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Quilting Tips… Fabric, Threads and More

The last few weeks, we’ve talked about cleaning your machine, using the right needles, caring for your cutting mat and building a fabric stash. So, this week I thought I would throw in some tips on fabric and threads and various other tips that will make your quilting experience fun and more relaxing. Let’s get started!

Fabric Facts & Tips

The common belief is that fabric has a width of 44″. But, you can not depend on all of that as usable. One reason is the selvage of the fabric.

Selvage is the tightly woven, finished edges of fabric on the lengthwise grain. This prevents the woven fabric from fraying or unraveling. The selvages are cut off before you cut from your piece of fabric. For that reason, the actual usable fabric width is between those selvages. You can also lose width from pre-washing the fabric if that’s something you do. For those reasons most patterns, mine included, assume 40″ of usable width. So, here’s a few tips:

Tip #1: Don’t assume the pattern writer of the pattern you want to make assumes 40″ width of fabric unless it’s stated on the pattern. If I do not know the width assumed, I will purchase about 1/8 yard extra than noted on the pattern. This also allows for width lost when squaring the fabric up, pre-washing it or for cutting errors … we all make them!

Tip #2: Cut largest to smallest pieces from a piece of fabric. My patterns list all the cutting instructions up front and go from the largest piece to the smallest.

Not all patterns are written this way. So, it’s a good idea to read the whole pattern through, front to back, before you start cutting. That way you can be sure not to run out of fabric.

Tip #3: It’s a good idea to understand the grain of the fabric and bias so you know how a fabric will behave in a unit or block you are creating. It’s also important to know this because some patterns will tell you to cut certain pieces on the lengthwise or crosswise grain. Here’s a brief run down:

The lengthwise grain (warp) of the fabric is parallel to the selvage. This is where the fabric is  most stable.

The crosswise grain (weft) is perpendicular to the selvages. It is a little less stable than the lengthwise grain.

Bias of the fabric is at a 45 degree angle from the selvages of a piece of fabric.

On the bias,  the fabric is the least stable and has the most stretch to it. That’s why binding cut on the bias is used for quilt tops with scalloped edges or for a circular quilt. Also, any seam sewn on the bias (like in half-square triangle squares) must be handled with care when pressing or ripping out a seam so the fabric is not stretched out of shape. Once fabric is stretched on the bias, it usually stays distorted.

See how stretchy it is on the bias?

Thread Facts & Tips

Tip #1: Remember last week’s post about cleaning your machine of lint? That lint comes from the fabric, batting and thread you choose to use. Let’s focus on thread. The higher the quality thread, the less lint will be created. It’s that old adage “you get what you pay for”. I like Auriful 100% cotton 50wt thread.

 

I have found this thread has created the least amount of lint compared to other threads I have used. Aurifil is a high quality cotton thread that is manufactured in a way that makes it less lint producing.

Tip #2: I like to keep an array of neutral threads so I can match the shade to the fabric I’m piecing.

This way, if any stitches are visible in the seams, they won’t show as much if the shade is closely matched to your fabric. You wouldn’t want to use a black thread when piecing light fabrics together or white thread when piecing dark or black pieces of fabric together. 

Tip #3: Believe it or not, if your needle is old, it can damage your thread. It can help to create more lint, fray the thread or even break it. So, make sure to have a fresh needle for each project. Needles are not expensive, so keep a good supply on hand.

Tip #4:  Did you know the way the thread is wound onto the spool determines how you should use it on your machine? Most sewing machines these days come with horizontal and vertical spool holders. Certain types of spools are meant to be used on one or the other.  Using the spool on the correct holder allows the thread to unwind as it should.

Cross-wound thread looks like below and should be used on a horizontal spool holder:

This allows the thread to unspool from over the top of the spool pin to keep it unspooling smoothly.

Horizontally wound thread looks like below and is meant to be used on the spool pin vertically.

They can be used on a horizontal spool pin but they perform best on a vertical spool holder so the thread unwinds at a 45 degree angle. This keeps the thread from getting caught in the space between the thread and spool causing tension problems.

Tip #5: Random last tip… snip your thread at a 45 degree angle for easier needle threading! It really works!

So, that’s it for this week. Leave a comment or ask a question below and I will choose someone to win a spool of Aurifil and my pattern, Twinkle Twinkle.

The drawing will be on Monday, February 8th. ***We have a winner! Congrats, Jackie Brooks!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Needle and Thread Facts and Tips

So since you can’t quilt without needles and thread, I thought I’d do a bit of research and share some interesting facts and some tips! You’ll be surprised that knowing some of these things will help to make your stitching experience more enjoyable. Some of this may be old news to you, but some might not be. It doesn’t hurt to learn something new, right?

Thread Tip & Facts

Know How the Thread is Wound:

Have you ever experienced problems with your thread and not know why? Here’s a handy little fact: the way the thread is wound onto the spool determines how you should use it on your machine. Most sewing machines these days come with horizontal and vertical spool holders. Certain types of spools are meant to be used on one or the other.  Using the spool on the correct holder allows the thread to unwind as it should.

First, there are threads that are cross wound. Look at your spool. If it looks like the photo below, that is cross wound:

Notice the zig-zag look. Tip: These spools are best used on the horizontal spindle that allows the thread to unwind from the top. Secure the spool with the spool pin (see photo below) that comes with the machine, making sure it’s snug so thread does not get caught between the spool and spool pin. That could cause tension problems.

The other way thread is wound is horizontally onto the spool. These are called stacked threads.

Tip: These spools perform best on a vertical spool holder so the thread unwinds at a 45 degree angle. This keeps the thread from getting caught in the space between the thread and spool causing tension problems.

How to Read Thread Weights

Thread weight is important to know because different weights of thread perform differently. How do you know what weight your thread is? Most spools will have a number on it that looks like this:

That fraction, 50/2, tells you that the thread is 50 weight and 2 ply. The higher the weight number, the thinner your thread will be. 50 weight is a standard weight that most quilters use for machine piecing and quilting. I recommend a high quality 100% cotton 50 wt thread like Aurifil. It’s best to use at least 2 ply thread. The higher the ply, the stronger the thread. Now, when a project you are starting says “you need 50 wt 3 ply thread” you will know how to find it!

Needle Tips

Tip #1: Sewing machine needles need to be changed often, not only when you break one. Needles get dull and develop damage not visible to the naked eye. A good rule of thumb is to change the needle after you finish piecing  project. If you sew with a needle that should be changed, you can cause damage to your fabric. A dull or damaged needle can snag fabric and break your thread. Needles are fairly inexpensive so stock up the next time you are at the quilt shop and change it often!

If you have not used up the needle but need to change it to do something else, put the partially used needle back in the case with the flat part of the shaft facing up so you remember which is used.

Tip #2: Use the right needle size. Most piecing of 100% cotton fabrics can be done with a universal 80/12 needle. The two numbers represent the two sizing systems: metric (or European) and Singer (or American). The “80” is the metric and the “12” is the Singer. All you need to know is the numbers refer to the diameter of the needle. The lower the number, the finer the needle. Light to medium weight quilting fabrics can be pieced with a needle from 75/11 to 90/14. Most needles made for machine quilting on your home machine are 90/14.

Tip #3: If you do not have a built in needle threader on your machine, place a bright piece of paper behind the needle when threading it. This will help you to see the eye of the needle better.

Also, snipping your thread at a 45 degree angle helps with the threading. This works with a hand sewing needle as well.

So that’s all for today! If you have any comments or questions, feel free to post below and I will try to answer you as soon as I can.

Happy Stitching!
Deanne