned seams. Once you master those skills, your quilt blocks and quilt tops will look better and better!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Use it All Up!

Hi everyone! Many of you know I was at the Wisconsin Quilt Expo this past weekend. Wow, was that fun! I really enjoyed meeting every quilter that found my booth. It was fun chatting with you and I am glad you find the time to read my humble blog. For those of you that were not there, here’s a few photos of my booth:

So now onto the topic of the day. In speaking with many of my fellow quilters at the show, I found that most of us like to use all of our fabric. I’ve done posts about storing and saving strips for future blocks. Since fabric is so expensive, we quilters are usually looking for ways to use every bit. Here I will be sharing two “use it all up” tips.

Tip#1

What do you do when you are making flying geese (the traditional way) and have to trim off the seam allowance? That’s fabric waste and I don’t like it any more than you do.

Inspiration strikes! How about making half-square triangle (HST) square units from the trimmed off seam allowance as you go? Eventually, you will have a batch of these squares and you can make something fun, like a wall hanging or a table runner!

This tip works best if your flying geese units are larger ones, for example 3 1/2 x 6 1/2″ geese. But if you are a quilter who likes working with mini pieces, you can go as small as you’re comfortable with.

Start out with the rectangle that is 3 1/2 x 6 1/2″ and two squares that are 3 1/2″ square. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the squares. Once you have the square placed face down on the rectangle, sew along the drawn line and then sew another seam 1/2″ away from the first seam. If you want to mark that line too, feel free.

Then, cut the unit between the sewn lines:

Press open the units:

Once you repeat this step on the other side and press the units open, you will have a flying geese unit and two HST squares. You can use the HST squares in the project you are making the geese for, or save them for another purpose!

A geese unit that measures 3 1/2 x 6 1/2″ will yield two HST squares that can be trimmed to measure 2 1/2″ square. A geese unit that measures 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ yields two HST squares that can be trimmed to measure 1 1/2″ square.

What can you do with these HST squares? Make a pinwheel block with four of them or sew them together in a chain for an interesting pieced border. Or, just toss them in a container just for those HSTs. Then you can pull them out and whip up a small project with them. A candle mat, a small table runner or anything you can think of!

So now that I have shared this tip, you won’t feel so guilty about making flying geese units the “old-fashioned” way. You will now be accumulating half-square triangle squares that you can put to use in another quilt!

Tip#2

If you have followed my fabric saving tips in the fast, but end up with odd pieces that you can not cut into strips, what can you do? Well, if you use applique on your quilts, by all means save these piece! I have tubs of scraps that I use to make flowers, leaves and other applique motifs. Here’s one of the tubs:

I have tubs for other colors too. I like having these scraps because I don’t have to cut into a new piece of fabric just for a small applique.

So, those are a few of my “use it all up” tips. Do you have any to share? let me know in the comments!

Happy Quilting
Deanne

Time Saving Tips for Quilters

Hello Quilters! I have a few time saving tips that will make your stitching and sewing days more enjoyable. These are easy little tricks that can shave a little time off piecing, pressing and stitching.

Chain Piecing

Of course, most quilters are familiar with chain piecing. Whoever invented this technique deserves a medal! For those of you who are not familiar, it is the practice of continuously feeding pieces that need to be joined together under the presser foot of your machine as you stitch. You don’t have to stop after every unit and clip the thread. When all pieces are joined, then you clip the units apart.

I love to chain piece and I actually spend a few minutes looking at instructions in a pattern in order to figure out what pieces I can chain stitch for a time saver. I also chain piece blocks together if I am making several of the same block. I simply stack up the rows for all the blocks and chain piece until the blocks are done.

Pressing Seams with Pressing Stick

If you have blocks that have a lot of seams, instead of moving to the ironing board constantly, use a pressing stick!

Here’s how it is used:

This allows you to piece an entire block made up of many seamed units without having to move to your iron. Once the blocks are all pieced, then you can take them to the iron and press everything, including the stick pressed seams.

Creasing a Stitch Line

If you do not want to take the time to draw diagonal stitch lines on all of your squares for making half-square triangle squares, you can use the creasing technique. Fold the top square of the two squares you are stitching together in half and finger press to make a visible crease. You can also use the pressing stick mentioned above.