wool applique tips – Snuggles Quilts

Talking About Wool Appliqué – Part 2

In last week’s post, I covered some basics on choosing your backgrounds and wool for your project. In the BOM post two weeks ago, I talked about the supplies I recommend for wool appliqué. So all that is left this week is to cover stitching with some of my tips. Like I’ve mentioned in previous posts, I have a 3 part wool appliqué series on YouTube that you can watch to put it all together. I cover everything from preparing and using templates to motif layout to stitching demos.

Let’s get started on this week’s post.

Wool Appliqué Stitching

There are two basic stitches most commonly used by stitchers to secure their wool appliqué pieces to the background of their project. The first is the blanket stitch and looks like this diagram I have drawn below:

This is how the stitch actually looks on a project:

You can use threads that match the color of your wool piece or you can do a contrasting thread, like I did, so the stitches show. I like my stitches to show to give my projects a primitive look.

My favorite threads to use are perle cottons in neutral tones. I use Valdani size 8. You can use whatever brand of perle cottons you like or you can use embroidery floss. If you use floss, you will need to use enough strands to get the right amount of thickness you prefer.

The next stitch used is the whip stitch:

I like to use a whip stitch on tinier pieces that are not wide enough for the “teeth” of a blanket stitch, like thin stems. Or I will use the whip stitch when I do not want my stitches very visible, even if I am using matching threads. It’s easier to hide a whip stitch than a blanket stitch.

Here’s how the whip stitch looks on one of my stems:

The whip stitches appear as little “dots” along the edge of the wool. And if you use a thread that closely matches the color of the wool, those stitches will basically disappear.

Stitching Tips for Relaxing Stitching

Here are some of my favorite stitching tips that I share when I teach wool appliqué workshops. My aim is to make your stitching experience relaxing and fun… no stress as it should be!

Tip#1: Good lighting is essential when stitching. I like a task light that sits on the table, if I’m stitching there, or a floor lamp if I am stitching in a chair watching TV. I showed photos of those different lamps in my BOM post 2 weeks ago (click the link in the opening paragraph above to see them).

Tip #2: To get your thread prepared for stitching, pull off a piece of the thread no longer than 18″. If you have a longer piece, there is more of a chance that it gets tangled and frayed. To prevent as much fraying as possible, I use Thread Magic thread conditioner.

This is an acid free treatment for the thread that is not beeswax. It leaves no residue on your project. I like this brand because of the design of the container. The slots (photo on right above) make it easier to run your thread through and enable you to use the entire amount of the product in the container. Just run your thread over the top of the thread conditioner and it coats it for easy stitching.

Tip #3: If you worry about the evenness of your stitching, here is a technique you can use to make sure your stitches are evenly spaced. Mark two lines on your thumb and use that as a guide for stitch spacing.

Tip #4: As for needles, my favorite needle is called a chenille needle. I like the John James chenille needles, but you can use any brand you like. I’ve used sizes 22 and 24. I prefer the size 22 needles because they have a wider eye to accommodate the thicker perle cotton threads.

Tip #5: When you have finished stitching a piece or you have come to an end of your thread, here is a handy way to end so there is no knot on the back:

Turn the project over and feed your needle through the last few stitches (first 2 photos). Once you pull it through, snip the thread and the stitch is secured (last photo).

Now Time for the Fun!

Below, I stitched a crisscross pattern on the stems on the left. On the right, I just stitched a running stitch down the center of the stem to secure it. These options would be instead of the blanket or whip stitch.

Also, to secure berries onto a project or the small square in the photo on the right, I use French knots or an “x” stitch. That square on the right is only 1/2 x 1/2″ so the “x” is probably the best way to stitch it down.

Finally, I had some fun on the center of the flower below. I used a French knot in the middle and then radiated stitches from it for an interesting design element.

So that’s it for my Talking About Wool Appliqué posts. Leave a comment or ask a question below and I will enter you into a drawing for my pattern, In Season:

The drawing will be on Monday, December 15th. ***We have a winner! Congrats, Karen Kimball***

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

Talking About Wool Appliqué

Now that you have seen the preview for the 2026 BOM, it’s time to review the technique of wool appliqué on fabric. There are other types of projects for wool appliqué where the wool is appliquéd to wool, but I use fabric as my background for two reasons. Fabric is less expensive than wool and, at times, I like to piece a background for more fun. So let’s go with my tips.

Choosing a Background

Before we get to the type of wools that can be used, you need to decide on a background for a project. For my patterns, I choose to do wool appliqué on fabric backgrounds to save quilters some money. Since wool is quite a bit more expensive than fabric by the yard, it’s more cost effective to have a fabric background. It also provides an opportunity to have a pieced background to give a project an interesting dimension.

Sometimes I choose a fabric with some “personality” for a background, like I have done with the 2026 BOM:

The stripe of the fabric gives your eye another design to look at along with the wool design. I think it creates a fun contrast. Then there’s my technique of piecing a fabric background and adding wool appliqué afterwards.

For Gather ‘Round the Tree, I pieced a Christmas tree and then added the wool appliqué accents. The added benefit to this design is if you are not a fan of wool appliqué, you can use fabric for the embellishments.

The color of the background is also another thing to think about with wool appliqué (and fabric appliqué too!) to make sure your appliqué design pops. Above, on the light background I can use some darker color wools on the motif. But, if the background is dark, I recommend using lighter or more vibrant shades of wool like I did in the two projects below:

On Woolie Seasons Too on the left, the fabric is black so I needed to pick wools that were vibrant enough to show up. With In Season on the right, the fabric isn’t quite as dark as a black but I still wanted brighter wools. If I use a darker wool for an appliqué, like the red for the fireplace on the left, I make sure to add lighter wool accents to keep that piece from fading into the background.

Choosing the Wool

Felted wool or wool felt? What are the differences in these and can you use them both interchangeably? How do you go about felting wool?

First, the difference. 100% wool is a woven textile. It is made when the wool roving is spun into thread and then the threads are woven into the piece of cloth. To turn it into felted wool, it then must be washed in hot water and dried at a high heat. The thickness and weave among these cloths can vary so you get primitive or rustic feel to a project. This wool looks the best when it is hand stitched and it is the more expensive of the two types.

Wool felt is also 100% wool but it is not a woven textile. It starts with wool roving just like the felted wool but instead of spinning it into thread, the roving is “bonded” by a process that includes heat and moisture and agitation. This causes the roving to matte together tightly to make wool felt. This wool is less expensive than felted wool. It tends to be more “uniform” looking but it’s still 100% wool! It’s less rustic looking when appliquéd because there is usually no fraying. This wool also looks good whether it is machine or hand stitched.

The pieces of wool on the left are wool felt and the pieces on the right are felted wool.

You can use them both types of wool in the same project. I have been known to use a large piece of wool felt for a bigger piece in the motif and then use felted wool for smaller pieces in the design. It’s all based on your preferences! Wool felt is not as soft and as felted wool, so a project with a lot of wool felt will feel a little stiffer. But, if it’s a wall hanging, that’s not a big deal. Also, if you decide to use wool as your background, wool felt is less expensive, so a bigger piece would not cost as much.

Felting Wool

Have you ever been to the thrift store and found a sweater, skirt or other wool item in a beautiful color and thought “I’d like to use that in a project?”. Well, you can! You can “felt” wool in your washing machine at home. It’s a process that takes time and practice, but you can do it. Here are the steps:

Use a hot water wash/cold rinse setting on your washer. You’ll want to keep darks and lights separate, just like normal laundry.
You can put the wool into an old pillowcase and tie it closed to avoid getting a washer full of wool threads.
Add in some old towels or jeans to increase the friction during the agitation cycle. *Some people stop here and air dry their wool. They will repeat the washing cycle as many times as needed.*
Next put the wool in a hot dryer to continue the felting process. Each piece of wool can felt differently. Repeat the wash and dry regimen as needed to get the consistency you like.
Be sure to check each piece of wool through the felting process in the washer (and dryer if you use that step) because if it felts too much and becomes too dense, it can be ruined.
Once the wool is dry, you can cut it into the pieces you want.

So, now with these basics, you are ready to get going on a wool appliqué project. You can choose your background fabric and wool with confidence. You can even felt it yourself!

Come back for more wool talk next week. Leave a comment or ask a question and you will be entered into a drawing for the In Season pattern shown above. The drawing will be on Monday, December 15th, so you have two weeks to enter!

***We have a winner! Congrats, Karen Kimball***

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

2026 Block of the Month Preview

It’s the time of the year you have been waiting for (I hope). Time for me to reveal the 2026 BOM blocks that will be offered every month next year. I’ll also chat a bit on some wool appliqué tips I’ve covered before, but it’s always a good time for a review, right? OK, let’s get started!

2026 BOM Blocks

Here’s a photo of all the completed blocks.

I call this pattern: Sheep Year!

This year, the blocks will all be stand alone mini quilts for small quilt hangers. That way you can change them out monthly. If you would like, you can stitch them together with a sashing and make a larger quilt top.

The first block issued will be February so you have time to complete it in January and display it in February.

The blocks will be released to the public on the 15th of each month and the PDF will be free to download. If you want the pattern earlier, you can sign up for my monthly newsletter that goes out at least 7 days earlier to my subscribers. Look for this photo on my website and click on it:

It will open a form for you to enter your name and e-mail address to receive my newsletter and notifications of new patterns. I don’t spam! I know I’ve have signed up at some websites and then get 3 or 4 e-mails a day. I will never do that.

Here’s the fabric I used for the blocks:

I chose a grey stripe from the Harvest Hill line by Kim Diehl for Henry Glass & Co and cut out the blocks so the stripe runs vertically. You can choose the same fabric for all 12 of your blocks or you can choose different fabrics, especially if you are not going to join them into a larger quilt. Here’s how much you need:

1 1/2 yards, cut 12 squares 10 1/2 x 13 1/2″. Once the motif is stitched, the blocks will be trimmed to 9 1/2 x 12 1/2″.

There will be more full instructions in the first newsletter and on my blog the first week of January.

Wool Appliqué Tips

Here are some wool appliqué tips for stitchers, both experienced and beginner. I also have a step by step wool appliqué series on my YouTube page where I cover my tips for making a wool appliqué project from templates to layout to stitching. You can find that series here: Wool Appliqué Series.

Thread Tips

I am often asked what threads I use for wool appliqué. My favorite type of thread is perle cotton, which is a high sheen, twisted cotton thread. It is used in this kind of stitchery and also as embroidery thread. Perle cotton comes in sizes #3, #5, #8 and #12. #3 is the thickest while #12 is the thinnest. My favorite size to use is #8, but you can try the different sizes and decide which is best for you.

DMC is a brand of perle cotton floss people are most familiar with that comes in all those sizes. My favorite brand is Valdani perle cotton:

As you can see above, the colors I use are all in a neutral color scheme. I match my neutral shade with the lightness or darkness of my appliqué piece. However Valdani, like DMC, comes in a large variety of colors if you want to match the thread to the actual color of your appliqué.

For travel sewing, I like to keep my threads in a small plastic box I found in the craft store. This keeps them in order and I can also pull the thread from the side with the cover closed so the thread ball doesn’t roll across the floor.

Needle Tips

I recommend either size 22 or size 24 chenille needles for my type of wool appliqué, which is wool appliqué on fabric. These needles are sharp and have larger eyes for threading perle cotton.

The size 22 needles are longer than the size 24, so use whichever size fits you best. You may want to investigate other needles if you are doing wool appliqué onto different or more delicate fabrics.

Template Tips

For pattern templates that need to be used several times over for tracing, I reinforce them. I do this by either copying them directly onto card stock from the pattern or by gluing the template page to a piece of card stock and then cutting them out.

Once you have them cut out, you can write the number of shapes needed for the design and the color of wool required on the template. Save them in a plastic bag attached to the pattern for future use.

These templates will be used to trace the appliqué shapes onto fusible web, which you will then cut out and fuse to the designated color wool.

Time to Stitch Tips

Since you will be handling the fabric background quite a bit while stitching the appliqué motif, a good tip is to reinforce the edges of the fabric with Fray Check. This will keep your fabric background from fraying into the seam allowance. You’d be surprised how much you can fray away with a lot of handling!

Even if you use fusible web to secure your appliqué motif, it’s always a good idea to keep some fabric glue by your side in case a piece loosens while you are stitching. I use both the larger size and a smaller size that I keep in my thread box.

Both of these are Roxanne Glue products that I have used for years and love. I love the small Dip & Dab because it fits anywhere.

Always stitch where there is good lighting. Of course we all don’t have a bright, sunshiny window to sit by, so task lamps are the second best thing. Good lighting will help you see your stitching so it’s too your liking and you don’t have to tear it out. No one wants to do that!

I have a desk top light and a floor lamp I use depending on where I decide to stitch. A bonus feature is both these lights have magnifiers on them to help me see my stitching better.

I hope you enjoyed the 2026 BOM preview and this review of my wool appliqué tips. Look for more detailed information in January and the first block on January 15th (unless you sign up for my newsletter!).

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

More Upcycling and Recycling for the Sewing Room

Welcome back! I’m glad you enjoyed some of the ideas I shared with you last week. Of course I have a lot more to share with you this week. It seems like the ideas are never ending. Which is a good thing! I like challenging myself this way. I think by the comments on last week’s post, you all do too. So, let’s get going with some more fun sewing room uses of everyday items.

Tip #1

I have another fun idea for bobbin storage! This is a funny one that I thought up one day when I was painting my toes. Toe separators!

I ended up buying a few more of these. The bobbins fit into the spaces and then you can stack them up in drawer. You can fill each one of these separators with filled bobbins of the same color so you can easily change bobbins when stitching a large project.

Tip #2

This is another idea for bobbins, but this one is a way to keep a filled bobbin with the spool of thread it matches. A golf tee works for this.

You can pick up a bag of these for little money in the sporting goods section of a store and put them to good use. Better than finding them in your washing machine after someone forgets to empty their pockets.

Looks like both of these ideas are “Addie approved”!

Tip #3

This and the next few tips are ones for my fellow appliquérs, especially those that like to take their sewing with them on the road. You can use these for fabric and wool appliqué. I repurposed a tin container so I can do fabric appliqué while traveling.

This tin holds a variety of the threads for the project I’m working on, a small scissors, needle threader, mini container of Roxanne’s glue and pre-loaded needles on a magnet that was affixed to the inside of the lid.

I also have a small box for my wool appliqué tools for road sewing.

You can find interesting containers of all sorts in the food or miscellaneous storage sections of many big box stores. Walk through sometime and think up new ways to use them.

Tip #4

Do you use the balls of perle cotton like Valdani? If I am using just one color and I want to keep the cat from chasing the ball across the floor, I came up with this idea:

I punched a small hole in the top of the container, big enough to feed the thread through without snagging, and replaced the cover. Now I’m able to pull out the amount of thread I need and the ball of thread stays put!

Tip #5

A few random items that you can re-purpose:

I like to use my wood pressing stick to press seams open as I sew small units. If you do not have one of those, a good substitute is a cuticle stick.

It will press the seam open enough to join this with another unit.

Looking for a something to use as a stylus? How about that orange peeler that’s sitting unused in your kitchen drawer (or if you use yours, buy another!)

Next up… losing your scissors all the time? I know I often lose mine under the table clutter when I’m sewing. My solution? I bought one of these ball chains in the jewelry making section of the craft store to make a scissors lanyard.

I wear this around my neck while stitching.

Tip #6

Finally, looking for a way to have your pattern propped up by your sewing machine? Many different items can be used. I have used both of these items below at different time.

First up, a plastic sign holder easily found at an office supply store.

Pattern pages can be slipped inside so all the instructions are visible at once. Plus, you can flip it around for the other side of the page.

Then there’s the cookbook holder that can double as a pattern holder:

So that’s it for this my ideas. At least until I think of some others! Share your ideas below and be entered into the drawing for my pattern, Star Spangled.

The drawing will be on Monday, June 30th. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Donna Hanneman!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Wool Talk – Part Two

Welcome back! I hope you enjoyed last week’s Wool Talk. This week I am covering tips and hacks to make your wool appliqué experience an enjoyable one. This will also include my favorite wool appliqué notions. By now those of you who are subscribed to my newsletter have received block 1 of my 2025 Block of the Month. You can use some of the tips and hacks here to get started.

My Favorite Notions & Tools

Threads: My favorite type of thread is perle cotton, which is a high sheen, twisted cotton thread. It is used in this kind of stitchery and also as embroidery thread. Perle cotton comes in sizes #3, #5, #8 and #12. #3 is the thickest while #12 is the thinnest. My favorite size to use is #8, but you can try the different sizes and decide which is best for you. I use Valdani brand:

As you can see above, the colors I use are all in a neutral color scheme. I match my neutral shade with the lightness or darkness of my appliqué piece. But, these threads, like other embroidery threads, also come in a large variety of colors so you can match the thread color to your wool piece if you prefer.

Needles: I recommend either size 22 or size 24 chenille needles for my type of wool appliqué, which is wool appliqué on fabric. These needles are sharp and have larger eyes for threading perle cotton.

Other Tools: Here’s some other essential notions I always have on hand. First up is fusible web. My favorite brand is Heat n’ Bond Featherlight. I find that it is the right weight and does not add any stiffness to my wool appliqués.

Next up, I keep fabric glue by my side, whether I am stitching at home or traveling. Even if you use fusible web to secure your appliqué motif, it’s always a good idea to keep some fabric glue by your side in case a piece loosens while you are stitching. I use both the large size and a smaller size that I keep in my thread box.

Both of these are Roxanne Glue products that I have used for years and love. I love the small Dip & Dab because it fits anywhere.

Finally, good lighting is a must and one of my highly recommended tools. Good lighting will help you see your stitching to make sure it’s to your liking and you won’t have to tear it out. Here’s both the lights I depend on:

I have a desk top light and a floor lamp I use depending on where I decide to stitch. A bonus feature is both these lights have magnifiers on them to help me see my stitching better.

My Favorite Tips & Hacks

Templates: For pattern templates that need to be used several times over for tracing, I reinforce them. I do this by either copying them directly onto card stock from the pattern or by gluing the template page to a piece of card stock and then cutting them out.

Once you have them cut out, you can write the number of shapes needed for the design and the color of wool required on the template. Save them in a plastic bag attached to the pattern for future use.

Project Background: I like to reinforce the edges of the block with Fray Check.

Doing this prevents fraying while handling the block as you stitch. If your fabric frays a lot, you could lose seam allowance and your block will no longer measure the size it should. Now this is an optional step, but I recommend it highly.

I also like to draw a line about 3/4″ in on all four sides of my background fabric to define the area for my motif:

By defining this space ahead of time, you won’t accidently stitch some of your design into the seam allowance where it will be cut off when you sew the blocks together.

Threads: I store the threads in a small box like the one below. The fun thing about this is I can pull a thread I need, close the box and keep feeding the thread. This is a good thing for those of us who have cats that like to play with our threads!

Stitching: You can “eyeball” the space between your stitches to make sure they are the distance apart you want, or you can mark lines on your thumb and use them as a guide for spacing.

Simply place your thumb so the first line lines up with the last stitch you made and use the second line as the marking point to start your next stitch.

If you do not want to end the stitching by tying a knot, you can turn your project over and feed your needle through a few of the stitches on the back and then clip the end as shown in the photos below:

So that’s it for the second part of my Wool Talk. Perhaps you found a new notion to use and I hope you enjoyed my tips and hacks.

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

2025 Block of the Month Preview!

It’s that time of the year again… time for a preview of next year’s BOM project. The new BOM will be in my favorite theme again – seasonal! I love making seasonal blocks so I figured why stop now? You will be able to make four wall hangings from each set of seasonal blocks or you can use each block individually however you like. You can have separate mini wall hangings or even make pillows. The main thing is to just have fun!

BOM Blocks

So here they are! I grouped them by season, each season has 3 blocks.

Starting with the top left, are the spring blocks, then summer to the right. And below those are fall and winter. Hopefully, the cuteness of these blocks entices you to take part in this BOM.

Like in previous years, the patterns are all free throughout the year. However, on December 31, 2025, these patterns will disappear from my website. To get started, I have some starting instructions that you can find here: 2025 BOM Starting Instructions.

Information on the fabric I’ve used for this BOM is in the starting instructions, but I’ll repeat it here. As in previous years, the exact fabric may no longer be available from the manufacturer, so try to get something close if you want the same look as mine.

For the block backgrounds, I used a dark grey print from Henry Glass fabrics, from the Folio collection.

And here is the fabric that I will be using for the sashing and borders. It’s a black on black print (it’s actually darker than it shows in the photo) from Robert Kaufman from the 6th Street Cottons collection by Julie Letvin.

Tips & Tools

These are the tips and tools I like to use every time I am doing wool stitchery. Feel free to adopt them or not. Also, search the internet for other wool appliqué enthusiasts. You never know where you’ll find the tip or tool you can’t live without.

Tip #1: Since my wool appliqué is done on fabric, I recommend treating the edges of the fabric background with Fray Check to prevent the background from fraying too much from handling. This helps save your seam allowance.

Tip #2: If you are stitching wool onto individual blocks, cut the background fabric and inch larger than needed.

For this BOM, the blocks be 9 1/2 x 12 1/2″ (includes seam allowance) for piecing them into the wall hanging, however, we are cutting them 10 1/2 x 13 1/2″. So to keep your motif from getting into the seam allowance or the area that will be trimmed away, draw a line 3/4″ around all sides of the square (photo below). This defines a center 9 x 12″ space for your design. Then try to keep your stitching at least 1/8″ inside that line.

Tip #3: Templates. For pattern templates that need to be used several times over for tracing, I reinforce them. I do this by either copying them directly onto card stock from the pattern or by gluing the template page to a piece of card stock and then cutting them out.

Once you have them cut out, you can write the number of shapes needed for the pattern and the color of wool on the template. Save them in a plastic bag attached to the pattern for future use.

Tip #4: Use the thread color that will complement your project. I like to use Valdani Perle Cotton threads in size 8. I often use an array of neutrals from light to dark, depending on the color of my appliqué piece.

You can also use threads that match the color of your wool appliqué piece so your stitches blend in and don’t show.

If you don’t want to use perle cotton, you can use embroidery floss like DMC. You’ll need to use 3 to 5 strands to mimic the thickness of perle cotton.

Tip #5: Even if you use fusible web to secure your appliqué pieces, it’s always a good idea to keep some fabric glue by your side in case a piece loosens while you are stitching. I use both the large size and a smaller size that I keep in my thread box.

Now That You’re Ready…

The first block will appear on January 15, 2025 and there will be a limited amount of wool only kits available in my shop on that day, as in previous years. If you want the block instructions early, sign up for my newsletter here on my web site. You often receive the block at least a week before the public release.

That’s all for now! If you have not downloaded any of the 2024 blocks but still want to do that BOM someday, download the blocks before 12/31/24. After that, the blocks will disappear and will no longer be free.

If you are interested in being notified about when the kits are available in my shop, please e-mail me at: snugglesquilts@hotmail.com and say you want to be on the list. Please put 2025 BOM in the subject line so your e-mail does not get lost.

Happy Quilting and Stitching!
Deanne

2024 Block of the Month Preview!

It’s the moment you’ve been waiting for … I hope! It’s time for me to reveal the 2024 block of the month blocks. Like last year, I am creating seasonal groups of blocks for each season. At the end of each 3 month time period, you will be able to make a wall hanging for hang for the season! The big reveal will take place below after I share my favorite tips & tools for wool appliqué. Let’s get started!

Tips & Tools

Tip #1: I’m different from many wool stitchers as I like to appliqué my wool motifs onto fabric. Because of this, I recommend treating the edges of the fabric background with Fray Check to prevent the background from fraying too much from handling. This helps save your seam allowance.

Tip #2: If you are stitching wool onto individual blocks, cut the background fabric and inch larger than needed. If your block is supposed to be 12 1/2″, including seam allowance, cut the fabric background 13 1/2″. Then, draw a line 3/4″ around all sides of the square (photo below). This defines a center 12″ space for your design. Then keep your stitching at least 1/8″ inside that line to make sure your motif does not go into the seam allowance.

Once you have them cut out, you can write the number of shapes needed for the pattern and the color of wool on the template. Save them in a plastic bag attached to the pattern for future use.

You can also use threads that match the color of your wool appliqué piece so your stitches blend in and don’t show. I like to store my threads in a small box I found at a local craft store. A school pencil box works also!

If you don’t want to use perle cotton, you can use embroidery floss like DMC. You’ll need to use 3 to 5 strands to mimic the thickness of perle cotton.

2024 BOM

Here’s what you’ve come here for! Below is the preview of all 12 of the 2024 BOM blocks grouped into four seasonal panels.

I hope they look like fun to you! To get started, I have written starting instructions that you can find here: 2024 BOM Starting Instructions.

The fabric I used for the background is from the Cheddar & Coal collection from Marcus Fabrics. It is a line that’s a few years old, but you still may find some in your favorite quilt shop that carries these fabrics. If you want the look of my blocks, you should be able to find fabrics that are close to those I used if you are unable to find the exact fabrics. The background I have chosen is a dark grey with a small black print. The fabric that will be used in the pieced blocks to finish the wall hangings is a black print from the Cheddar & Coal II collection.

The first block will appear on January 15, 2024 and there will be a limited amount of wool only kits available in my shop on that day, as in previous years. If you want the block instructions early, sign up for my newsletter here on my web site. You often receive the block at least a week before the public release.

That’s all for now! If you have not downloaded any of the 2023 blocks but still want to do that BOM someday, download the blocks before 12/31/23. After that, the blocks will disappear and will no longer be free.

Happy Quilting and Stitching!
Deanne

UPDATE: I’ve had some questions on the fabric I used for the BOM. The photo below shows them. The fabric on the right is from the Cheddar & Coal collection and will probably be scarce since that line has been out awhile. That’s why I felt I should share a photo so you can match it with a similar fabric. The fabric on the right is the one that will be used for the pieced blocks that finish each wall hanging.

Wool Appliqué for the Beginner – Part 3

Welcome back for the final installment in this wool appliqué series. If you are just joining us, you can find the previous posts here: Part 1 and Part 2. This week it’s time to learn stitching! I will show how I stitch my wool projects and also show some fun stitches. Like the last two weeks, there will be a mini video tutorial at the end. So let’s get started!

Wool Appliqué Stitching

This is how the stitch actually looks on a project:

You can use threads that match the color of your wool piece or you can do a contrasting thread, like I did, so the stitches show. I like my stitches to show to give my projects a primitive look.

The next stitch used is the whip stitch:

Here’s how the whip stitch looks on one of my stems:

The whip stitches appear as little “dots” along the edge of the wool. And if you use a thread that closely matches the color of the wool, those stitches will basically disappear.

Stitching Tips for Relaxing Stitching

Here are some of my favorite stitching tips that I share when I teach wool appliqué workshops. My aim is to make your stitching experience relaxing and fun… no stress as it should be!

Tip#1: Good lighting is essential when stitching. I like a task light that sits on the table, if I’m stitching there, or a floor lamp if I am stitching in a chair watching TV. Here’s my floor lamp:

The floor lamp has a magnifier which comes in handy for a close-up look of my stitches. I can inspect my stitches and make sure they are even and straight without straining my eyes. My desk top light also has a magnifier:

This is an acid free treatment for the thread that is not beeswax. It leaves no residue on your project. I like this brand because of the design of the container. The slots make it easier to run your thread through and enable you to use the entire amount of the product in the container. Here’s how it works:

Just run your thread over the top of the thread conditioner and it coats it for easy stitching.

Tip #5: When you have finished stitching a piece or you have come to an end of your thread, here is a handy way to end so there is no knot on the back:

Simply guide the remainder of your thread through the last few stitches on the back of your project to secure your stitching.

Now Time for the Fun!

For fun, I like to add embellishments to my stitching. If you are really experienced with the large variety of embroidery stitches out there, consider “dressing up” your project with some of them. I confess, I only know how to make French knots and stitch a lazy daisy … but I am working on learning more!

Below, I stitched a criss-cross pattern on the stems on the left. On the right, I just stitched a running stitch down the center of the stem to secure it. These options would be instead of the blanket or whip stitch.

Finally, I had some fun on the center of the flower below. I used a French knot in the middle and then radiated stitches from it for an interesting design element.

So that’s all for my wool appliqué series for beginners! I really hope I gave you some great tips that you can apply to your stitching whether you are experienced or not.

Don’t forget to view the mini video tutorial at the end. I include a demonstration of how I handle points and inside corners while stitching. Leave comments or ask questions below and you will be entered into a drawing for my two newest Snugg-lets: Snugg-let Winter Friends and Snugg-let Sew with Friends.

The drawing will be next Monday, November 13th. Good luck!**We have a winner! Congrats, Diana DeWitt!**

Happy Stitching,
Deanne

Wool Talk – Stitching Tips & 2023 BOM Block 5

Since the release of block 5 of my 2023 BOM happens to fall on my blogging day, I thought I’d take this opportunity to share some wool appliqué information and tips, including a newer wool stitching video. Even if you are not participating in my 2023 BOM but love to do wool appliqué, I think you’ll get some good information from this post. So let’s get started!

Wool Fabric

First up, we need to talk about the different wool choices out there before you start a wool project. You’ve heard the terms: wool felt and felted wool. But do you know the similarities and the differences? Here’s some facts.

100% wool, also known as felted wool, is a woven textile. It is made when the wool roving is spun into thread and then the threads are woven into the piece of cloth. To turn it into felted wool, it them must be washed in hot water and dried at a high heat. The thickness and weave among these cloths can vary so you get primitive or rustic feel to a project. This wool looks the best when it is hand stitched and is the more expensive of the two.

Wool felt is also 100% wool but it is not a woven textile. It starts with wool roving just like the felted wool but instead of spinning it into thread, the roving is “bonded” by a process that includes heat and moisture and agitation. This causes the roving to matt together tightly to make wool felt. This wool is less expensive than felted wool. It tends to be more “uniform” looking but it’s still 100% wool! It’s less rustic looking when appliqued because there is usually no fraying. This wool also looks just as good whether it is machine or hand stitched. Below are the examples of each:

The wool on the left is the 100% felted wool and the wool pieces on the right are wool felt. You can see the difference. You can use both types of wool in the same project. You can use all felted wool or use felted wool for the large pieces and mix in wool felt for smaller accents or vice versa. I have been known to use a large piece of wool felt for a background, because it’s less expensive, and then my applique motif is created with felted wool. It’s all based on what you prefer. Wool felt is not as soft as felted wool, so a project with a lot of wool felt will feel a little stiffer. But if it’s used in a wall hanging, that’s not a big deal.

Felting Wool

If you find a a piece of wool clothing or fabric at a garage sale or thrift store and you want to add that to your stash, you can felt the wool yourself in your home washing machine. It’s a process that takes time and practice, but you can do it. Here are the steps:

Use a hot water wash/cold rinse setting on your washer. You’ll want to keep darks and lights separate, just like normal laundry.
You can put the wool into an old pillowcase and tie it closed to avoid getting a washer full of wool threads.
Add in some old towels or jeans to increase the friction during the agitation cycle. *Some people stop here and air dry their wool. They will repeat the washing cycle as many times as needed.*
Next put the wool in a hot dryer to continue the felting process. Each piece of wool can felt differently. Repeat the wash and dry regimen as needed to get the consistency you like.
Be sure to check each piece of wool through the felting process in the washer (and dryer if you use that step) because if it felts too much and becomes too dense, it can be ruined.
Once the wool is dry, you can cut it into the pieces you want.

This process works best for 100% wool. If the wool piece you are felting is less than 100%, it will not felt up quite like pure wool, but even fabric that is 80 to 90% wool can work. You may have to repeat the above process until you get the result you like.

Backgrounds

When it comes to stitching your project onto a fabric background, the first step I like to recommend is to treat the background edges with Fray Check to keep them from fraying into the seam allowances as you handle it while stitching.

This is not a required step, but I think it’s important so I do it every time I’m beginning an appliqué project.

My last thought on the background. If you decide not to use wool for the background and choose instead to use a fabric background, like I do the majority of the time, choose that background carefully. Make sure it showcases the wool you are using for the motif. A light background will be more subtle than a dark one. You can use just about any color and shade of wool. But with a dark background, you will need to make sure your wool is bright enough so it doesn’t fade into the dark background.

For example, the colors I chose for the wool flowers for the block on the left would not work so well with the black background of the block on the far right. As your background gets darker, your wool pieces need to be brighter for a good contrast.

Stitching and Threads

Finally on to stitching. First, I like to use an array of neutral threads. My preferred is Valdani perle cotton in size 8.

I like size 8 because it is a medium thickness. I think size 5 is too thick and size 12 is too thin. However, try out different sizes to see which you like the best. If you like to use embroidery floss like DMC, 3 strands of floss will mimic the thickness of size 8 perle cotton.

When you are stitching with a blanket stitch, you determine the length and distance between stitches. As far as I am concerned, there is no hard and fast rule there. But, if you want evenly spaced stitches, here is a fun tip:

Mark two lines on your thumb to guide your stitch distance.

Finally to end stitches, you can either knot the thread on the back, since these will be hidden when you put a backing on your project, or you can feed the tail of thread through the final stitches on the back as shown below:

This is what it looks like when done:

Now here are some fun stitches that can dress up your project. This first one is a crisscross pattern on wool stems:

You can also secure a stem on your project with a running stitch up the middle:

Circles on wool applique are usually stitched using the blanket stitch, but there are a few other ways to secure these. You can do a French knot in the middle of the circle with lines stitched in a way that creates a radiating pattern out from the center (photo on left) or do a pattern of French knots like in the berries on the right:

Here’s my updated stitching video for wool appliqué. I also cover points and inside corners.

2023 BOM Block 5

Now it’s time for the new block reveal. Here it is… BOM block 5:

Find PDF instructions for this block here: 2023 BOM Block 5. I will have a limited supply of wool only kits for this block for sale in my shop later today (Monday 5/15) at 5:00pm central time.

Well, that’s it for this week. Leave a comment or ask a question below and I will enter you into a drawing for my newest wool appliqué pattern, Winter Friends.

The drawing will be on Monday, May 22nd. Good luck! **We have a winner! Congrats, Donna L.!**

Happy Stitching!
Deanne

Wool Appliqué Made Easy – Part 3

We have arrived at the end of the series. I hope you have learned a lot! If you missed the earlier posts, find them here: Part 1 and Part 2. Now that you have navigated through all the steps to prepare your project, it’s time to work on stitching. That is what I will cover this week, including another mini video tutorial to demonstrate. Let’s get started!

Wool Appliqué Stitching

Here’s how it actually looks on a real wool project:

For stitching, my favorite threads to use are perle cottons in neutral tones. I use Valdani size 8. You can use whatever brand of perle cottons you like or you can use embroidery floss. If you use floss, you will need to use enough strands to get the right amount of thickness you prefer.

If you don’t want your stitches to be as visible as mine are, you can choose to use colors of perle cotton or floss that matches the color of your wool piece. I like to use colors that show up for a more primitive look.

The next stitch used is the whip stitch:

I like to use this stitch on thinner pieces like stems or small pennies that do not have a lot of area for the “teeth” of the blanket stitch. Here’s how the whip stitch looks on a stem:

Look closely and you will see little “dots” of thread along the edges.

Here’s my mini video tutorial on stitching, including stitching points and inside corners, to help demonstrate what I have covered:

Some Stitching Tips

Here are some of my favorite stitching tips that I share when I teach wool appliqué workshops. My aim is to make your stitching experience relaxing and fun… no stress as it should be!

Just run your thread over the top of the thread conditioner and it coats it for easy stitching.

Tip #5: When you have finished stitching a piece or you have come to an end of your thread, here is a handy way to end so there is no knot on the back:

Simply guide the remainder of your thread through the last few stitches on the back of your project to secure your stitching.

Now for Some Fun!

Here are some fun ways to stitch down stems if you do not want to use the blanket or whip stitch:

Finally, I had some fun on the center of the flower below. I used a French knot in the middle and then radiated stitches from it for an interesting design element.

So that’s it for this series! Leave a comment or ask a question below and you will be entered into the drawing for the Pumpkin Patch wool kit that includes the pattern and wool.

The drawing will be on Monday, October 10th. Good luck! ***We have a winner! Congrats, Carol!***

Happy Quilting & Stitching!
Deanne

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