This week, I will cover working with bias seams when using the stitch & flip technique (sometimes called “folded corners”). Bias seams need to be approached with a little more care than straight seams.. The facts below will tell you why and my tips should help you when making a unit like this. Next week I’ll cover half-square triangle (HST) squares, which also involve bias seams. So let’s get started.
Fabric Grain & Bias
To understand the difference between a bias (diagonal) seam and a straight seam and why they behave differently, you need to know about fabric grain and bias. This may be a review for experienced sewers and quilters, but it never hurts to see it again.
The lengthwise grain of the fabric runs parallel to the selvage and is the most stable grain of the fabric.
The line I’m pointing to in the left photo (above) is showing the lengthwise grain. In the second photo, notice how there’s not much stretch to the fabric when I pull on opposite sides of the piece of fabric. It’s a good idea to cut in this direction for long pieces needed for the project like border strips, if possible.
The crosswise grain is a little less stable than the lengthwise grain. It’s perpendicular to the selvage (the line my finger is pointing to below). As you can see in the next photo, there is a little more stretch to the fabric in this direction, but not by much.
Finally, the bias of the fabric is at the 45 degree angle from the selvage. This is where the fabric is the least stable.
It’s important to remember this because any seams that are diagonal are in the bias direction of the fabric. Any seam sewn on the bias must be handled with care when pressing it or ripping it out so the fabric is not stretched out of shape. Once fabric is stretched on the bias, it can and likely will remain distorted.
Bias Seam Type – Flying Geese
Other than HSTs, which I will cover next week, lets look at another unit that has bias seams – flying geese. This is one type of unit that is constructed using the stitch & flip technique. I think most of you are familiar with how to make the traditional flying geese unit, but I will review quickly below.
Using 2 squares 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ and a 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ rectangle, the photos below show the steps:
The above photos show the first steps: Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the two squares. When you lay one of the squares face down on the rectangle, pin to keep the square from shifting. Once you sew along the line, the next steps (photos below) are very important:
On the left I am folding over the square, after stitching the seam, to make sure its edge matches up with the edge of the rectangle. The center photo shows that when I measure the unit, it still measures 2 1/2 x 4 1/2″ (the measurement of the rectangle) . I can then trim off the excess fabric in the seam allowance (last photo). That is a key in stitch & flip units, always fold over and measure the unit after stitching before trimming off any excess fabric.
Repeat the above steps on the other side of the rectangle, and you will have a flying geese unit.
Bias Seam Type – Other Stitch & Flips
There are other ways to use the stitch & flip method besides making flying geese. Stitch & flip is also used to make corners on squares that will add a unique look to the design of a block. The block shown below is from my Star Wheels quilt. It has flying geese in it, but also other stitch & flip parts:
I also used stitch & flip in the blocks for my quilt Sunset Sky:
Like I said earlier, you can do stitch and flip on any block unit that has a 90 degree angle like a square or a rectangle. Besides the flying geese units that make up the center stars of the Sunset Sky block, the four corner squares have a lot of stitch & flip units. The Star Wheels blocks also have flying geese and an additional stitch & flip unit. I’m going to demo below using the black pointed units in Star Wheels block from above. The steps are similar to making single flying geese units.
Start with a 2 1/2″ black square and a tan 1 1/2″ square. Draw a line on the wrong side of the tan square as a guide for stitching, lay the smaller square face down on the face up larger one and line up its edges with the edges of the larger square as shown. I like to pin it in place for stitching so the small square does not shift. Then stitch on the line.
Once the seam is sewn, I fold over the square like I did in the flying geese steps above and measure the unit to make sure it still measures 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″ and the edge of the small square lines up with the edge of the larger square. Then I can cut off the excess fabric in the seam allowance (last photo below).
Repeat these steps on the other side of the square to finish that unit:
Here are some other blocks that I’ve made using the stitch & flip technique:
You can create a lot of interesting designs using this method. Just be careful if you have to un-sew any of these bias seams. Like I mentioned earlier, the fabric stretches easier on the bias and you could end up distorting your block pieces. Also once you cut away the excess fabric in the seam allowance, you can’t un-sew the unit and start over. That’s the reason why I have you measure the size of your finished unit prior to cutting any excess seam allowance away.
See my mini video tutorial where I demonstrate stitch & flip steps below:
All done for this week. Next week, I’ll talk about half-square triangle (HST) squares. That’s a pieced unit that all quilters should master since it is found is many different quilt blocks.
Leave a comment or ask a question below and I’ll enter you into a drawing for my pattern, Sun Catcher. The blocks in this pattern will give you lots of practice with stitch & flip.
The drawing will be on Monday, January 26th. Good luck! ***We have a winner! Congrats, Judy Kimber!***
Happy Quilting,
Deanne
