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Block of the Week – Block 6

Hi! Welcome back to block of the week. It’s time for block six in my 2026 BOW. This one is scrappy and is different from the other blocks because you can use some random colorful strips for part of it. I call this one Checkerboard Stars. It’s my twist on the traditional double-nine patch block. But will get into that later. 

If you are just joining, here’s a link to last week’s post for block 5. You can then follow links back to the other 4 blocks from there. I made this block with the light and dark backgrounds again. Choose either option or make both. Let’s get started!

Block of the Week – Block 6

This block is simply created by combining nine-patch blocks, squares with stitch & flip corners, and flying geese. Find some random colorful strips to make them scrappy. Here is Checkerboard Star:

Find the pattern for Checkerboard Star here: 2026 BOW Block 6.

Here is the same block with a dark background. I think I like this one the best.

Tip of the Week (with a little history thrown in!)

Strips Quilting and Strip Sets

Making strip sets is the easiest way to make nine patch blocks, so this is going to be the tip I cover this week. Accurate strip sets are needed to make the blocks so they measure correctly.

Most historians agree that strip quilting, scrap quilting or string quilting often gains popularity in times of economic downturns. Quilters who did not have the disposable income to purchase new fabric would cut up what they had and stored in their sewing baskets for future projects. New and old fabrics were used. Sometimes clothes that were no longer wearable.

They would sew together scraps and strips until they had created a larger piece of fabric. They used rulers or a specific template they wanted to use to make a block to judge the size of the fabric piece they needed. Once they reached the desired size, they cut their pieces or blocks from the scrappy piece. A lot of string quilts made in the past used strips of many different widths, not just uniform sizes. Some of the quilts of Gee’s Bend are good examples of this type of piecing.

So now let’s move on to the strip set tips.

Today when we make strip sets to make blocks, it’s kind of a throw back to the quilters of the past. First, what is a strip set? It’s when you sew strips together lengthwise like this:

From these two-strip strip sets, you can make four-patch blocks. These are fun beginner blocks.

For my block 6, you will be joining different combinations of strips into strip sets containing 3 strips each. Here’s some computer drawings showing that concept:

The two strip sets used are at the top. One has two of one color strip and one of the other. The other set is the opposite. To make a nine-patch block, you cut two segments from the first set and one segment from the second set and join them as shown. 

My example has the red as the 5 patches. If you wanted the blue to be the 5 patches, you would cut two segments from the set on the right and one from the set on the left.

Accurate Strip Set Piecing

I mentioned above that the strips in a set need to be joined together with accuracy to make sure your block measures correctly when you are finished. Here are some tips on joining strips.

Tip #1: I like to use strips that are 20″ long as they are easier to handle and have less of a chance of warping in the stitching and pressing steps. So, I cut my strips from pre-cuts like fat quarters or fat eighths to get this length.

Tip #2: Use a scant 1/4″ for piecing the strips into sets. Each time you add a strip and press the seam, you need to trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips:

 Instead of lining up the edge of my unit to be pieced with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move the strips a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo). Once these two strips are stitched, it’s time to trim the set to 2 1/2″ wide.

To achieve this I press the set open, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam for trimming each side.

Time to add on the next strip using the scant 1/4″ while stitching and then trim that side:

Following these steps, you should be able to make strips sets that measure the correct length and width.

A Little Block History

Like I said above, my block is a play on the double nine-patch. Here’s what the plain double nine-patch block looks like from my quilt, Seaside Cottage:

As you can see on the left, there are five nine-patch blocks arranged with four plain squares to make a larger nine-patch block. That’s where the name double nine-patch comes from.

This variation of the simple nine-patch block was first discovered in 19th century quilts. The basic nine-patch itself dates further back to the late 18th century. It was born out of thrift because most women at that time could not afford to buy new fabric. Because of that, they saved scraps of fabric and cut squares from those to make a block.

I love how such a simple block created out of necessity has endured through the years of quilting. Most likely because of it’s simplicity and versatility. 

Strip sets, believe it or not, are not a modern invention either. It’s a technique that has been found to be used by some Native American tribes in the 18th and 19th centuries. There’s evidence that they joined strips together and cross-cut them, like we do today, to create  new blocks. It was mainstreamed as a time-saver during the quilting revival of the 1970s. I love time savers and I bet you do too!

That’s it for this week! Come back next week for block 7.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Got A Lot of Scraps? Now What?

In last week’s blog post, I shared tips on building and organizing a fabric stash. This week, I want to cover the things you can do with these pre-cuts, strips or scraps. Fabric is expensive, so it’s great when you have ways to use it up. But first, I’m going to share a little history of scrap quilting. Then this week I will concentrate on creating blocks from the stash. Next week, I will cover the other fun things to do to use up your fabric.

Scrap & Strip Quilting

Most historians agree that strip quilting, scrap quilting or string quilting often gains popularity in times of economic downturns. Quilters who did not have the disposable income to purchase new fabric would cut up what they had and stored in their sewing baskets for future projects. New and old fabrics were used. Sometimes clothes that were no longer wearable.

They would sew together scraps and strips until they had created a larger piece of fabric. They used rulers or a specific template they wanted to use to make a block to judge the size of the fabric piece they needed. Once they reached the desired size, they cut their pieces or blocks from the scrappy piece. A lot of string quilts made in the past used strips of many different widths, not just uniform sizes. Some of the quilts of Gee’s Bend are good examples of this type of piecing. So let’s move on to blocks.

Quilt Blocks from Strips

Today when we make strip sets to make blocks, it’s kind of a throw back to the quilters of the past. These are the types of blocks I will focus on in this post. 

First, what is a strip set? It’s when you sew strips together lengthwise like this:

This strip set above only has 2 strips to make it, but you can have sets made up of 3 or 4 different strips. I like to use strips that are 20″ long as they are easier to handle and have less of a chance of warping in the stitching and pressing steps. So, I cut my strips from pre-cuts like fat quarters or fat eighths to get this length.

From these two-strip strip sets, you can make four-patch blocks. These are fun beginner blocks.

Strip sets of 3 or 4 strips can be used to make blocks like Rail Fence:

Above is a 4 strip Rail Fence that is the most common. This one is made from two different 4-strip strip sets.

Here’s my tips for making accurate strip sets, no matter how many strips you use. I use a  scant 1/4″ when stitching strips together.

When using a scant 1/4″for piecing these sets, each time you add a strip press you need to trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips:

 Instead of lining up the edge of my unit to be pieced with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move the strips a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo). Once these two strips are stitched, it’s time to trim the set to 2 1/2″ wide.

To achieve this I press the set open, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam for trimming each side.

Time to add on the next strip following using the scant 1/4″ when stitching and then trim that side:

This next block is made from strips, but isn’t made with strip sets. This style is one of my favorites… the Log Cabin block. The versions I like the best are the traditional (left) and the courthouse steps (right):

You can actually make eight-pointed star blocks from strips. I like to save 2 1/2″ and 1 1/2″ strips. Using those sizes, you can make a 4 1/2″ star block like this one:

The center square is cut from a 2 1/2″ strip and the pieces that make up the points and corner squares are cut from 1 1/2″ strips.

Now here are a couple of interesting blocks made from strips that you don’t often see.

The block on the left is called Domino and the one on the right is called Stone Mason’s Puzzle. Very geometric looking! Both of these blocks are made up of four separate units, each of which are made up of strips and squares cut from strips.

Blocks made up of this many pieces can sometimes be off in measurements because of all the seams in each unit. My tip to make sure the block measures correctly when you are finished is to measure the separate block units as you go before piecing them into the block. That’s why I keep a small ruler by my sewing machine.

I bet if you look closely to a lot of quilt blocks, you can find many others that can be made from strips that you have saved. Come back next week for more ideas on using up your fabric stash.

Leave a comment or ask a question below and be entered into a drawing for my pattern, Cabin Stars:

The drawing will be on Monday, February 24th so you will have this week and next to enter.**We have a winner! Congrats, Denise Maguire!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

So Many Small Pieces! Tips for Piecing Shortcuts

This week I will share with you two of my favorite piecing shortcuts. These are techniques that can help you to get some projects done quicker than you thought you could. Sometimes you look at a pattern and say “there are too many small pieces!” and decide not to make it. Well, I think these piecing shortcuts will help to change your mind. Let’s go!

Lots of Tiny Squares!

Here is a quilt of mine, Seaside Cottage, that looks like I just sat by a box of 1 1/2″ squares and kept sewing… and sewing…. and sewing.

Well, that’s not the case! Any time you see a quilt with a lot of nine-patch blocks (like above), four-patch blocks and even rail fence blocks … the secret ingredient is: strip sets!

Strip sets are made from joining two or more long strips on their lengthwise sides. You can use width of fabric strips (40-44″ long) if you need a lot of pieces cut for your project, but I prefer to cut those in half to 20-22″ long. It’s easier for your strip sets to distort if you are using longer strips.

I make my strip sets with a scant 1/4″ seam to make sure they measure accurately when done. My tip for using a scant 1/4″ for piecing these is after each strip is added, press the strip set open, measure and trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips (left photo).

Instead of lining up the edge of my strip unit for stitching with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move it a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo).

Once those strips are stitched together I want it to measure 2 1/2″ wide. To do this, I press the set, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it to 2 1/2″. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam for even trimming. Then I add the next strip in the same manner.

Once that last strip is added to the set and the new seam is pressed open, I place the 1 1/4″ line of the ruler on the new seam and trim. The strip set will now measure 3 1/2″.

Tip for stitching more than one strip: when you stitch strips together, alternate your sewing direction. That helps limit distortion of the strips and the strip set.

After you have your strip sets made, then you sub-cut them into the pieces you need. For example, the photos below show sub-cutting a two-strip strip set that is used to make four-patch blocks.

You can use strip sets to make a lot of different blocks like these:

Lots of Half-square Triangle Squares!

On no! I know you’ve shuddered at quilts that have a lot of these types of block units. For beginners, the short-cut term for these is: HST squares. If you’ve seen patterns that states you need X amount of HSTs … they’re talking about half-square triangle squares.

You may shy away from my Village Square quilt for this reason.

If you want to make a quilt pattern like mine with a lot of scrappy HSTs, the technique of making multiple HSTs at once is a skill you want to learn. There is a way to make four HSTs at a time or even eight at a time!

Four HSTs at a Time: To start, you need to know the size of the HST you want to end up with to know what size to cut your fabric pieces for this technique.

If you need your HSTs to measure 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ (that includes the seam allowance), you divide that number by .64 and then round up to the nearest whole number. Here’s how that formula looks in action:

2 1/2 ÷ .64 = 3.906  – that number is then round that up to 4″

So, you will cut two squares each 4 x 4″ from the two different color fabrics you want for your HSTs. (first photo below), lay the two squares, right sides together, on top of each other and then stitch with a 1/4″ seam around the outside (last photo).

Sorry my thread doesn’t show too well on the above photo (finger is pointing to the seam) Here’s a drawing of what it should look like:

The final step is to cut the unit apart as shown below and then press open the resulting units for four HSTs.

Since the size of the squares used here are rounded up to make these HSTs, they may need trimming to measure the size needed for the pattern you are making. Be sure to lay the 45 degree line of the ruler you are using for trimming on the diagonal seam for accuracy. 

Eight HSTs at a Time: If the quilt pattern you are making has a large amount of HSTs made from the same color combinations, then the eight at a time method will be more efficient for you. Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST square you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST squares that measure 1 1/2 x  1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

 1 1/2″ x 2″ = 3″

3″ + 1 3/4″ = 4 3/4″

So, you need two squares each 4 3/4 x 4 3/4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares (photo on the left below) and then place your squares right sides together like in the four HSTs at a time instructions above. Pin the unit and sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of each drawn lines (photo on right below).

Cut the unit apart into 4 squares and then cut each square apart on the drawn diagonal line. Once all the pieces are cut apart, then press open for your eight HSTs!

Now you can trim those HSTs to the size you need. Repeat as often as needed to get as many HSTs as you want using a variety of color prints to end up with a fantastic scrappy quilt.

So that’s a synopsis of my two favorite shortcuts. What kind of shortcuts have you used? Share in the comments and I will choose one of you to win my pattern, Village Square. You can then practice multiple HSTs!

The drawing will be on Monday, February 12th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Lynn!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

My Favorite Piecing Shortcuts

Last week I covered all types of shortcuts in hand stitching and machine piecing. So how do piecing shortcuts apply to actual block and quilt making? I have chosen to talk about two of my favorite piecing shortcuts: multiple half-square triangle (HST) squares and strip sets. By using these shortcuts, I’ve been able to make blocks and quilts, that would otherwise take a lot of time, more quickly. So let’s get started!

Multiple HST Squares

First off if you don’t already know, HST is the acronym for half-square triangle. I like using that acronym because it’s a lot easier than typing out half-square triangles every time. LOL! The best thing about making multiple HSTs is getting a lot done in a few easy steps, which is great when you have a lot these units to make for a quilt. You can make four at a time or eight at a time depending on how many of the same color combinations you need.

Four HSTs at a Time: Determine the size of the HST you want (including seam allowance), divide that number by .64. Round up to the nearest 1/8″.  Then cut 2 squares of different colors that size. For example, for 2 1/2″ HSTs:

       2 1/2″ / .64 = 3.906, round up to 4″

Step 1: Lay the two squares right sides together matching up raw edges so they are completely one on top of the other. Pin in place.

Step 2: Sew 1/4″ around all 4 sides of the square unit.

Step 3: Cut the sewn square diagonally as shown and then press open each section for 4 HSTs.

Since the size of the squares used here are rounded up to make these HSTs, they may need trimming to measure the size needed for the pattern you are making. Be sure to lay the 45 degree line of the ruler you are using for trimming on the diagonal seam for accuracy. 

Here’s a trimming shortcut I like: I have a ruler called the Quilt in a Day Triangle Square-up Ruler. This allows you to trim up the HSTs before pressing them open. So, you only need to trim 2 sides instead of 4 sides.

Eight HSTs at a Time: If the quilt pattern you are making has a large amount of HSTs made from the same color combinations, then the eight at a time method will be more efficient for you.

Step 1: Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST square you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST square that measures 1 1/2 x  1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

                1 1/2″ x 2″ = 3″

                3″ + 1 3/4″ = 4 3/4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares (photo on the right below).

Step 2: Place the squares right sides together with the square with the drawn lines on top so they are visible. Pin. Sew a scant 1/4″ on each side of each drawn lines.

Step 3: Cut the unit apart into 4 squares and then cut each square on the drawn diagonal line.

Once you press them all open, you have eight HSTs of the same color scheme.

Just like you did with the four at a time HSTs, these may need to be trimmed down to the size needed for your pattern.

Strip Sets

Strip sets are a shortcut often used when making blocks like a four-patch, nine-patch or rail fence. You can also use these to make the units for a piano key border. Strip sets are made from joining two or more long strips on their lengthwise sides. You can use width of fabric strips (40-44″ long) if you need a lot of pieces cut for your project, but I prefer to cut those in half to 20-22″ long. It’s easier for your strip sets to distort if you are using longer strips.

I like to make strip sets with a scant 1/4″ seam that helps my strip sets to measure accurately. When using a scant 1/4″ for piecing these sets, each time a strip is added, press and trim up the set before adding the next strip. Below are photos showing the first steps of joining 3 strips into a strip set measuring 3 1/2″ wide when done.  I’m beginning three 1 1/2″ wide strips (left photo).

Instead of lining up the edge of my strip unit for stitching with the edge of the 1/4″ foot, I move it a hair to the left (as shown in the last photo). Once those strips are stitched together, the strip set should measure 2 1/2″ wide. To achieve this I press the set, place the ruler evenly on the strip set to trim it to 2 1/2″. The 1 1/4″ line of the ruler should rest on the center seam to be centered for trimming.

Now I can add on the next strip with a scant 1/4″ seam, press and trim. Lay the 1 1/4″ line of the ruler on the new seam and trim. When finished, the strip set measures the 3 1/2″ width as required.

Some more tips when working with strip sets:

Tip #1: Always pin the strips you are joining so the remain aligned while stitching.

Tip #2: When stitching strips together, do not pull on them or push them through the machine. Just gently guide them along. Doing otherwise can distort your seam.

Tip #3: Make sure to press and not iron when pressing the strip set open.  If you iron along the seam instead of pressing, you run the risk of stretching the fabric, the seam or both. This will result in a distorted strip set that is difficult to cut into segments.

Tip #4: Finally, if you are joining more than two strips together, alternate which end you start at when stitching. This also helps to limit distortion of the whole strip set. The diagram below shows what I am talking about:

So that all for this week. Leave a comment or ask a question below and be entered into a drawing for my pattern, Seaside Cottage:

This pattern will give you a lot of strip set practice for all those nine-patch blocks! The drawing will be on Tuesday, September 12th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Mary Wise!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Scrap Quilting – What Can I Do with All These Strips?

I’m always talking about my fabric strip collections and the size of the strips I collect. So for fun this week, I decided to search out some traditional blocks from the Ladies’ Arts Company and challenge myself to make them from strips.

Here’s some of my strip bins spread out as I choose strips. Of course, Addie was supervising from her perch on the cutting mat.

My strip collection is made up of 2 1/2″ and 1 1/2″ strips. The blocks I decided to feature are ones that are strips only, a combination of strips and squares cut from strips, and blocks that look a bit more challenging, but the pieces are still cut from strips.

First up, here’s the most simple ones – the “patch” blocks. 4-patch, 9-patch and 16-patch blocks.

You can make these blocks from 1 1/2″ or 2 1/2″ strips, depending on how big you want the block. And if you want to make several at a time, make use of strips sets. A strip set is made when you join 2 or more fabric strips together and then you sub cut them into units. When you stitch these strips together, alternate your sewing direction. That helps limit distortion of the strips and the strip set.

This is what sub cutting looks like with a strip set made up of 2 strips to make 4-patch blocks.

If you are a beginner to quilting, the “patch” blocks are the easiest to master. And you can make some pretty quilts from these blocks alone. Here’s my quilt, Seaside Cottage, that has a center made completely from “patch” blocks that were all made from strip sets.

One of most well known blocks made completely from strips is the Rail Fence. This is another easy to piece block for beginners.

These blocks are fun to make because you can use strip sets or you can use 16 random strips for a really scrappy version. The Rail Fence block got it’s name from the split rail fences common among country roads. We’ve talked before about how women often named blocks after everyday things. This is one of those examples. Other names it’s been known by is Fence Rail, Interlocked Squares and Fence Posts.

Now for one of my favorite blocks. When you combine strips and squares, you start to get some really interesting designs. The most well known of these is the Log Cabin block. This one is the Courthouse Steps version:

Now, here a a couple of interesting strip and square blocks that I have not made before. 

The block on the left is called Domino and the one on the right is called Stone Mason’s Puzzle. Very geometric looking! Both of these blocks are made up of four separate units, each of which are made up of strips and squares. Blocks made up of this many pieces can sometimes be off in measurements because of all the seams in each unit. To make sure the block measures correctly when you are finished is to measure the separate units as you go before piecing them into the block. That’s why I keep a small ruler by my sewing machine.

This is a step that you should adopt in your everyday quilting. By measuring the units that make up the block, you avoid a block that measures incorrectly once you piece all the units together. It takes just seconds to do and will save you headaches caused by having to “un-sew” later.

Finally, there’s blocks that use squares to create corners so you can make things like flying geese. Yes, these can be made using your strip supply! The first thing you need to do is master the stitch and flip (also known as folded corners) method. I have done blog posts on this technique in the past and I also have a mini video tutorial showing the steps:

If you follow the tips in the tutorial, these blocks will be very easy for you. The flying geese unit is the most well know made from this method. 

Master making these and you can combine them with squares for the Eight-pointed Star block.

Add in more strips and squares and a block like this is created.

Another kind of unit that uses the stitch & flip method is this one:

I’m not sure what others call it, but I call it a cornered square. When making this unit, you start with one large square and four smaller ones. I started with a 2 1/2″ square and four 1 1/2″ squares. It’s important to measure this unit as you add on the corners to make sure it stays measuring 2 1/2″ each time you add a corner (see photos below)

Now you can combine these units to make some interesting designs. Here’s one below where I just changed the tan fabric to a lighter one on some of the corners to make a “secret star” appear.

Now combine the flying geese units, some cornered square units, a few strips and a square and you get this interesting block: 

The tan squares and strips make a “wheel” design around the star. In fact, I made a whole quilt out of these blocks called Twilight Desert.

For this quilt above, I also alternated the background of the blocks between tan and a color print to make it more interesting.

Well, that’s it for this week. I hope you enjoyed my tips on playing with strips to make some interesting blocks. Have fun in your stash. Here’s Addie who decided to sit on my block samples to make them her own.

Happy Quilting!
Deanne