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2022 Block of the Week – We’re Finished!

Hey everyone! If you are here you have made it to the end of this year’s block of the week project. Give yourself a pat on the back! If you are just finding my blog, click the link here to get to last week’s post where you will find links for every week since the beginning. This week it’s time for me to share how I put together my blocks into a fun, scrappy wall hanging. I will give you a link to the directions also. The topic this week is on pieced borders and how they complete a quilt. You’ll see why I chose this when you look at the completed wall hanging.

Make sure to comment or ask questions below. I am going to choose a winner for my prize package on September 19th from everyone who has commented over the whole series. Here’s the package:

So…. drum roll, please…. Here’s my finished wall hanging!

You can find the instructions for completing the wall hanging this way here: 2022 BOW Finishing.

Pieced Borders

As you can see by the wall hanging above, I love to play with borders. I don’t mind plain borders, but as a scrap quilter I usually have to find a way to make these scrappy too. 

The first step in bordering a quilt is to measure your quilt top to make sure you cut and piece borders that will fit. Now, with a wall hanging you probably can skip this step because it’s smaller and there’s less of a chance that it doesn’t measure the right size. Here’s how you measure your quilt tops:

  • Step 1: Measure your quilt top vertically in 3 places. On the left, in the middle and on the right. Add those numbers together and divide by 3 for the average. (See diagram below) That will be the length of the border strips for the sides.
  • Step 2: Attach the side border strips and then measure the quilt top horizontally in 3 places. Through the center and on the right and the left. This will be the length of the border strips for the top and bottom. (see diagram)
  • Step 3: Add the top and bottom borders:

You can use this method to get your quilt top to the size you need for your pieced border as well. For example, if your quilt top measures 61 x 61″ but you need it to be a number divisible by 4 to make a pieced border fit right, you can add borders to get your quilt top to 64 x 64″. Or, sometimes, I like to put a plain border between the quilt blocks and the pieced border as sort of a frame, like I did on my quilt, Scrappy North Stars:

The piano key border above and other simple ones are fairly easy to do and you see them on quilts quite a bit. But… here are some unique ones that I like to do.

On these quilts below, I actually took an element of the block, and turned it into a border.

For Trinkets, on the left, I took the color print unit from the quilt block and used that to border the quilt. For Star Wheels on the right, I took the black print unit framing the star blocks and turned that into a border with color prints:

Here are some fun pieced borders that are a bit unusual. I had fun coming up with these and I think they add a lot to these quilts. Most of the time, I will do really unusual borders on smaller quilts first, like wall hangings or table runners before trying it out on a large quilt.

These types of borders are also a great way to use up left over fabric from the project or to make the quilt bigger. 

So, that’s a wrap on this year’s block of the week sew-along. I hope you had fun whether you put it together into a wall hanging like mine or use the blocks in your own way.

Don’t forget to comment to get more entries into the drawing that takes place on September 19th!

***We have a winner! CONGRATS, Donna!!***

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2022 Block of the Week – Block 9

The final block in the series! All the patterns from block 1 through today are still free for you to download. These are easy to piece 6 1/2″ blocks. After you make all the blocks, including today’s block 9, you can use them any way you want. I will be presenting a finished wall hanging next week that features all the blocks and providing free instructions so you can make it yourself if you choose. If you just found my blog today, here are the links to the previous week’s posts: Week 1, Week 2, Week 3, Week 4, Week 5, Week 6, Week 7 and Week 8. OK… let’s get started on the last block!

2022 BOW Block 9 – Crosses & Losses

Now that you are an expert in HSTs, this block will be a breeze. This is basically a 4 patch block, with each “patch” made from HSTs. The instructions to make this block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 9.

The block made it’s first appearance, like many others in this sew along, in the late 1800s. Published first by the Ladies Art Company in 1897. It’s also known as Bouncing Betty (1933), Fox and Geese (1929) and Hour Glass (1932). It’s believed this block got its original name from the Bible, sometimes the only book that accompanied families in the 19th century to their new homes.

Scrap Quilting

Since the blocks we have been making are from our “scraps”, I think it’s time to talk scrap quilting! Scrap quilts can be planned or unplanned. Planned you say? Isn’t the definition of “scrappy quilt” a quilt that is made from scraps you just randomly pull from your stash? Yes, I call those “unplanned” scrap quilts. These BOW blocks are like that. I just picked scraps out of my stash to piece each of these blocks. But, you can carefully choose an array of color prints and make blocks from various combinations and that is what I call “planned” scrap quilts.

I will use a simple 3 color quilt as an example. To make it easy, let’s say this quilt takes a yard of each color fabric (not including the background) and has 12 blocks from each color. Here’s the 3 colors:

Using these colors above you can make a simple scrap quilt with each block using only one color (left) or you can mix the 3 colors within each block and use each color in different units of the blocks (right).

Both are nice scrap quilts, but the one on the right definitely reads as more scrappy, even though it’s the same 3 colors. You can make the quilt even scrappier, by adding in more colors to each of the ones above. Instead of buying a yard each of the 3 main colors, by 1/3 yards of those fabrics and then an additional 1/3 yard each 6 other color prints that coordinate.

To the dark blue fabric, I added a light blue and a purple. To the red fabric, I added pink and brown (both fabrics have red accents) and to the yellow fabric I added green and orange. So, now I have 9 colors which I can distribute through 36 blocks giving me 4 blocks from each color. Or I can mix and match those colors within each block.

Now, all of the sudden you have a real scrap quilt even though you planned it.

So how do you plan a scrap quilt using any one block pattern? First I choose a block design, then how many blocks I want and then how many colors I want to use. Then I make a diagram using drawings of the blocks. I number the colors I am using and then on a the printout of the blocks in the quilt, I write in the color number(s) in the units that make up the blocks. Then I note how many blocks I have from each combination to help me calculate how much of each fabric I need.

Here’s an example of one of my color maps showing that I am using nine different color prints that are numbered 1-9:

Once I have this done, then I can figure out how many pieces I need to cut from each color based on the diagram above. It does take a little time and math, but by doing this planning first, you end up with a beautiful scrap quilt.

So, I hope this gives you a bit of an idea on how to make a quilt pattern scrappy if it isn’t already that way. I think it’s fun to do and I just love the look of the “riot” of colors. You’d be surprised that colors you think would never look good in the same quilt, look great in a scrappy one!

Come back next week for the Block of the Week wrap-up where I will reveal my wall hanging made from these blocks and give you those instructions. Remember, comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2022 Block of the Week – Block 8

Here we are, up to block 8 of my 2022 BOW series. This has gone fast! All the patterns from block 1 through today are still free for you to download. These are easy to piece 6 1/2″ blocks. When we have all 9 blocks done, I will share how I piece them together to make a wall hanging and will share those directions. However, you can put the blocks together however you like! To get the previous patterns, click on the week shown here: Week 1, Week 2, Week 3, Week 4, Week 5, Week 6 and Week 7. OK… let’s get started!

2022 BOW Block 8 – Windmill

The instructions to make this block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 8. This block will require you to use an accurate 1/4″ seam allowance. I will cover the importance of the 1/4″ seam allowance as part of my top ten tips I like to share for quilters, beginners and advanced!

The earliest appearance I found for this block was in the LAC in 1897. A variation of it was called Turnstiles in a 1928 LAC publication. There are also many other variations of this block also entitled “Windmill” throughout the early 1900’s. Some of them I found were ones that could probably be easily made now as a paper-pieced block. Other names found for this block were: Modern Envelope, Old Windmill, Pinwheel, The Whirligig and Whirlwind.

Top Ten Quilting Tips

Here are my top ten quilting tips that I like to share for beginners and advance quilters alike. If you follow these tips, my hope is that it helps you to have a more relaxed quilting experience. Now, these are the tips I think are the most useful. Others may have tips they feel are the most important. Feel free to pick and choose!

 

3. Cutting. Whether you have a dedicated sewing room or you sew on the dining room table, make sure your cutting area is clear of items that can get in your way while you are cutting our your pieces. Also have your rulers close at hand.

LOL! Confession time… I had to clean up my cutting table to take this picture, so maybe I should practice what I preach! 

Related to cutting, be sure you have a sharp rotary blade to cut your pieces correctly and avoid injury. How will you notice if your blade has become dull? If you have to press down hard or you feel your blade skipping as you cut it’s time to change the blade. Usually after cutting out several large projects, you will need to replace the blade. This is for safety as well as for preservation of your fabric.

4. Organization. If your quilt has a lot of blocks made up of many pieces, organization is important. I’ve talked about it in other blog posts. My patterns usually have letters, and sometime a combo of letters and numbers, for each piece cut. I like to label a stack of pieces with masking or painters tape marked with the letter. If the piece is cut from several different colors, I keep them separated by color as well. Here’s an example below. 

 

7. Keep tools close. I suggest keeping tools you use frequently close by. I have a small shower soap dish attached to my sewing table where I keep my scissors I use for clipping seams and a small ruler for measuring seams and other items I may need.

10. Quilt layout. Finally, I recommend using a design wall or a large floor space to layout finished blocks. This makes it easier to arrange your blocks the way you want them before stitching them into rows and then into a quilt top. Otherwise, you might get all your rows stitched together and realize you have two blocks next to each other that you wished were not. This will save you a lot of “unsewing” time!

One Last Tip

For this block, you will be joining a half-square triangle square and two triangles. We did something similar for block 3 of the 2021 BOW and I made a mini video to show how to do this type of piecing. View this video to refresh your memory (fast forward to the 3:06 minute mark where I show joining a triangle and a square) and I hope it helps you making this block.

When the stitching together the pieces for the 4 units that make up this block:

Lay the two pieced triangle units right sides together, lining up the 90 degree corners first. I recommend stitching the diagonal seam with a scant 1/4″ seam (slightly under 1/4″), then evenly trim the resulting square to 3 1/2 x 3 1/2″. By doing this with all 4 units for this block, your completed block should measure 6 1/2 x 6 1/2″ when done.

Well, that’s it for this week. Come back next week for block 9 and some more tips and techniques.

Remember, comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2022 Block of the Week – Block 3

Here we are at week 3 of the 2022 Block of the Week already. Time flies! If you are just joining, here are the links to the previous blog posts for the first blocks: Week 1 and Week 2. So let’s get started on block 3!

2022 BOW Block 3 – Cats and Mice

This week’s block is good practice for the technique tip of the week I will be sharing. The stitch and flip method is used often in creating many interesting quilt blocks. For the blocks to come out measuring correctly, it’s important to practice and master this skill. I hope my tips will help you. So here is the block:

The instructions to make the block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 3.

Interesting block, however… how did it get this name, Cats and Mice? This block first appeared in a publication by the Ladies Art Company (often referred to by the initials LAC) where it appears it received it’s name. However, in investigating this quilt block name, there are several other pieced blocks also with this name, so who knows?

More about The LAC. It was established in 1889 when it began publishing catalogs of quilt block patterns. The majority of the patterns they published were of pieced blocks. LAC published advertisements in a variety of home, farm and ladies magazines and had a far reach because of this.

Tips and Technique of the Week – Stitch and Flip

This technique has also been referred to as “folded corners”, so if you see that term in a pattern it’s referring to this technique. The key to success in making blocks with stitch and flip is measuring as you go. Since the seam is stitched on the diagonal, take care in accurate stitching because pulling out seams on the bias can distort the seam and the block pieces.

Stitch and flip can be done on any unit with a 90 degree angle like squares, rectangles and even the 90 degree side of a triangle. Here’s my explanation on stitch and flip along with photos. In this example, I started with a 2 1/2″ black square and a tan 1 1/2″ square. Draw a line on the wrong side of the smaller square as a guide for stitching:

Next, lay the small square face down and line up its edges with the edges of the bigger black square as shown. I like to pin it in place for stitching so the small square does not shift. Then I stitch on the line.

Now comes the important part. Do not cut off the excess fabric in the seam allowance yet. I like to finger press the small square open and measure the unit to make sure it still measures 2 1/2 x 2 1/2″.

If I determine it measures correctly, I can trim off the excess fabric in the seam allowance and take the unit to the iron for pressing. When you press these units, make sure not to iron back and forth on the seam so you don’t distort it.

You can repeat this step as many times as needed. The Cats and Mice block has units where all 4 corners of the block have stitch and flip corners. Some block units may only have stitch and flip corners on 1 or 2 corners. And if you make flying geese units one by one, you are using the stitch and flip method there too! 

Here is a mini video tutorial I did on stitch and flip several years ago:

Well, that’s it for this week. Enjoy creating this fun block and join me again next week. Remember, comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2022 Block of the Week – Block 2

Welcome back to the 2022 Block of the Week! If you are just joining the fun, you can go to this link: Welcome to the Block of the Week! to start at the beginning. We are now on to block 2 of this BOW. 

2022 BOW Block 2 – Lady of the Lake

This week’s block has a lot of half-square triangle squares in it, so you’ll get a lot of practice with those. After I show you the block, I will cover some tips on making half-square triangle squares. These units are also referred to as HSTs so if you see that in a pattern, you’ll know what it is. So, here is the block:

The instructions to make this block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 2. This block is thought to be named after an 1810 poem by Sir Walter Scott. Men and women who traveled west in the 19th century were great fans of his poetry and the poem by this name. So, to pay tribute, this patchwork block was named for the poem and first published in the 1820s.

Because this block has a lot of units and a lot of seams, precise and accurate 1/4″ stitching is important for it to measure correctly. Below, I’ll talk about different ways to make HSTs and the importance of measuring all your units before piecing them into a block.

Tip of the Week – Half-Square Triangle (HSTs) Squares

Common Method:

There are a lot of different methods to make HSTs. The first I will cover is one step up from the traditional method of joining two triangles. This common method (as I call it) will give you two HSTs at a time.

For this method, start with 2 squares that measure 7/8″ larger than the finished size of your HST unit. Finished size refers to the size of the unit minus the seam allowance (how it measures when it is stitched into a block). For example, if your HST finished size is 2″, then you need to cut your squares 2 7/8 x 2 7/8″. Then when you make the HST, it will measure 2 1/2″ with the seam allowances and 2″ finished.

Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of one of the squares, then lay the two squares right sides together and stitch 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line. It’s important to have an accurate 1/4″ or a scant (just under). If your seam is too large, your HST will come out too small. Cut the unit apart on the drawn line:

Press open the two halves and you have two HSTs. 

If you need to, you can trim your HSTs to measure the correct size. Just make sure to lay the ruler’s 45 degree line on the diagonal seam.

There’s a cool tool that allows you to trim the HSTs before you press them open. Then you only have to make two cuts instead of four. It’s call the Triangle Square Up Ruler by Quilt in a Day.

You simply choose the size your unit should measure (with seam allowance) and line up that line on the ruler with the seam on your unit. Trim the two sides, press open and you have your HST!

Alternate Methods

Method 1 – Makes 4 HSTs:

Determine the size of your HST you want (including seam allowance), divide that number by .64. Round up to the nearest 1/8″.  Then cut 2 squares of different colors that size. For example, for 2 1/2″ HSTs:

       2 1/2″ / .64 = 3.906, round up to 4″

Lay the two squares right sides together matching up raw edges so they are completely one on top of the other. Pin in place. Sew 1/4″ around all 4 sides of the square unit (see my finger pointing in last photo).

Cut the sewn square diagonally as shown and then press open each section for 4 HSTs.

Method 2 – Makes 8 HSTs:

This method is great when you have a scrap quilt that has lots and lots of HSTs.

Start with 2 squares that are each 2 times the size of the HST you are making plus 1 3/4″. For an HST that measures 1 1/2 x 1 1/2″ , here is the calculation:

                1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ = 2 1/4″

                2 1/4″ + 1 3/4″ = 4″.

Draw two diagonal lines on the wrong side of one of the squares. Place the squares right sides together with the square with the drawn lines on top so they are visible. Pin. Sew a 1/4″ on each side of each drawn line.

Cut the unit apart evenly into 4 squares and then cut each square on the diagonal line.

Press open and you have 8 HSTs!

So those are a few of the different ways you can make HSTs. It’s fun to try new methods once in a while. Enjoy making block 2! 

Remember, comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Welcome to Block of the Week!

Welcome! It’s time to start the 2022 Block of the Week project. If this is your first time visiting my blog, my block of the week project (or BOW as I call it) is made up of nine 6 1/2 x 6 1/2″ blocks. I release one each week for the next several weeks, starting today. You will get a link to the PDF instructions for free for each block. On the tenth week, I will provide free instructions for a setting for the blocks to make a wall hanging. You can use my idea to set the blocks or feel free to use your blocks however you like. I will also share some quilting tips that will be useful when making these blocks. So, how about we get started?

2022 BOW Block 1 – The Railroad

The instructions to make the block are found here: 2022 BOW Block 1. The block is made up of half-square triangle squares and four-patch units. Fairly simple units to piece even if you are a beginner.

Like a lot of traditional quilt blocks, this one also has been known by other names. Some of the other names for the block are the Underground Railroad, Jacob’s Ladder, Stepping Stones and Wagon Tracks. This block pattern dates back to the 18th century but was first officially published in 1884.

Tip of the Week – Strip Sets

Four-patch blocks, like those in the Railroad block, are one of the block types that can be pieced by starting with strip sets. What are strip sets? Strip sets are made from joining two or more long strips on their lengthwise sides. You can use width of fabric strips (40-44″ long) if you need a lot of pieces cut for your project, but I prefer to cut those in half to 20-22″ long. It’s easier for your strip sets to distort if you are using longer strips. The strips in this week’s pattern are 17″ long. 

To make a strip set, start by laying two strips right sides together and pin in a few places:

The when it’s time to stitch, do not pull on them or push them through the machine as you are joining them with the 1/4″ seam. Just gently guide them along. Doing otherwise can distort your seam.

Finally, press the joined strips open. Make sure to press and not iron. It is important not to distort the seam of the joined strips. If you iron along the seam instead of pressing, you run the risk of stretching the fabric or the seam or both.

If you are joining more than two strips together, alternate which end you start at when stitching. This also helps to limit distortion of the whole strip set. The diagram below shows what I am talking about:

To be safe, after adding each additional strip to a strip set, finger press open and measure to be sure your seams are accurate and the size of the strip set measures correctly. For example, if you are joining two 1 1/2″ wide strips, when pressed open, the strip set should then measure 2 1/2″ wide. Adding another 1 1/2″ strip on will then make the set measure 3 1/2″ wide. It’s important to keep the width size accurate, otherwise the segments you cut from the strip set will not measure correctly.

So that’s block 1 of the 2022 Block of the Week and the tip of the week. I hope you enjoyed this and will join me in the following weeks!

Comment or ask questions throughout this series. At the end, I will have a grand prize giveaway. This will include my book, two of my newer patterns, some fat quarters and sewing scissors!

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

More Scrap Quilting Tips for Fun!

Last week I talked about quilting with strips and scraps and shared some links to some history, including a look at the quilts of Gee’s Bend and crazy quilting. Here’s the post if you missed it. This week, I thought I’d continue with the scrap quilting fun by showing you two ways I scrap quilt. Making what I call “planned” scrap quilts and true scrap quilts. I’ll show you examples with my quilts and explain how I either plan a scrap quilt or just “fly by the seat of my pants”! 

How to Plan a Scrap Quilt

Sounds kind of funny planning a scrap quilt, right? Well, I know some quilters do not like the complete chaos of a scrap quilt and want to still have some harmony among their fabrics. Here’s an example of how I teach people how they can turn any quilt into a scrap quilt.

I use a simple 3 color quilt as an example. To make it easy, let’s say this quilt takes a yard of each color fabric (not including the background) and has 12 blocks from each color. Here’s the 3 colors:

Here’s what a quilt would look like with those 3 colors in separate blocks.

Pretty quilt, huh?

One way to make a scrap quilt from just these three fabrics is to mix and match the colors within the blocks. For example, make some blocks gold/blue and some blocks red/gold and some blue/red:

This makes it a little scrappier! However, you can turn this even scrappier by substituting three 1/3 yard cuts for each yard of fabric from above. I’ve done that here:

To the dark blue fabric, I added a light blue and a purple. To the red fabric, I added pink and brown (both fabrics have red accents) and to the yellow fabric I added green and orange. So, now I have 9 colors which I can distribute through 36 blocks giving me 4 blocks from each color. Or I can mix and match those colors within each block.

The quilt on the left is scrappier than the 3 color quilts from above. And the quilt on the right is even scrappier when you mix the colors within each block. So that’s the basics to a planned scrappy quilt.

Color Mapping

So how do you plan a scrap quilt using any one block pattern? First choose a block design, then how many blocks you want and then how many colors you want to use. Then I make a diagram using a drawing of the block. I call this method “color mapping”.  I number the colors I am using and then on a printout of the blocks in the quilt, I place the color number(s) in units of the blocks. Then I note how many blocks from each combination.

Here’s an example of one of my color maps showing that I am using nine different color prints that are numbered 1-9:

Once I have this done, then I can figure out how many pieces I need to cut from each color based on the diagram above. It does take a little time and math, but by doing this planning first, you end up with a beautiful scrap quilt. My Scrappy North Stars is an example of one planned this way (although I had more than 9 different fabrics in this one):

Unplanned Scrappy and Color Fun

Now for the unplanned scrap quilt or what I call “chaos”. That’s when I sit beside my tub of assorted strips and make one block after another. As I am making each block, I put them up on a design wall and try to avoid putting the same color strip into a block, at least not in the same place. The two quilts below are examples of some unplanned scrappies.

CrissCross Cabin Blooms
Hugs & Kisses

Yes, I do have colors repeated, but when that happens, it’s generally a different print from one in another block.

As you can see from some of the quilts I have shown in this post, I’m not afraid of putting interesting color prints together. That’s the fun of scrap quilts. You may think certain colors do not belong together, but in a scrap quilt you can get away with it!

Don’t be afraid to play with all different color fabrics and prints in a scrap quilt, whether it’s a planned scrap quilt or an unplanned scrap quilt. You’ll often be surprised with the results!

I hope you enjoyed this scrap quilting discussion and a look into my process. Comment or ask any questions you may have below and you will be entered into a drawing for my Scrappy North Stars quilt pattern (shown above)! **We have a winner… congrats, Ariel!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

Building a Scrap Quilt

In early September, I did a post on quilt fabrics and considering color contrast when picking out that fabric. Here is a link to the post if you would like a review: Fabrics and Color Contrast in Quilting. Now I am going to talk about building a scrap quilt after you have chosen your fabrics. The fun thing about making a scrap quilt, is you can do it with just about any quilt pattern you like. It works really well with one block quilts. So let’s get started on some of my tips on building a scrap quilt.

Simple One Block Quilt Scrappy

You can actually turn any quilt pattern into a scrap quilt with a little thought. I’ll use a simple 3 color quilt as an example. To make it easy, let’s say this quilt takes a yard of each color fabric (not including the background) and has 36 blocks. Here’s the 3 colors:

If you make 12 blocks from each color above, it will make a really pretty quilt. It will be a little bit scrappy as you will have blocks made from 3 different colors. Here’s what it would look like:

Nice looking quilt, right? But what if you wanted to make it scrappier? Easy to do! Take those 3 fabrics above and, instead of buying a yard of each, split those yards into 1/3 yards. For example, instead of 1 yard of red, buy 1/3 yard red, 1/3 yard of a coordinating pink and 1/3 yard of a coordinating brown. Do the same for the blue and the yellow fabrics. You’ll end up with something like this:

Now instead of 12 blocks each color, make 4 blocks from each color. This is what your quilt could look like:

Same quilt, but now it’s scrappier even though each block is only made from one color.

Scrappiness Within Blocks

Another way to make an interesting scrap quilt is to take a block and put several different colors into it. The block below is one that I am going to use as an example to demonstrate scrappiness within a block:

As. you can see, there are a lot of opportunities to make this block more than two colors. One way is to choose another color besides the green and also shift where the black accent fabric is used. For the green and black block, I shifted the black to the center and outer pieces and then I added in a block with red and black with the black accent fabric opposite from where it is in the other block:

This makes it a bit scrappier, but it’s still more uniform than a true scrap quilt. Now look what happens when we add more colors in and alternate the black accent in every other block:

Definitely scrappier! If you really want to have even more fun, how about putting 2 colors in a block with the black accent:

Now we’re getting scrappier!

Finally, look what happens when you take each element of the block and use a different color? This is what I call “unplanned” scrappy. This is when you sit next to your scrap bin and just pull out different colors for each part of the block. In the example below, I still kept the black accent in some capacity because I always like to have a bit of continuity in my scrap blocks.

The block on the left has only the center with the accent color. The block on the right uses the accent color in the center and on the outside. Either way, they’re definitely scrappier than those I have already shown.

Some Scrapping Tips

Tip #1: When you decide to make a scrap quilt that is not completely random, planning helps. Make a copy of the finished quilt from the pattern and color it using colored pencils to represent the fabrics you want to use. You can also do this with individual blocks.

Tip #2: To help keep fabrics organized while you are deciding the color makeup of blocks, label the fabrics with a number. For example, if you have 9 different fabrics you are going to use, label the fabrics 1 through 9. Then you can label your pattern diagram with the color numbers for ease in cutting out your pieces.

Tip #3: Have your scraps and your smaller cuts of fabric organized by color family. This will make it so much easier for you to find the perfect fabric to complete each block. Here’s a few of my tubs with separate colors:

So, that’s all for this week. I hope this was an informative post for you. Scrap quilting can be fun. I love to see what I can do with a block using different colors. The important thing is to have fun! 

Leave a comment or ask a question below to be entered into a drawing for my newest quilt pattern, Star Wheels.

The drawing will be on Monday, October 11th. **We have a winner! Congrats, Sue Singer!**

Happy Scrapping!
Deanne

Block of the Week – Block 9

Here we are! The last block in my 2021 BOW. These 9 weeks have gone fast. I hope you have enjoyed making the first 8 blocks and you will like this one too. If you are just finding this BOW project, you can access the previous block instructions and blog posts by clicking on each week: Week 1, Week 2, Week 3, Week 4, Week 5, Week 6 , Week 7, Week 8. This weeks tip of the week will actually be many mini tips for quilters based on some of the things I like to do to make my quilting experience relaxing and fun. Hopefully you will find a tip or two helpful to you too! As with the last 8 weeks, there will be a drawing for one of my patterns. The winner will be chosen from the comments and questions you leave below. So now that all that is out of the way, lets see the last block!

Block 9 – Bloom

Find the PDF instructions for the block here: 2021 BOW Block 9.

This block has a lot of elements in it that previous blocks in this series had, so you should be able to make this one using the knowledge you have gained making the others. So now onto the time saving tips for quilters.

Time Saving Tips for Quilters

Tip #1 – Always Buy Extra

My quilt patterns use the assumption of 40″ usable width of fabric (as I discussed in last week’s post), but some patterns may not. If you are not sure if the pattern you are buying allows for selvage, cutting errors or pre-washing fabric (if you do that), always buy a bit more than recommended. I usually ad about 1/8 of a yard to what is needed. I don’t pre-wash my fabric, but I have made cutting errors… a lot! You do not want to get to the end of your piece of fabric and still have pieces you need cut from it.

Tip #2 – Test Blocks

One of the things I recommend as a time saver is to read through the pattern you are planning to work on and create a “test” block out of scrap fabric. This is a great way to find out if you understand the instructions! It’s also a way to “audition” color choices.

Here’s one of my test blocks:

After the test block has served it’s purpose in helping me understand the pattern and make color choices, what can I do with it?  I decided to take these blocks and rummage through my scrap stash to make mini quilts for friends and family! Here’s a candle mat I made from the test block:

This is a great way to make a gift for the non-quilter in your life. They will love their little gift and you will not let a scrap of fabric go to waste!

Tip #3 – Label Cut Pieces

This may seem like a no brainer but to keep yourself organized, you should label the pieces you cut and organize them in stacks based on which part of the quilt they construct. This is especially helpful if you cut all the pieces for your project in the beginning. I like to get all the cutting done at once and it allows me to make sure I have enough fabric. If I cut in stages, by the time I figure out I’m short of fabric, it may be sold out!

Above is an example of a project cut out and ready to go. Each stack represents a group of blocks made from the same color prints. This keeps me organized and I avoid picking up the wrong piece and stitching it into a unit. The less “unsewing” I have to do, the better!

Tip #4 – Stitch Ripping

Speaking of “unsewing”, I have a tip on ripping out stitches in a way to hopefully avoid damaging your fabric. Here’s how I do it:

I cut a stitch every 4 or 5 stitches in the middle of the seam and then gently pull apart the pieces.

The seam comes apart fairly easy and then all you have to do is finish cutting the threads on each end of the unit.

Tip #5 – Backstitching

This may seem like a simple tip, but you’d be surprised how many people skip it. Back stitch to lock your stitched seam at the beginning and end of a seam. 

The unit on the left has back stitching at the beginning and end of the seam. The one on the right does not. The next photo shows how the seam can easily separate, which can cause your quilt to come apart at the seams … literally!

The unit that has the back stitching is nice and secure, even with seams pressed open.

Backstitching can be done whether you are just stitching one unit at a time or you are stitching a chain of units. It only takes a brief second to backstitch at the beginning and end of each unit in a chain.

So that’s it! Those are some of my favorite tips to share. I hope you learned something. Share a tip with me in the comments below and your name will be entered into a drawing for my pattern, Twinkling Log Cabin.

This is one of my older scrappy quilt patterns, but it’s still one of my favorites! The drawing will be on Monday, June 14th. That is also the day that I will reveal the wall hanging I made from these blocks and share those instructions. **We have a winner! Congrats, Gail S.!**

So, until next week,

Happy Quilting!
Deanne

2021 Block of the Week – Block 6

Welcome back to my 2021 Block of the Week. We are already at block #6! If you are new to this series, you can find the posts for the previous blocks here: Week 1, Week 2, Week 3, Week 4 and Week 5. Like the other weeks, there will be a drawing from the blog post commenters for one of my patterns. Your name will also be entered into the grand prize drawing at the end of the series (grand prize information in the week 1 post).

Block 6 – Rolling Star

I like the block for this week because of the way the light tan background illuminates the star portion of the block. You can also improvise and change the tan to a black print and change the colors for the star pieces to bright colors. There are many fun options.

Click here for block assembly instructions: 2021 BOW Block 6.

Here are some of the ways to make this block look different. First, change the tan fabric to black:

Next, add in another color instead of the tan print on the outside, then shift colors around. If you alternate the two block color combos below, that would make a striking quilt!

The key is to have fun! Now onto the quilting tip of the week. Achieving crisp points which will be very helpful for this block with lots of points.

Crisp Points

We have all done this. You’re piecing a quilt with a lot of stars or flying geese units. When you’re all done, your points are cut off!

Notice the point on the left is cut off compared to the point on the right. This is one of the things that dogs a lot of quilters. I find that many times this is due to impatience (rushing through chain piecing) and not being being aware of where your points are in relation to the seam you are stitching. So, here I will share some tips to avoid blocks with cut off points. I am using flying geese units in my example, but the concept will apply to any unit with points.

When you flip over a flying geese unit like shown below and you will see a point created by the seams of the unit.   

Paying attention to where this point is while you are stitching is an important key for getting crisp points.

Notice, in the photo below, I have pinned the pieces so they won’t shift. As I am stitching I keep an eye on the point. I want to keep my stitching above it. Hopefully, if I made my geese unit correctly, the top of the point is 1/4″ from the edge of the unit.

I am using a pin to show you where the point is as I am stitching.

In the  photo below you can see my needle is going to pass the stitching above the point but still be an accurate 1/4″ seam (see where I am pointing with the pin). You want the stitching to stay above but not too far. If your stitching touches the very tippy top of the point, that is still OK. The photo on the far right shows my seam done, passing right over the point.

When I turn the piece over to the right side, you can see that the point is nice and crisp!

Like I said earlier, the key to getting these crisp points is to make sure when you piece your units that have points, the unit has the correct seam allowance. 1/4″ from point tip to edge of the unit:

In some blocks, you may need to join two units with points. Here’s a few tips on doing that and keeping the points crisp. Once again, I will use flying geese units in the example.

When pinning the units together, you want to start by lining up the points of each unit and pinning there. Here is how I line up the points. I lay the units right sides together and then pull the top unit down to get the point lined up with the point of the unit below. I slowly inch the top piece back, eyeing the point the whole time.

Pin the center first to keep the points from shifting and then pin the rest of the unit before stitching.

Follow the stitching instructions I shared above, stitch the unit keeping your seam above the point. Since you took such care in aligning the points, the stitching should be above the point on the back unit to.

You can see in the photos of each side below where the stitching line passes above the point:

And after pressing the unit open once stitched, flip it over to the right side and see that the points are matched!

So those are my tips on how to achieve crisp points. It may take some practice, but you will get there! Hopefully you will not have to use your seam ripper too much.

That’s it for this week. Leave your comments or questions below and you will be entered into a drawing for my pattern, Twilight Desert. This pattern will give you a lot of practice on achieving crisp points!

The drawing for this pattern will be on Monday, May 24th. Good luck and see you next week! **We have a winner… Congrats, Carla!**

Happy Quilting!
Deanne