Snuggles Quilts

Snuggles Quilts

MENU

Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 3

Welcome back! I’m glad you are here for the final installment of my wool appliqué series. If you are just finding me, you can find the other two parts of the series here: Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 1 and Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 2. This week, we move on to wool appliqué stitching. I will share some of my tips and tricks to make this a really fun experience for you. It’s stitching time!

Wool Appliqué Stitching

There are two standard stitches that are the most common ones used to stitch appliqué shapes to the background. The first is the blanket stitch which looks like this:

I use perle cotton thread in neutral colors. I like Valdani Perle Cotton, size 8. However, the thread that you use and the color is your choice! You can even use embroidery floss. Use the amount of strands that gives you the thickness you like.

Here’s how the blanket stitch looks on a project:

You can use threads that contrast so you get a primitive look or you can use threads that match the color of your appliqué shape so the stitches disappear or blend in.

The next stitch I often use on thin pieces, like the stems made from strips, is called the whip stitch:

I use this stitch on the thin stems because I feel the blanket stitch is too wide. Here’s how it looks on a stem:

Here’s my mini video tutorial on stitching, including stitching points and inside corners, to help with your stitching understanding:

Some Stitching Tips

Now onto some of my tips for appliqué stitching to make your experience more relaxing and fun.

Tip#1: Good lighting is essential when stitching. I like a task light that sits on the table if I’m stitching there or a floor lamp if I am stitching in a chair watching TV.

Good lighting helps you to make even stitches and saves you from eye strain! It’s even better when your light has a magnifier. That will also help. you to make even stitches.

Tip #2: To get your thread prepared for stitching, pull off a piece of the thread no longer than 18″. If you have a longer piece, there is more of a chance that it gets tangled and frayed. To prevent as much fraying as possible, I use Thread Magic thread conditioner.

It’s not beeswax and it’s acid free so it’s safe for all your fabrics and threads. I like the design of the container too. Those indentations allow you to make use of all of the product without having to dig into the container.

Simply run your thread through like shown in the photo:

Tip #3: Here is a technique you can use to make sure your stitches are evenly spaced. Mark two lines on your thumb and use that as a guide for stitch spacing.

Tip #4: Use a chenille needle for stitching. 

My preferred size is #22 because it has a larger eye for easy threading. If you want a shorter needle, you can use the #24 size, but beware, the eye is a little smaller on that one.

Tip #5: When you have finished stitching a piece or you have come to an end of the thread, here is a handy way to end so there is no need to knot:

Simply feed the tail of the thread through the last few stitches on the back of the project, as shown in the photos above. This should secure it.

Embellishments

Now for some fun stuff! Here’s some creative stitching that can add a little pizazz to your project. Use these stitches for smaller pieces or stems if you do not want to use the blanket or whip stitch. I had some fun doing these and it also adds some interest to your project.

Here are some stem stitches:

For small pieces like berries or small squares, this is what I chose to do:

French knots in the berries add a fun dimension. The little “x” in the square of wool on the right secures the piece to the project and adds a little whimsy. Finally, for the center of a flower, I did a French knot and some radiating stitches:

So that is all for part 3 of my Welcome to Wool Appliqué series. I hope you enjoyed it and learned something new! Please leave a comment or ask any questions below and be entered into the drawing for the prize package below:

The drawing will be on Monday, January 10th. Good luck!**We have a winner! Congrats, Wendy!***

Happy Stitching!
Deanne

Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 2

Welcome back to the second installment of my wool appliqué series. Last week I covered templates and preparing the background, which included some of the tools needed. If you missed it, find the post here: Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 1. This week, I will cover fusing the wool and laying out the design on the background. I will share tips on how to do this so you are ready to stitch in no time. So, let’s get started!

Creating the Wool Shapes

This is where you get to use the fusible shapes you cut out last week to create your wool appliqués. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the fusible web brand you chose to fuse the shapes to the wool using your iron.

Notice how I have placed the fusible templates for the flower up in the corner of the piece of wool. That is how I make sure I am not creating any waste. Wool is expensive so you want to have as little waste as possible.

Tip! Wool can be used on either side, however one side of your piece of wool may be prettier than the other, especially if you have a piece of hand dyed wool. Choose the side you like and iron the fusible shape to the other side.

Once the pieces are fused, I cut away all the usable wool and put that back in my stash. I actually use a small serrated scissors that is used only for this task.

Now is the time you use the drawn lines to cut out the shapes. This is why we cut out the fusible shapes outside the lines last week, so our final wool appliqués look like the actual flower. It’s easier to cut along lines now than trying to follow the outside of the shape, if there were no lines.

Once the shapes are cut out, you can peel off the paper backing from the back of the wool shape and now it’s ready for the layout and stitching! Note the shiny side in the last photo; that is the fusible side. Don’t forget to pull off the paper! Trust me… I’ve done that before.

Design Layout

Now that you have all the appliqué shapes cut out from the wool, it’s time to layout the design. We will now use those lines you drew or folded into your background last week. 

Stems: If your appliqué motif has stems, those are usually laid out first and glued in place. Stems for these projects are commonly as thin as 1/4″ so I do not use templates and fusible. I simply cut strips for the stems from a piece of wool, lay them out and use a small amount of glue to secure.

Tip! Use the other motif pieces as a guide for getting your stems in the correct position.

As you can see from the above photos, I am using the folds in the background, the flower pot and one of the flowers as guides to laying out my stems. Once I have them in the right place, I glue the stems so they do not move when I fuse the rest of the design. My favorite glue to use is Roxanne’s Glue Baste-it.

Layout & Fuse

Now it’s time to layout the rest of the design and fuse it in place. Here’s the design all laid out:

Now that it’s all set in place, it’s time to fuse. I use a method of steaming without putting water in the iron. I carefully place a towel over the whole block, spray it with water from a spray bottle and then press the iron down in sections on top of the towel.

Use a white towel with no dyes that can potentially transfer onto your project. When the fusing is done, carefully lift the towel starting at the top checking to see if everything is fused securely. Repeat the spray and press step as long as it takes to fuse everything down.

Here’s my mini video tutorial that covers these steps to give you a better understanding, especially of the fusing process.

So that’s it for part 2 of the series. Come back on January 3rd for the final installment where I cover stitching. I’ll have some tips & tricks for that. Leave a comment or ask any questions you have below and be entered into the drawing for the wool appliqué prize package.

The drawing will be on Monday, January 10th so you have lots of time to enter! See you for the final installment next week.**We have a winner! Congrats, Wendy!***

Happy Stitching!
Deanne

Welcome to Wool Appliqué – Part 1

Hi! Welcome to my 3 part series on wool appliqué. Starting today, and over the two weeks following, I will share the steps I take when working on a wool appliqué project. I will share my tips and advice so you can take on wool appliqué with new confidence. Of course my advice and tips are not the ultimate word on wool appliqué, this is just how I teach it. I have also filmed a 3 part mini video tutorial series that I will share along with these posts. I know many people are visual learners so I think the videos will help in that area. Feel free to share your comments and tips below!

Getting Started

Throughout the series, I will highlight the tools that are needed for wool appliqué. These are things I find essential. Of course, these are not all the tools out there used for wool appliqué. You may find others available as you get more into wool appliqué that you find helpful and essential.

First, you need the pattern template page, some card stock, scissors for cutting paper and a regular or mechanical pencil.

You can either make a copy of the template page directly onto the cardstock, if your printer will do that, or you can trace the shapes from the pattern page and then glue them to the card stock. I like to keep the pattern intact in case I want to use it later. Either way, this makes your templates reinforced for repeated use.

Cut the templates from the card stock using the scissors. You can see that the templates are marked with how many of the shapes are needed and from what color wool. Once you have used them, you can place them in a bag and attach the it to the pattern for future use. 

My next essential tool is fusible web. My favorite brand is Heat n’ Bond Featherlight. I find that it is the right weight and does not add any stiffness to my wool appliqués.

There are other fusibles on the market and if you like, feel free to experiment and find the one you like the best.

Now it’s time to trace the templates onto the fusible using your regular or mechanical pencil. Trace them onto the paper side of the fusible web. If you have any templates that are not symmetrical, you need to reverse that template before tracing since the fusible will be fused onto the back side of the wool. For this example, that is the flower pot.

Since I want the handle to face left on my project, I need to trace the pot template onto the fusible with the handle facing right as shown above.

When tracing the shapes, make sure to leave enough space to cut them out outside the drawn lines by a bit. I don’t like to cut the fusible shapes out right on the line because I use the line later when cutting the wool pieces out. This assures me that I don’t lose any of the shape of the motif. See photos below:

However if you have templates, like the leaves in the center photo, that will be from the same piece of wool, you can trace them very close together. It’s a good idea to do this because wool is expensive and you want as little waste as possible.

Once you have them all cut out and ready to go, it’s time to prepare the background before we move on to fusing wool and laying out the design, which will be in part 2 next week.

Preparing the Background

Step 1: To get the background ready for the design and stitching, I have a few steps to prepare it. First, I like to reinforce the edges of the block with Fray Check.

Doing this prevents fraying while handling the block as you stitch. If your fabric frays a lot, you could lose seam allowance and your block will no longer measure the size it should. Now this is an optional step, but I recommend it highly.

Step 2: The next step in preparing the background is defining your stitching space. I like to measure in 1/2″ from all sides and draw a line. The space inside those lines is where the design will be laid out and stitched.

By defining the space ahead of time, you won’t accidently stitch some of your design into the seam allowance where it will be cut off when you sew the blocks together. I do 1/2″ on all sides so it keeps the design 1/4″ away from the seam allowance.

Step 3: Finally, I like to draw lines or make fold lines in the background to act as a guide for laying out my appliqué motif.

The photos above show how I fold and crease my background. I also use the fabric marking pencil I used to mark the lines on the outside of the background to place a “dot” in the center of the block as a point of reference. If you don’t want to fold and do creases, use a ruler and the fabric marking pencil and lightly draw those quadrant lines.

Here is my mini video tutorial covering what I talked about this week:

So that’s it for this week! Come back next week on December 27th for part 2.

Ask me questions or leave comments below and you will be entered into a drawing for a wool appliqué gift pack that includes my pattern, Snugg-let Sweet Summer, Roxanne’s small glue, a pack of chenille needles and a ball of Valdani Perle cotton.

The drawing will be on Monday, January 10th at the end of the 3 part series! **We have a winner! Congrats, Wendy!***

Happy Stitching!
Deanne

Wool Applique Mini Class – Part 2

Welcome back! This is part 2 and the final part of my wool applique mini class. If you missed the previous posts in this series, you can find them here: Wool Applique – Tips and Tools to Get You Stitching and Wool Applique Mini Class – Part 1. This week we will begin to stitch the wool appliques that we cut out and fused into place last week. I will have two mini tutorial videos that demonstrate stitching (at the end of the post) and also show you some photos of “fun” stitching. So let’s get started!

Stitching

As we covered in the first post of this series, I use perle cotton thread in neutral colors. I like Valdani Perle Cotton, size 8. However, the thread that you use and the color is your choice! Here are the most common stitched used when stitching down your applique. The first one is the blanket stitch:

This is how it looks on a real project:

The next stitch I often use on thin pieces, like stems made from strips, is call the whip stitch:

Here is a stem that I used this stitch on:

I like to use this stitch on stems because I think the blanket stitch would overwhelm such a thin strip of wool.

Now that you have chosen the type of stitch you will be using, it’s time to get your thread prepared. I pull off a piece of the thread no longer than 18″. I think if you have a longer piece, there is more of a chance that it gets tangled and frayed. To prevent as much fraying as possible, I use Thread Magic thread conditioner.

It’s not beeswax and it’s acid free so it’s safe for all your fabrics and threads. I like the design of the container too. Those indentations allow you to make use of all the product without having to dig into the container.

Simply run your thread through like shown in the photo:

Here is a technique you can use to make sure your stitches are evenly spaced. Mark two lines on your thumb and use that as a guide for stitch spacing!

When you have finished stitching a piece or you have come to an end of the thread, here is a handy way to end so there is no need to knot:

Simply feed the tail of the thread through the last few stitches on the back of the project. This should secure it.

Fun Stitches

Here are a few creative ways to stitch smaller pieces or stems if you do not want to use the blanket or whip stitch. I had some fun doing these and it also adds some interest to your project.

Here are some stem stitches:

For small pieces like berries or small squares, this is what I chose to do:

Finally, for the center of a flower, I did a French knot and some radiating stitches:

Stitching Mini Video Tutorials

So now that you have read about stitches and looked at photos, here are two mini video tutorials showing you stitching and working with points and inside corners.

Alright! Was that fun? I hope the mini video tutorials were helpful. The stitching takes a bit of practice, but I know you can master it. I find it relaxing to stitch a project. The fun part is it can be taken anywhere!

Time to stitch!
Deanne

Wool Applique Mini Class – Part 1

Welcome back! Last week, I shared some tips and tools needed for wool applique. This week, we’ll start using those tips and tools. Most of my wool applique patterns are wool on fabric so that’s what you will see in my examples. However, the tips I share can also be used for wool on wool applique. This week, I’ll cover using the templates through laying out the design. Next week we’ll cover stitching. So let’s get started!

Step 1

Now that you have your fabric background ready and your templates reinforced, it’s time to turn those templates into wool shapes for your project.

First, you will use your templates to trace the shapes needed onto fusible web. I like to use Heat n’ Bond Featherlite, but feel free to use your preferred brand. Use your template to trace the number of shapes needed for your motif onto the paper side. The shiny side will be what fuses to the wool.  I like to trace my shapes as close as possible, still leaving about 1/4″ between tracings.

When you cut the shapes out from the fusible, be sure not to cut right on the line but outside the line. The line will be used later. Here’s the pieces cut out:

Be sure to reverse templates that are not symmetrical. For example, if you have a jug with a handle that is supposed to face left when you place the wool piece on your background, you need to lay the template for that jug on the fusible web with the handle facing right. Pay attention, because some designers may have the templates in the pattern already reversed for use.

Step 2

Time to iron the fusible pieces onto the wool! Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions provided with the fusible you choose for the iron temprature. You’ll want to fuse your shapes as close together as possible since wool is so expensive. Most patterns give measurements for the size of wool piece needed for each color. Here’s how I laid mine out (on the left) and what it looks like after I pressed with the iron (right):

Notice the amount of wool left on the right side. You can cut away this chunk and stash it in your wool stash for the next project. 

Now it’s time to cut the pieces out. This is when you use the drawn line. We saved it for now because it helps to have a line as a guide. This ensures that your wool pieces will look like they should.

Now, just peel off the paper backing, flip over the wool piece and it’s ready to fuse to the background.

Step 3

Fusing to the background is made simple by using your iron and a wet, white towel! This creates a “steaming” effect that helps to fuse the piece to the background so it stays there until you are ready to stitch. To do this, you need a white towel, to prevent color transfer from the towel to your project, a spray bottle of water and your iron.

Here’s an example of one of the 2020 BOM blocks where I fused everything down first before stitching:

The only thing I do not use fusible for is stems. Most of the time, those are just thin wool strips, so it’s easier just to cut them as strips and secure them with the fabric glue. When I laid out my design above, I positioned the stems using the other wool pieces as a guide. I then glued the stems in place before fusing the other pieces down.

Here’s the technique I use for fusing. I lay a clean, white towel (I find stacks of these at the local dollar store) over my design, careful not to move any of the pieces I laid out. Then I spray the towel with the water until it’s very damp. Finally, lay the iron on the wet area to create the steam. I usually lay it down for about 15 seconds, then carefully lift the towel to check on the fusing. You can repeat as necessary to secure everything.

Here’s the piece after it’s been fused:

Now, you’re ready to stitch! Come back next week where I will finish this mini class by showing you the stitches I use. I also have a couple of mini-tutorial videos where I am demonstrating the stitching.

The drawing for wool applique supplies is still going! Leave a comment below or ask me any questions you may have on today’s mini class. I’ll try to answer them as best as I can. You will be entered into the drawing for these items:

The drawing will be on Monday, August 17th. Good luck!  ***We have a winner! Congrats, Donna Schulz!***

Until next week… Happy stitching!
Deanne

2019 BOM Block 11 and Wool Applique Tutorial

Hi! It’s time for the last block in the 2019 BOM series. Next month, on December 15th, I will have instructions for finishing the block of the month top. You can actually finish your project any way you want….. you can even use each block as a mini quilt on it’s own if you like!

So here is block 11:

Find the pattern for the block here: 2019 BOM Block 11

Since you will be doing some wool applique stitching, I thought I would re-share a couple of stitching tutorials I shared earlier this year as a refresher. The video below is general wool applique stitching.

This next mini video is how I stitch points and inside corners. My method may not be how others do it, so I won’t say it’s the definitive way it should be done. It’s just how I do it. Hope it helps!

As with the other blocks in this BOM, I have a limited amount of wool only kits in my shop. When they’re gone, they’re gone!

Shop here for the kit: 2019 BOM Block 11 Kit

Now for some other wool applique tips and hacks. These are some tips that I talk about when I teach wool applique in the hopes of making everyone’s stitching experience the best it could be!

Tip#1

If wool is not pre-washed, wash the pieces in hot water and rinse in cold. Dry in a hot dryer. You can tell wool is not pre-washed if it frays easily and feels thin. It’s best when purchasing wool to ask the shop owner if it’s ready to use or needs pre-washing.

Tip#2

Good lighting helps with your stitching. I like a light with a magnifier on top so I can see the length and spacing of my stitching. It can be a desk top (like mine) or a floor lamp. Either one works great.

Tip #3

You can either affix the wool applique pieces to the background using fabric glue, like Roxanne’s Glue Baste-it, small appliqué pins or fuse the pieces to the background by ironing.

 If you choose the latter, lay a towel on the ironing board, then lay your background with all the wool pieces in place on the towel. Then carefully, so you don’t move any of the appliqués, place a white towel over the project and spray water over the towel using a spray bottle. With a medium/high iron, press the towel to fuse the pieces on the project underneath. Make sure you are pressing and not moving the iron back and forth because that could move your pieces out of place. Periodically, carefully lift the upper towel and check your pieces to see if they are fusing to the background. The towel below the project will keep your wool from “flattening” out. The example below is just one applique piece, but you can use this method of fusing for an entire design.

So, that’s all for today. I hope the mini tutorials were helpful and the tips too! Leave me a comment on this post and be entered into the drawing for the Little Gripper handle for your ruler. That drawing is going to be on Monday, November 25th! **We have a winner! Congrats, Joanna Perry!**

Wool Applique Tips and Techniques

If you missed my announcement on January 15th, I released the first block in my 2019 BOM wool applique project!

For more information on this block and the free pattern, go to my Block of the Month page.

So, if you want to join in on the fun, but do not know anything about wool applique, I’m going to give you some tips and techniques here.

First of all, my wool applique projects are stitched on 100% cotton backgrounds. Sometimes they are pieced backgrounds like the block above or sometimes just a plain background will do. In my BOM project patterns, if there is a pieced background needed, the instructions are included in the pattern.

Step 1: Once I have my background block, I like to reinforce the edges with Fray Check to keep the block from fraying from all the handling while stitching.

Step 2: Templates. In my patterns, the templates are included. I like to reinforce them by gluing the page with the templates onto a piece of cardstock or thin cardboard. Then I cut out each template. Reinforcing them allows you to re-use the over several times. It also keeps your shapes from distorting as you trace around them.

Once you have your templates ready, it’s time to trace them onto fusible web. I use Heat’n Bond Featherlite, but you can use your preferred brand. Check with your local quilt shop on what they like to use. Using a pencil, trace the shapes needed onto the paper side of the fusible web.

Leave enough space between your tracings for cutting out the shapes. You’ll want to cut out the shapes outside the lines. My templates are ready to trace but all patterns may not be the same. If there is a motif that needs to face a particular way, you will have to trace the template reversed. For example, if you have a jug with a handle that faces to the right on the project, you need to trace the template for the jug with the handle facing to the left.

Step 3: Time to fuse the fusible web shape to the chosen wool. Since wool is expensive, you need to position your pieces on the wool to close together as shown, leaving room to cut out the pieces. Make sure to place the fusible shape with the paper side up. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the type of fusible you purchased for iron temperature, etc.

Now when you cut out the units, the top part of the wool can be saved for a future project.

Believe me… I keep all my scraps! You never know when you’ll need them.

Step 4: Now it’s time to fuse the wool shape to the background. Peel the paper backing off the shape and there will be a shiny surface left on the wool piece. Place the shiny side down on the background fabric.

I like to use a white towel dampened with water to cover the wool motif, then I press to fuse the piece to the background. The steam from the damp towel helps to fuse the wool to the background. Also, the towel protects the wool pieces from the iron.

Now you’re ready to stitch!

Come back later this week for a stitching mini tutorial. It will be a short video demonstrating how to do the blanket stitch which is the most common stitch used.

Until then, enjoy getting ready for the stitching!

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne